Longboat Surfing the Cusp

Beautiful session yesterday! Sunny skies with air temps in the mid 50s. Beach walkers were out in force. So were the surfers as an ocean storm was generating 3.5-4’ swells in the 11-12 second range. The line up was as busy as I’ve seen it in months. Lots of folks were sitting on the beach just observing the action.

Once I launched and paddled through the line up, I headed way down the beach to get some space and solitude. :slight_smile: Was a great “closing session” as I am headed in for my mitral valve replacement next week. Hopefully, will be back on the water in late April or May. Will come back on the other side as a “free” man, having filed for retirement right after my extended medical leave.

Life is good! Mahalo!



Mid 50s !!! Glassy smooth, looks like a good time.

Hope all goes well with the surgery, and you heal up quickly.

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Best wishes for a quick recovery.

I think your surf session went much better than this guys:

Man caught on video driving truck into ocean off Florida beach: ‘Truck don’t surf

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I assume you have finished moving and are now settling into that desert like environment!


Apparently, some believe trucks can do anything… LEO should have let him and his truck be…

Looks like there are no free rides for winter reprieves… New England is going to get spanked tonight into tomorrow with a classic nor’easter! Bring it!


Nice surf session. Best of luck o the surgery for a quick recovery!

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Good luck for the operation and a full recovery!

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Yup the Poly boats are tucked away in the barn until it warms up a bit. Waveskis, whitewater boat and paddleboard in the unheated garage. I had a bit of a wreck driving up here with some of our heirlooms, keepsakes and a large paddleboard and totaled my Subaru, it had lots and lots of miles so not a huge loss. We still have about 300 boxes to unpack and figure out where to put everything. I had plans to do some coldwater paddling but not really in the mood to go out alone on the very cold water and ice.
Poly Boats


Best of luck, mend quickly, and congrats on your impending retirement.

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Thanks for the well wishes. To you all:



Nice–My old (hand painted by me) shuttle van was named “Morrison.” Old school all the way, Bro.

Here’s a couple pics for a few laughs and to a speedy recovery. I know you’ll do fine.:+1::v:


Well, finally back on the surf saddle again. It’s been 14 weeks since I last surfed and 12 week post mitral valve replacement. Lots of good surf this spring in New England. But I had to focus on rehab and recovery - twice daily walks, leading to light calisthenics, daily rounds on the double end speed bag, then rucking and, and more recently, “torture” sessions with kettlebells. Well worth it!

Aside from initial nervousness with the 3-4’ surf, I felt almost as good as when I left off. That first capsize and shakey but successful roll put almost everything back into place.




Return of The Mac!:+1::v:

I totally missed your original post and this thread. So GLAD to see you back on the water. I look forward to seeing more of that.

Glad you are back at it!

Styley old schoolie in that pic. 40’s?

Glad you’re back at it Sing!

Thanks, folks. Glad to be back on the waves! Recovery this round took more time than the first op 12 years ago. But, being newly retired, I have more time. LOL! :+1: :partying_face:


Good to see you’re happy and healthy!

Welcome back.

Now, if you want to use a 'longer’boat in the cusp…
how to launch in a surfski: