Hello John,
I may be one of your ‘huckleberries’. I’ve been in the ‘Breaks’ three times, paddled the length twice. The last time was 2014. There were two outfitters in Fort Benton. Twice I used ’ glenn@uppermissouri.com ’ Upper Missouri River Guides
I think John was retiring from pick ups or vehicle trans port. Hopefully if Glenn is still around, he also wrote the book of what to see and do along the way. Buy his book.
I reccommend you include a few more days for your trip. Yes, you can do it in 4 or 5 days, but that is too fast. The Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument is a hiking trip, you just use a canoe to get there.
Strong recommendations for the tail end of the high water melt season, first or second week of July, plus or minus. BLM is a strong source for info, I seem to remember 15 or so camp areas, along the way, Fire rings and pit toilets The 20 mile stretch from Fort Benton to Loma is farms, many skip this and launch at Coal Bank. I do not recommend the launch at Coal Banks, you miss too much Launch at either Fort Benton (grocery and hardware store there), or launch At the base of the Tiber Dam, Lake Elway, Sanford Park Campground, it adds 60 miles to the total trip, but I rather liked it. One stretch of true Class 1 to less than a 2 near the fancy house.
University of Nebraska has all the Lewis and Clark diaries on line. The must read before is Stephen Ambrose, “Undaunted Courage” It will help you pick the dates out when you research the on line journals.
Eagle Creek Encampment, perhaps Lewis’ most famous and flowery language. The exact site is on the west side of the creek, private land or BLM maybe by now. You can stand on the spot where the words were written. Neats Coulee is a do not miss. Some markers still exist, but few, it IS a real and living river, it erodes its banks, changes its course. Near Decision Point, Loma , Montana. If you can, Ma’s Loma Cafe, save your appetite, walk into town, plain, horrible , wonderful place. She used to make all her own pies. A do not miss. Daily special or fried chicken and coleslaw, burger and coleslaw Wood Bottom camp is about one mile from Decision Point and 3 miles from Ma’s. If you have come down the Marias River, haul out at the Teton River bridge, Ma’s is just over the bridge.
Smal state park at Coal Bank Landing, last water source for your trip. The river is NOT suitable for filtration, ag chemicals. 1 to 2 gallons per person, per day. Judith landing MAY have water. Check before you go. or possibly have some staked there for you.
If you hitch a ride into Winifred, great burgers, 'Montana’s best burger. But at least a cold beer.
There are hundreds of places to do side hikes. I recommend them all… THAT is why allow a few more days.
IMPORTANT, It appears even in the L&C Journals. Pack after dinner the night before travel, leaving only the tent and sleeping gear. Roll that up before dawn and leave, at or before dawn. A quick coffee, or instant oatmeal, better, breakfast bars , apples and oranges that can be eaten on the river. Get to your next camp before noon. Do not minimize this… in the Breaks, the afternoon time winds can be fierce. Get your travel done pre noon and hike the after noon. Along the same lines, your canoes are securely tied down whenever on shore and over night. It would be a damned long walk out. Note. I am not kidding or exaggerating. Tie them down. I have seen kevlar canoes waving on the end of their tether, like flag in a breeze.
Bullwacker Coulee lots of hiking 47,825569 -108.973422 Probable location of “Where I first beheld the snow covered mountains” 12 mile round trip hike. min, three quarts of water per. person.
Rattlesnake country. always a walking stick thumping the ground, snakes feel the vibrations, cows never step on a snake, because the snake felt the plodding and left. And, never walk three abreast, or even two. The reason for ‘Indian file’ in a line, is for snake country. Three abreast, if a snake is trying to escape,and they always do, , one of the outer people will step on it. Do not reach into or step into a bush without leading with your stick. And, listen to the ravens, crows, they will tell you where the snake is. Listen to them.
Stop nearly anywhere except private land, hike explore, travel in the mornings, don’t do it fast. And, if you get the the morning of the day before your pick up, and you go “Oh shit.” and must paddle like mad for 40 miles, you did it just perfectly.
Take as many people with you as will go. Wonderful place to go play. Class I is the biggest thing you are likely to encounter, two of them may just start to hedge into a Class II just riffles. depends on river cfs.
Find Glenn,talk to him. Buy his book. read “Undaunted Courage” research University of Nebraska L&C Journals, travel in AM only, take a few extra days for weather or hiking. Weather normally 90’s, have at least one 45F outfit. It is a hiking trip, you just take a canoe to get there. Mostly, have fun, not a race, the current is strong, paddling easy. Annd almost on bugs. Heaven.
I have done some small amount of L&C route, all of Powell’s, and then some, and multiple times.