I think he’s only referring to inaccuracies with elevation not speed and distance. GPS determined speed and distance are more accurate (smaller margin of error) than GPS determined elevation. Although, the current speed isn’t as accurate as average speed over time.
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I am working the other end of the equation.
How slow can I go!
The ultimate goal is to perfect the kayak-nap.
DSCF0028 by Steve Zihn, on Flickr
It takes dedication and unrelenting practice.
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Nice at times too. I fell asleep trying to drift into 200 plus ducks. I did it by not moving. I did fall asleep. I woke up in the middle of them all.
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Cyclists and hikers who really care about elevation will buy a GPS with a barometric altimeter and calibrate it. We’ll also calculate cumulative elevation gain the old fashioned way by noting the elevation at the base and peak of every climb and adding the climbs up.
The elevation gain calculated by this app (I assume it’s Strava) doesn’t correctly account for measurement errors. The same screen that shows an elevation gain of 261 feet also shows a maximum elevation of 40 feet, which means the GPS error isn’t that big, but small measurement errors in the positive direction are being counted as elevation gained.
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Here is an clip from my Garmin Instinct watch that has a barometric altimeter.
Elsewhere it show my elavation gain was 13.1 feet and loss was 6.6 feet, so some small error.
Impressive dedication!
I agree with that theory about elevation error.
when I hike the same trail on different days I get the same readings for distance. So I consider my gps to be accurate for distance. avg speed seems right, max speed is usually way off. I rarely deal with elevation although overall gradient is not as far off on ww streams where I have used it. I’m mostly interested in finding the specific elevations between two points and calculate my own avg gradient for a particular section.
I really enjoyed the feather video. I’ve been decreasing my angle with flatwater paddling. I go more low angle to put less stress on the joints. Buying the adjustable paddle for that is nice- I lengthen slightly and decrease angle. I shorten and increase angle for more hand over hand paddling when I want to pick up speed. It is always a compromise. Since my ww paddles aren’t adjustable I’m usually at 45 degrees. What is different with ww kayaks is that they are designed to turn. The need for corrections can impede getting good rotation since I often shorten forward strokes. With the 45 degree offset on a whitewater paddle, my stern rudder strokes really stress my lead wrist. My goal regardless of what kind of water I’m paddling is to almost never go faster. I’m more about putting less stress on my body. I go higher angle on attainments. headwinds, and ww. I go lower angle for distance but actually increase regular cadence. Combine all that with some bad habits. My default muscle memory is to hold the paddle somewhat asymmetrically. A habit from c1ing with a dominant side. Paddle drags are a huge deal for me. I frequently tell myself “clean out”. Combine that with some poor posture and I’m just a mess.
My idea of speed is a hot day and wanting to finish to get out of the sun. Or simply decreasing the time battling a head wind or oncoming darkness.
I will paddle further to stay in the current, the shade, or view the shoreline. The faster way might be the straight line but often that is not what I am after. I want the easier line (maximizing my use of current) if I’m doing a higher mileage day. Overall, I find straightening the arms out and decreasing the angle takes stress off the joints- elbows and shoulders. On rivers with mild or no downstream current I can average between 3.5 and 4.0 mph when by myself. I reward myself with short drink and snack breaks in the boat every few miles. I slow down when with others. After about 10 miles I need a stretch break and have to pee. Overall though I’m not much on stopping or simply drifting unless I’m wearing down. I will take “float breaks” when the current picks up. My slowest paddling is when I’m in picture mode or wildlife viewing.
(3) Port Jefferson Harbor - Paddling Joy - YouTube
I made a new video of what my paddling strokes look like today with the Ikelos 205CM. Still working on rotating more and also keeping things centered and consistent. No editing of the video other than the first few minutes to speed up the part of getting into the kayak. Be warned very boring video so i threw in an audio track to make it at least interesting to relax to.
The pace avg says 4.4mph on my iphone 14 / app strava so take that whatever accuracy that it has.
