A couple weeks ago I asked about deck plates for my "new" TW Special. One of the original ones had been replaced with a heavy walnut one that I didn't want to keep.
I got some great answers. openboater of Vermont Canoes graciously offered to send me one he had salvaged off of another. Mintjulep suggested inexpensive cutting boards. And c2g suggested Kydex.
I opted for the Kydex. I hated to pic into Rob's parts pile and I only saw the cutting board option after ordering the more expensive kydex.
I'm really pleased with the way the Kydex turned out. It presents a lower, sleeker, less obtrusive profile than the original rx plates. I also added grap handles just behind the plate because the thinner kydex wouldn't support carrying the boat.
You can't tell from the pics but I sanded and coated the hardware with liquid plastic. I didn't like the way the way all the shiny screw heads made my beautiful girl look like she had way too many facial piercings. Now you don't even notice them, unless there's flash photography.
Here are a few pics
and made my first yoke
this TW just had a straight thwart
Thanks for the help and great suggestions
Not bad at all.
Over time and UV exposure, the yoke and grabs should darken nicely and look like they’ve always been there. I’m kinda surprised you didn’t put drain holes in the deck plates and you need grommets for the through-holes! Gonna add grit to the deck paint?
She’s a fine-looking boat. You’ve done her proud.
actually I did add drainage
I notched a small “V” in the top of the stem just below the deck plate. It drains nicely. It probably doesn’t show up in my bad photography.
This is the first Mad River I’ve had that didn’t have the modern deckplate setup that your Independence has. That setup allows for drainage. This older 1980 setup did not. But I subtly changed that.
I won’t add any grit to the porch paint. I like it smooth like original. I can’t really picture adding grit for any specific reason. It would be a tough kneeling and hard on dry bags, dry suits and every other manner of gear. It would be hard to clean. Even for poling I wouldn’t want it. There are plenty of times I don’t want to have to lift a foot just to reposition it.
Looks like a clean installation.
How thick is the Kydex, and where did you get it?
I used .080 thick Kydex in the past for knife sheathes and pistol holsters, but that looked thicker.
Very nice work. Looks great.
BTW, fiberglass with the cheap polystyrene resin from auto supply stores does not stick to Kydex. I have used it in the past to thermoform molds which I overlaid with glass and resin to make boat parts. Works pretty good.
The decks and yoke look great. You do good work.
it’s .125 thick
I’ll have to check my work email tomorrow and post where I got it.
Once made a kit clavichord where the
designer called for many visible brass screws to substitute for clamps. Now, that would look nice, wouldn’t it?
I improvised clamps any way I could, and the result is an instrument that (if I sold it) would go for ~10k.
But screwheads on a canoe aren’t that bad.
Good work Clarion!
And I seem to remember that McCrea had a protocol for darkening SS hardware. Check with him.
Yep. That looks similar to the plates on my 1980 Explorer, ceptin’ they were Royalex.