Looking for tips to paddle faster

This type of advice can be tough, as some of the things that need to happen can be hard to see. I’ll try to bring it back to some of your original comments.
Now I’m no race expert. I did a 10k race yesterday in a Current Designs Extreme and it took me 1hour, 2 minutes, and 14 seconds. I think that’s 5.99 mph. I’ll call it 6 mostly because it makes me feel better, but given my less than perfect track, it’s likely also true. I did a 13.1 mile race in late March in a Current Designs Stratus 18 and it took me 2 hours, 19 minutes, and 10 seconds. 5.65 mph. So I think a little progress, but also a shorter race. I definitely felt like I worked harder for the duration of the 10k race than I did for the duration of the 13.1 miler. The Stratus 18 is a faster hull than the Extreme, but it was an ocean race yesterday including paddling into and back out of an inlet, and I wanted to know that I wouldn’t miss a beat. I did make up some ground paddling into the inlet catching and holding onto some rides, and actually overtook one of the surfskis. But during the paddle back out and the paddle along the shoreline to the pier against the wind, I fell a ways behind the surfski pack.
So again, I’m no elite racer, but I figured that would give you an idea where I’m at.
“I put the paddle forward as much as I can reach and I pull it out of water before it gets behind me. I do not grip the paddle tightly. I try pushing my left and right leg opposite to my stroke motion but didn’t see much effectiveness so I just end up locking up my leg solid against the foot peg.”
In the paddling world, we are all very much about technique over sheer power. And wisely so. The technique has to be there. But there is an intersection on the slope of increasing speed between technique and power. Technique will only get you so far. Sheer power will only get you so far. In some areas there needs to be a perfect marriage of the two.
“I put the paddle forward as much as I can reach” - That’s great. I think the reason this leads to power is that you can reach furthest forward with your core rotated as much as possible. If you take the time to fully plant your blade before allowing any of that torso unwinding, you will take advantage of that power. The technique is a way to enable you to harness more power. While it may be difficult to keep that full torso extension up at the rate of your cadence, if you commit to it and do the hard work, it shouldn’t take long to convince yourself that cadence and length of stroke don’t mean as much without that application of greater power.

“and I pull it out of water before it gets behind me.” - The shortness of a racing stroke to me seems the result of the length of a stroke that can be powered through only legs, hips, torso. Using your arms to lengthen the stroke is just another moment that you’re not engaging the more powerful muscles. Once you start to coordinate this power with every bit of your cadence, it will make sense to you. But it is a different set of muscles, a different fitness than more casual touring.
“I do not grip the paddle tightly.” - This is great. This helps to never allow your wrists to twist and bend with your stroke. It doesn’t matter what paddle, what feather, what curve to the paddle shaft, and it doesn’t matter who here, or anywhere else proclaims confidently and definitively otherwise, anything but straight unbending wrists with any type of paddle is an error in practice and/or judgement. You can and should maintain straight wrists with any type of paddle. A relaxed grip and torso rotation are both key to that.

“I try pushing my left and right leg opposite to my stroke motion but didn’t see much effectiveness so I just end up locking up my leg solid against the foot peg.” - This is what you have to work out. Over the years, as I’ve been able to incorporate my leg power through my hips, through my lower torso, to the boat, the pressure against the footpeg actually got lighter. For me, it was important to not think of it in terms of transferring power through to the paddle. Think about it in terms of tranfering power to the boat. The paddle is locked in the water. I’m going to thrust my kayak forward in the strongest way I can. In relation to the boat moving through the water, the paddle blade travels very little through the water - very, very little. Think of it as such, as the paddle being an object fixed in the water. Your knee is bent, you back is twisted facing towards the same side of the kayak as your bent knee, and you’ve taken the time to plant that blade fully in the water before allowing any of this to change. The first thing that has to happen is that your other leg, the leg you just finished pushing off with, that is now straightened against the footpeg on the other side, needs to relax, along with your hips, so that it doesn’t take much of anything to get those hip bones to rotate a bit the other way.
So now your hand is forward on a planted blade reaching up towards your bent knee, with your foot on the footpeg, and your other leg has relaxed, and your hips are relaxed. How can I push this boat under me forward with the most power.
How can I, from this position, push this boat underneath of me forward with the most “POWER”. We’re intersecting power with all this technique now. Imagine holding that fixed paddleshaft planted in the water, straightening that leg almost like you’re trying to stand up, forcing that kayak forward through the water. Your hips were relaxed, and they did a little twist, because your other leg was not locked against the footpeg preventing this, and your other leg is now bent. From your lower torso on up, you twisted following the lead of your legs and lower torso. Following the lead of your leg, hips, and lower torso. Coordinating this is a hard part. Everyone starts with arm paddling. Then they add shoulder paddling. Then they think about adding mid and lower torso. I don’t think many ever make it to hips and legs. Then I’ve heard consistent arguments that the exit of the stroke will be too far back if they add in more rotation. And a fast cadence is easier with a short paddle. So it seems like arms can do it. And it isn’t as easy to keep a cadence with your powerful muscles as it is with your arms. So a paddler has to understand that although they have been paddling many miles with a quick cadence and their arms and shoulders are strengthened as a result, their “power” muscles may not be at all in shape, and will need work to get up to speed. Even if you consciously think about a bigger pause between each stroke in terms of keeping your torso and hips and legs and feet all coordinated with your arms and planting the paddle, you will find your speed increasing fairly quickly. But when getting this all coordinated, start with the technique piece of getting the paddle fully planted while you’re still fully twisted from the end of your last stroke. And then lead with relaxing the off leg right up through your hips, and lead the power with straighting your on-side leg, feeling those relaxed hips rotating. and work from the bottom up until you end your stroke. Your kayak will have been driven forward to the point of your hips passing the planted blade before you need to engage your arms.
You have good kayaks that can be driven faster. I would suggest forgetting about cadence and speed for a while. Focus on strong muscle engagement. You start working this out, and your speed will start to naturally increase without even feeling like it has.
That’s my take anyway. I hope this helps.

