Why I enjoy winter surfing more, because there are no crowds and none of this nonsense.
Part of me getting back into longboat surfing is that, during warmer weather surf, my intent is to seek the more inaccessible reef and point breaks that can be had with a longboat. Already have an offshore reef break. I am been scouting a rocky point break. Just waiting for the right waves and tide to show.
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Yes Los Angeles sucks. I just spent the last month in Oregon, Utah and the Bay area. I’m looking forward to getting some ocean time tomorrow morning. It’s cold here for June (highs in the low sixties and no sun, just eternal marine layer, and onshore winds, so I’m hoping there won’t be crowds out tomorrow AM Not very good surf conditions, but that’s why god created waveskis.
So, I wondered whether that is a “localized” culture… Where surf mayhem has just taken over a locale and every surfer feels it’s for him/herself? I’ve been surfing a beach (beginner) break south of Boston a lot this past couple of years because repair work to the harbor tunnels has made my homebreak (rocky reef) on the north side of Boston a real driving nightmare to get to. Even when the beach break gets a bit crowded, I rarely see folks dropping/snaking in on a wave. When it happens, it usually a beginner. These folks eventually figure it out, or get talked to.
Off topic, I just finally located a pre-owned Cobra Revision (Strike plus) after 6 or 7 years of looking. Will hopefully pick it up next week. the Revision (13’x26") can carry much bigger paddle surfers than me. So, it will be a good guest surf craft for visitors or newbies looking to do some Boston based surfing.
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I didn’t know Boston surfing was a thing. I see a good amount of surfers out at North Hampton Beach and Jenness Sands but the waves never seem very big.
I started surfing in the 1960s and moved to Huntington Beach in 1972 because the waves were better. Combat surfing has always been a waste of time. People get territorial and act stupid. Locals only is one of the greatest jokes of all time.
I have had some great days in lesser known spots and places like Kauai. Just find a path with a few cars and check it out. Being welcomed in the water is a great experience.
Statistically speaking
while surfers are freaking
about those crowds in “their” waves,
White pointers impacting
pinniped pods reacting
oft choose to chomp board loner’s legs.
They were dukin’ it out at the Cape May break,
two tons of toothy punch seemed to separate the flakes.
Yeah, there are NO surfing spots in Boston… 
I used to go up to Jenness and Hampton quite a bit. Believe it, in the summer with hurricanes coming up the gulf stream. And, after a typical nor’easter, there are some big waves to ride. These days, I limit myself to head high max (6-7’). Don’t have the stamina for the bigger waves anymore.
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I think it’s no so much localized culture but a reaction to high population density and the growth of the numbers of people who started surfing during the pandemic. Long ago Malibu had a lot of “Enforcers” who kept the kooks and wankers away from the bigger waves. I think they have all aged out of the sport or just overwhelmed by the numbers. We have some breaks where similar stuff happens on San Diego Coast, but I just avoid those spots, there are so many good places it’s not worth bothering with the Iconic Named Breaks.
I finally got out this morning, I took my paddle board because it was glassy when I left the house and by the time I hit the beach there were already 10 kt side shores and stronger on shores, I was the only fool out in the chop and wind trying to paddle a surf sup, I did a couple of miles and got lots of exercise. So surf quality was about 1/10 but it did feel good to get back on the water.
Put too many rats in a cage and they will kill each other.
my time up on a rental board lasted less than 2 seconds on the baby waves, there was no etiquette involved. Just paddle away from the floundering tourist at Waikiki because I am that clueless guy and the rental boards are big and heavy.
Total newbies get dispensation usually, especially on beach breaks on small wave days!
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In fairness, Malibu beaches are the closest and best surf access for a few million people in the northern LA area. LA has lots of trash people in general and plenty of surfer/skater trash too, but this is just what happens when you have a 12 million person metropolis. California lacks culture in general too (even though many locals vehemently deny it). They just don’t know what a polite, educated society looks like. We have abysmal schools unless you’re in a wealthy area.
I drive by this exact beach a couple times a month and on a good wave day it’s busy but not crazy. This was on a big wave day and we haven’t had many lately, so every Tom Dick and Harry probably came out (emphasis on dick I guess).
Also anyone who lives within a 30 minute drive of this beach is exceedingly wealthy (like $2m buys a tear down house) so the level of entitlement and narcissisism is also likely to be very high.
Overall this is not representative of the norm
That’s reassuring. Have to say, whenever I get out to the west coast, it’s usually before the summer season. The breaks I have been to had folks but were not crazily packed, like in that video.
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Thank you! Reminds me that I am looking forward to having lunch tomorrow with my son’s family – his wife, two toddler daughters and two dogs! Look forward to animated fun with my grandaughters! LOL!
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One surfer, one wave… There is real danger associated with a surf board fin going at speed…
Death is rare, but nasty lacerations from surf fins are more common than the average person in the surf is aware of. That fin is no joke.
Be safe out there.
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As a surfer in my youth, those skegs can be quite deadly. I never got run over or ran anybody else over, but I have seen it happen. My last board had 5 skegs, it could have really sliced and diced somebody.
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