Kneeling pads

I need to glue kneeling pads in my kavlar canoe for various trips this summer requiering partage and I’m wandering what is the best way to glue those pads in!

Contact cement
Cut the pad(s)s to the shape you want.

Place in canoe.

Outline the placement(s) with some sort of erasable/washable pencil.

Put contact cement within the outline and also on the pads. Wait until tacky (15 minutes).

Place pad(s) carefully on the outline(s). Press all over.

Put something heavy on the pad(s) until the glue sets.

Dap in the red can

– Last Updated: May-13-10 8:49 PM EST –

They sell it at Home Depot or Lowes. Trace the area with a pencil, put contact cement on the pads first, let it dry, then put contact cement on the hull, then go back and put a second coat on the pads. The pads will absorb the first coat. Then when both surfaces are dry, start at one edge and carefully roll the pad into place. Don't try to pick it up and do it over. Once it sticks, it's stuck.

I go outside the pencil marks on the hull just a tad with the contact cement. Also, it's a good idea to practice "rolling" the pad into place before you put any contact cement down, just to make sure you've got the hang of it before it counts.

You may also want to use a hair dryer to help dry the contact cement. Don't get it too close or too hot. You may also use the hair dryer to heat the cement up just a bit before joining the surfaces. This helps to re-activate the cement just before bonding.

Remember to have fun. Outfitting is very rewarding.

thin coats…
AND…the key to everything drying thoroughly before reheating is to keep each brushed on layer of cement THIN! Many of us usually do two layers. Most of the work is done by the hair dryer/heat gun on low. I’ve done it numerous times on royalex!! be honest I haven’t done it on kevlar so…


Self adhesive
or you can use these.

what ever you do be sure to clean the surface well with alcohol before gluing.

One last suggestion
A fellow who should know (the builder of DIB rafts) long ago told me that contact cement should be brushed on in only one direction. I forgot the reasoning for this, but he got his start with RubberCrafters and Rubber Fabricators, so I believe him.


Thanks Guys!!
I’m weary of the self-adhesive stuff!! I’m going to do the Contact cement; mark the spot, cut the pad a little bigger than the marking, thin coat of glue on boat and pad, brushed in one direction… why, we don’t know but heh…why not, dry with the blow dryer a little and put another thin coat of glue, and roll the pad in place, after practice that is!!, and Voila!! Did I miss something?? I have to find a place to buy the pads as well!! Any suggestions??

One thing off

Cut the pads first then trace their outlines. And, go a smidge beyond your marks with the contact cement.

Also, I don’t know what boat you’re putting these in or how it fits you. But, it’s good to get the pads up into the chines and not just on the bottom. That way when you’re in your stance, there is pad between the outside of you knee and the chine. But, if the boat just fits you now, stance wise, don’t get too thick a pad. Another option is to bevel out the pads where the outside of the knee contacts the chine/pad. Sometimes this is necessary to make or keep a good boat fit after pad installation.

Thanks Clarion!

Instead of gluing them in…
Can you velcro them in? That way you can remove them for cleaning or drying when they get wet or use them for pillows when camping, etc.

Silicon caulk
holds them well and just peels off when or if you need to remove it