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Excellent post EXCELLENT :+1:

Personally I do swap leg drive on each stroke.

EXTREMEly great post.

Been working on more Torso rotation. Did this short sprint 3 times at about 2 miles each run. Sustaining 4.5mph. Also did 6 miles at 4.4 (but I am calling it 4.5 bc mini breaks I took to turn and turn camera on and off)

I changed from Werner Ikelos 205cm to 210cm. Feel better with more leverage for speed. Also found having too short of a paddle isn’t great for other things like bracing or self rescue with paddle float.


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Do you know why your GPS record shows an elevation gain of 261 ft? Mine gives similar data and I’ve never really understood why. I though it might just be the random error in every measurement, but if these errors were truly random, then they should add up to zero, shouldn’t they?

GPS elevations are taken from different angles from different satellites over the earth. They are not to accurate as we can see.

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210 is to long for your height when paddling high angle. My opinion just what I feel. More leverage keep hand closer to blade just above the water. You said you don’t feather I think that slows you down also. To not bury your blade to deep your hands will need to be higher. It will slow your cadence and tire you faster.

Shouldn’t matter for paddle float rescue or bracing a 205 vs 210.

I have a Celtic 750 205-215 adjustable and will be getting a 195-205 soon. I’m 6’ tall.

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So these charts are errors.




How do you assess your progress? By conjecture if not by GPS.

The jagged graph was my 11 yr old grand daughter’s chart.

210 is to long for your height when paddling high angle. My opinion just what I feel. More leverage keep hand closer to blade just above the water. You said you don’t feather I think that slows you down also. To not bury your blade to deep your hands will need to be higher. It will slow your cadence and tire you faster.

I’m 5’4 and weigh 155lbs. My arms looks like they’re short. Trying the 210CM last 2 days, it felt “right”. The 205CM also felt like a “great fit” and I’ve used it for many trips including a 19mile around Shelter Island (around Long Island NY) for 5hours averaging at 4mph. However at time the 205CM felt just a “wee” short. With the 210CM, its easier to lean forward and reach to do initial winding and unwinding of torso rotation to get me going faster. I guess I need to try them side by side in the same outing as my brain memory is telling me the 210CM is the best for me right now.

After today’s multiple short sprints, i was getting some elbow pain with the 210CM. Not sure if that has anything to do the paddle length or it was simply a lot work with the wind and currents. Now I have to unpack the 205CM as it was ready to be shipped back for the exchange!

The video above ( (27) Kayak Paddling Technique Review - YouTube )
Does it the paddle look too long still?

I mean we’re talking about 5cm here, does it matter that much? I’m not planning to be a racer but I do want some efficient balance of speed, bracing, and maneuverability.

As for feathering, I’ll try that soon but I wanted to get some basics down with legs, torso rotations, and blade going in the water movements before adding another layer here.

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Don’t see elevations on your charts?

Watching your video I see your hand over your top of your head many times. I keep my hand closer to the paddle blade for more power with less effort. That results in less energy used so you paddle farther faster. Blade should enter water by your toes. You should be able to do that easily with a 205.

If I didn’t feather I’d be using more wrist flex making power transfer harder or more tiring for me. Not all about racing at all.

5CM means a lot to me doing high angle.

I have 205, 215 ikelos, 210 corryvreckan, 750 Celtic adjustable 205-215. I can paddle low angle with any of them also.

I would never buy a non-adjustable length paddle again.

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Spot on to me findings about feathering

You’re lifting your hands to high with the 210 and straining you elbow I’d guess. You actually have less leverage when extended higher.

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@PaddleDog52 don’t care about elevation. Im always at sea level, because I’m always in the surface of the sea. I know most forum members are not impressed with GPS accuracy. I won’t argue that. However, I feel compelled to offer another error riddled statistic. Maybe I’m wrong . . . Maybe I’m right . . . Or close to right. If you’re curious, I’m willing to . . . Does anyone have more accurate “perception”.

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She asked about elevations shown on GPS.

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Here’s the satellite view of my launch and recovery. It reflects the actual location as as I recall. I really don’t give a hoot about elevation, because I don’t levitate. I won’t argue the accuracy of the GPS, I just accept it, because I physically experienced it. Nobody else has to accept it. Those stats are for me. I have no problem with anyone believing that they’re . . . Spurious! It seems remarkably close to my linear location.



Keep doing what you do! I just have a different point of view. My shoulders feel.pretty good.

Every time you crest a wave, you have gained elevation!

In theory, this metric makes sense for a cyclist or runner who is doing multiple climbs in a single effort, but obviously it’s not tuned for paddle sports.

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Can’t be too inaccurate! I keep finishing in less time on each trip. That’s a fact.

https://support.garmin.com/en-US/?faq=QPc5x3ZFUv1QyoxITW2vZ6#:~:text=The%20main%20source%20of%20error,satellite%20configurations%20during%20fixed%20determinations.

Google it tons of articles on the subject of elevation

Elevation calibrated by GPS is accurate to +/-400 feet with a strong GPS signal. Elevation is determined by the device acquiring a GPS signal, while maps will provide elevation information based on survey data. GPS elevation readings may be different than elevations on maps or marked on trails and roads.

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https://support.garmin.com › en-US

GPS Elevation Reading Accuracy on Outdoor and Fitness Devices

Thank you. The elevation gain I asked about earlier (261 ft) is well within Garmin’s stated accuracy then.
No big deal for paddlers, but cyclers might want to check a USGS topo map!

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