Looking for advice on trolling motor

I am looking for a trolling motor for my 16’ Scanoe. Any suggestions on size of motor to get? What about battery? I am looking at the Walmart brand deep cycle.

I had one of those.
The Wal-Mart deep cycle will do fine. I have one right now and use it. It’s adequate and the price is right.

On the trolling motor, I’ve tried several on my Scanoe and it’s current replacement. My recommendation is to get a Minnkota Endura with at least 46 ft/lbs of thrust. If you want something that watches the battery usage better, Minnkota makes some trolling motors that do that but they’re about double the price of the Endura. That’s not worth it to me, but it might be for you depending on how you’re going to use it and what gives you peace of mind.

  • Big D

Minnkota …
… the Minnkota Traxxis 45 lb. thrust , w/digital maximizer (the mega important part) , it’s a variable speed tiller , 12 volt …

You’ll want a good quality deep cycle marine battery , the higher the amp hr. rating , the longer it will last when using (think of amp hr. as how much fuel you got and how far you can go , and how much time you have) … also the higher the amp hr. rating the larger and heavier the battery is . I’d say not less than 125 amp. hr. … couple the Traxxis 45 w/digital maximizer , and a 125 amp. hr. batt. and you can go forever .

You also need a good 1 bank charger (2 bank chargers are for charging two batts.) , Minnkota sells one of those too … I’d recomend the MK110P portable charger .

These Minnkota items aren’t cheap , but they are great stuff that opens up long distance and times on the water with a single charge …

link … http://www.minnkotamotors.com/home.aspx

there are cheaper ways to go , but they severely limit you … if that’s ok for your trips , like short day trips , then maybe cheaper will serve you ok … but if you want backup go power for multi days on the water and all day running , then go the other way .

Dear splashback,

If you have a Gander Mountain near you they have the Minnkota Endura 40 priced at $ 179.99 with a free battery charger.

40 pounds of thrust will be more than adequate to push a Scanoe and a couple of guys around even in modest river current. I know because for years I ran a 43 pound thrust trolling motor on a johnboat that weighed 500 pounds by itself and had 800 to 900 pounds, not counting the 75 pound dog and the 160 pound outboard, of people and gear in it all the time.

With a fully charged battery I fished the Susquehanna River anytime it wasn’t iced over and I never had any problems.

I personally like the Endura models better than the Traxxis. Even though the Traxxis has some nice features, it just seems chintzy compared to the Endura. Look around and you’ll find no shortage of reviewers who complain about the cheesy plastic motor mount. Both motors seem cheesy compared to the old Minnkota 35 though, and the Traxxis isn’t worth $ 100.00 or more for the same amount of thrust that you get in the Endura.

Wal-Mart batteries are probably about as good as any wet cell deep cycle battery since they are made by Interstate Battery.

If you fish for 4 or 5 hours and you don’t run the motor constantly you can get by with a Group 24 sized battery. If you want to stay out 10 hours get a Group 27 but keep in mind that it will weigh 10 to 12 pounds more than the 24 at about 70 pounds or so.

Any 12 volt trickle charger will work if you don’t manage to get the free Minnkota at Gander Mountain. For around $ 50.00 - 60.00 you can get a nice charger on sale at Sears that will double as a high capacity jumpstart charger for your car.

Just set it on 2Amp autocharge when you pull the battery out of your Scanoe when it’s discharged and you’ll have a freshly charged battery overnight.


Tim Murphy AKA Goobs

Trolling Motor
I have a Minnkota Endura 30lb. thrust for 15 years and still going strong.

My new fishing spot is 3 miles one way (straight shot) and a lot of winding around and fishing on the way. Sometimes I run to this spot and back twice during the day.

I recently bought a Minnkota Traxxis 45 lb. thrust , w/digital maximize and have extended my range greatly. I did notice the bracket at point of contact with the transom start to spread as I tightened it down. The metal cups were sliding on the transom and was solved by placing a computer mouse pad on the transom. The 30lb. would wimp out in a high wind, no problem with the Traxxis 45.

The Wal-Mart batteries are good just make sure you get the most reserve amps you can. I was surprised in the group 24 at Wal-mart the most reserve amps I found was 100 so I bought a 140 reserve amps, group 24 from AutoZone for about $10.00 more.

I use a Schumacher XCS15 battery charger from Wal-Mart.

If on a tight budget the Minnkota Endura 30lb. thrust will do. To trim my canoe I put a spare battery in the bow and don’t worry about running out of juice.

Keep the open side up :~)

Spare battery for ballast
Good idea! I use water jugs when I can’t find a spare human around. Spare battery is better than water (but still prefer company).

  • Big D

After a little over a year of using
a trolling motor on my canoe, I must say I’m not super satisfied with it. I probably need a bigger battery, because I seem to run out of juice too fast, but I’m thinking instead to sell the trolling motor and buy the smallest outboard I can find.

Outboard is much better
But there are places where you aren’t allowed to use an outboard.

My trolling motor will just barely push my canoe with two occupants upstream on my home river. My outboard does it handily. It’s also lighter and easier to use.

My raft won’t take an outboard but it will take a trolling motor, so I have each. I use the trolling motor on electric only lakes with my canoe, and it works pretty well on still water. I have yet to run out of juice with my battery.

  • Big D

What outboard do you have?

Mercury four stroke 2.5hp
I have found it to be reliable, though I had a bit of trouble figuring out which way the fuel cut-off valve was supposed to go.

A few weeks ago, I was able to take my 17’ canoe up-current with myself and another 200lb (or so) fellow against high and steadily rising current with very little difficulty.

When I have tested the engine against a 55ft/lb thrust trolling motor (which using the 17ft/lb : 1hp ought to be more effective), the engine blew the motor away. What took 45 minutes to get upstream in swift current and completely drained the battery such that I had to use oars for steering back downstream I made in 8 minutes with the engine at about 1/4 power. The work output of the electric motor may be greater, but the engine transfers it to the water much, much, much more effectively.

I recently put a Mac’s River Runner rock guard on, which did reduce the top performance of the engine, but it protects the prop from busting on the many, many, many subsurface rocks and ledges in my primary rivers. A minor reduction in effectiveness is worth it to keep it running with a whole prop.

Carry a tool kit, spare prop, and shear pins in the boat.

  • Big D

what size?
Do you guys think that a 45lb would be more than enough, or would a 55lb have any benefit on a 14ft 50lb flat transom canoe? Considering the Traxxis 45 or 55 variable.


I have three sizes
I have three trolling motors. A 40 ft/lb thrust Motorguide, a 46 ft/lb thrust Minkota, and a 55 ft/lb thrust Bass Pro Shops Prowler.

I like the 46 ft/lb thrust the best. The 55 ft/lb thrust motor from Bass Pro Shops isn’t near as smooth and the shaft is way too long.

The MotorGuide’s transom mount broke. I need to get it repaired, but have had difficulty finding someone who can do it within a 2.5 hour drive.

In general, I’d get a Minnkota Endura as powerful as you can afford, but watch the shaft length.

I’m thinking of tinkering with the BPS Prowler to see whether I can shorten the shaft. The money’s already spent and if I bust it irreparably - so what?

  • Big D

make shaft length whatever you want
… it’s done by taking the top off , disconnecting the wires , cutting shaft to desired length being careful to not cut the wires inside it , shortening wires as required and reconnecting them , then put top back on . Add a prop cowling .


A Riprtide is shown , one can see how simple the process is , other motors are similar . It’s all pretty much self explanatory on other motors once you understand the main steps .