Hello all! I have several makes and models of SOT’s. They get lots of use! atleast 1 trip a week most of the time more. All are two years old or less now. I started noticing a little water in the hull when loading up at the end of the day; so i started investigating. Filled the hulls with a water hose and found that around nearly all of the rivets were leaking somewhat. Not too much to be worried about, but would like to know if any if you guys have a fix?
marine goop
Clean them and also a small area
around them.
Then roughen them and the area around them with 100 grit sand paper.
Then use a dab of G-flex epoxy over them…
You could try a dab of Lexel over them, but depending on where each one is, it is liable to wear off quicker than the G-flex
Jack L
drill out
replace with new rivets, rivet washers andmunder and over the new rivet
http://www.shop3m.com/3m-marine-adhesive-sealant-5200-05203-3-oz-white.html
or clean surface, roughup sand rivet, adjacent area then apply 3M as a dome over the rivet.
The 3M takes a while to set up maybe more than a week.
Advantage over the West epoxy would be flexibility.
This 3M works on pelican boxes as a setting compound for thru the box nylon fittings. Pelican boxes are more rigid than Tupperware hulls so the process like Gflex is experimental
Datakoll -don’t give wrong advice
I would never drill out a rivet that is tight and doing it’s job.
All the Op has to do is clean the area and use a dab of any water proof sealant
Guy
hey
grub grap on your leaking rivets n I’ll drillum out replace with tight marine stainless over a wad of 3M.
lazy dude lazy no pride in your work. deplorabble
If any leaking a lot … yes replace .
If you think one or two are leaking a lot, which is usually the case you can clip off the pad-eye inchworm thing with bolt cutters and put on new blind rivets. Use a good layer of silocone bath tub sealer in the hole and where the rivet and padeye will seat. Use a good rivet gun to get the rivet very tight.
trying to seal over the top of the rivet and paddeye does not work because of the poor adhereance of the sealant and the flexibility of the plastic in use and as it heats an cools. The www.sit-on-topkayaking.com website has instructions for replacing rivets.
I guess you have never used G-flex
epoxy.
If the rivet is tight, it would be stupid to drill it out.
I am guessing that it is an aluminum rivet(s) since that is what most of the canoe and kayak people use.
jack L
Ha !
At least he can spell, can formulate sentences, and paragraphs and make sense, which is a lot more then you can do.
I suggest that you shouldn’t be so lazy in the use of the English language.
Jack L
Actually I have …
I use Gflex to repair wave skis and started to use it for backing and laminating traditional bows I am shaping. It is great stuff, a thin layer is really strong, and flexible. It sticks to almost any greasy wood, and will stick to many synthetic polymers, but not all, polystyrene for example.
My experience might be different because I am using the eyelets and rivets on thigh straps and seat on surf kayak where there is a lot of force applied to the rivet, resulting in deformation of the plastic. Gflex is good stuff, but the plastic near the patch deforms and over time it leaks. Maybe overlapping coats of Gflex would work, will try it out.
drilling rivets n
replacing with new rivets bedded down in 3M or god forbid Gflex isnot rocket science and not stupid.
OP sez his rivet holes leak. Not replacing the rivets is stupid. Bandaging leaking rivets with god forbid Gflex is stupid.
umgah
ngbit dorkna whuk
overlapping
coats of Gflex.
Rivets leak
In your own words and I quote" not enough to worry about" . If they don’t leak enough to make you hog in the water why bother? Like so many have said, you can use a silicone to shore up the worst ones. I use marine grade silicone with an adhesive on any additional or repair hardware with great success. Remember, less is more! Minimal sanding and a very thin bead of sealant where the rivet body meets the hull. A small dab of sealant right over the rivet stem, wipe with a damp cloth to help push the silicone into the crevices and your good to go. Any gear I carry in the hold goes in a dry bag it doesn’t really add extra weight (ounces), gives piece of mind, and is an insurance policy against the unthinkable.
Ditto roanguy’s…leave in but clean
around and add Goop or G-flex.
Additionally, stainless rivets…
– Last Updated: Aug-21-15 12:53 PM EST –
...can pull right through soft materials and split the mounting flanges on hatch rims. Unless you're willing to stop short of "popping" the rivets, cut them off and grind the cut ends smooth, they're bad idea!