I just looked at the Marathon Boat website to see what info is provided about Grumman canoes, and since the last time I looked there, they have greatly reduced the number of options in terms of variations in how the different boats are constructed, and they have greatly reduced the amount of info regarding hull materials, so the current website is of no help.
Is this a 15-foot canoe (or very close to that length)? I sort of guess it might be, based on the model number. In any case, the difference between 49 and 60 pounds is a lot, and I wonder if you are providing the weight figures for lightweight and standard versions of the same boat, rather than two possible options for the lightweight version. The listed weight for what is likely the former “standard” version of their 15-foot canoe is 69 pounds, not 60, but 49 pounds sounds to me like a plausible weight for a thin-skinned aluminum canoe of that length.
Anyway, most people don’t have a micrometer to measure hull thickness and not many have a hanging-style scale with a capacity approaching 70 pounds, but everyone has a bathroom scale, and that will do the trick. Here’s how.
Set the boat on level ground, preferably concrete or asphalt, with each end sitting on two STACKED sections of 2x4 lumber (to describe this more precisely, the 2x4’s are positioned “flat” on the ground, but stacked one on top of the other to double the overall thickness). You’ll need to put the lumber for each support point a few feet toward center from the ends so that there’s enough hull width for the boat to not tip over and touch the ground at some other location. Each point of support needs to be the same distance from its end of the canoe, so that each support point is carrying the same share of the weight as the other. Now, for one of those support points, replace the lower piece of lumber with your bathroom scale (the remaining upper piece of 2x4 transfers the supported weight to a small enough area of the scale for the scale to function). Bingo! That scale is now reading one-half of the boat’s weight.
If anyone needs an explanation on why the support points should be constructed and positioned in this way, I’ll be happy to provide it. Suffice it to say, your weight reading will be wrong if one end of the canoe is sitting on the ground instead of being supported at a particular spot - a spot which does not “wander” as a result of slight changes in “levelness” of the boat.
Yeah, if you really want to be accurate you must place the scale first at one end and then the other, and then add the two weights, but the single reading taken at one point of support as described above will be really close to half the total weight. Oh, and use the shortest sections of 2x4 that you you can, so you can just ignore the weight of the lumber. If you use long pieces of 2x4 you’ll have to determine the weight of the one that is sitting on the scale and subtract that from your scale reading.