If I recall accurately, you had a cadence of around 80 spm with the Cyprus (94.5 sq in), and around 65 spm with the Ikelos (107.1 sq in). I don’t know if this is relevant, but compare the amount of resistance with each paddle (of course, each paddle slips and grabs water differently):
Ikelos, 107.1 sq in x 65 strokes = 6,420 sq in resistance
Cyprus, 94.5 sq in x 80 strokes = 7,560 sq in resistance
Count cadence, check surface areas of paddles, do the math calculation to check for mistakes, then see which paddle is presenting more square inches of resistance. That paddle theoretically will be faster, if you can keep up the cadence.
Most of your power looks like it comes from arms, rather than torso rotation.
Nice day to paddle 
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My thoughts are 205 is to long for you. Looks to me you’re not holding paddle centered it looks longer on your right hand side. Drip rings could be throwing me off but a did stop video a bunch to look. I reach forward more for longer stroke. I don’t see you arms ever going straight for full extension . I see where your hands are from the paddle blade . Guessing 10-12". Then when you paddle many times your hand is touching the water or just over it so to me your blade is going to deep into the water.
Look where you want the hull to go. I see a lot of neck movement side to side with each stroke. I may do that at times but I’m looking down more if I’m checking the depth of blade to criticize myself. If I want to go fast I usually pull straighter, more vertical and closer to the hull. I can get lazy or want to go slow and paddle low angle.
I’m 6’ and I am now looking to try a 195 on my Celtic 750 vs. the 205 adjustable I have now. I have to buy a new shaft as it’s a 4 piece assembly. It’s 300 bucks I may just buy a entire paddle 195-210 possibly in 650 cm2 my partner can use.
Sometimes your hands stay tight and other times you released them more . I personally don’t think you need to go full open hand all the time just avoid constant tight grip.
More torso rotation will let you paddle longer and faster and save your arms . Paddle should enter water by your toes but hard to see from the camera angle. Even side shot I wouldn’t know where your toes are. Try to judge and get a feel for where they are and reach that far forward if you want a nice cruise speed.
I like my hands to be between chin and nose because the higher I have to lift my arms to keep blade just below water surface more tiring for me. Also not reaching up high gives me a bit faster cadence.
Best paddle videos I know are Gordon Brown . I have Wayne H videos also. Some GB videos on YouTube.
If I get the 195 adjustable shaft you can try it if you like.
Enjoy!
My neck is too turning A lot more than I want bc I am looking at where I am planting my paddle and how deep to how far I am sweeping back to check my techniques
Will try to make a more natural paddling video and up the cadence. Today was slow and steady to see what I am doing. I was doing short sweep also and think I should pull out f the water out further back towards the stern.
Think you are right 195 may be better but still worry too short of a paddle is not practical for bracing or self rescues with paddle float. Plus the return window has passed for the paddle.
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I looked at 1 to 2 minute segments of your paddling, at the start, about 15:20, and shortly before the end when your were nearshore.
What I noted: 1) At both the start and end, it appeared your strokes were ending well behind your hip = wasted energy. At the higher cadence around 15:20 your stroke appeared to exit the water noticiably closer to the hip than in the other parts. Recommend slowing your candence until you get comfortable with and solve the issue of exiting your blade at the hip. Most paddling will be at a more relaxed pace so you need to get that right and make it your natural stroke. Some side angle views would probably confirm this observation.
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your head bobbing can be solved as PD52 mentioned by watching/looking where you want to go. Also agree with PD52 that your paddle often seemed to be offcenter, i.e. extended more on the left side than the right. Suggest you do I as do and get rid of the drip rings…they just get in the way and give a false visual reference for hand placement.
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The few sweep strokes I saw were ineffective. Reason is, your sweep appears to be exactly the same as your power stroke except it goes back further than your normal stroke = you do not turn (which is the objective of the sweep stroke). Improve the sweep by making a very noticable wide arcing sweep from your toe all the way to the back of the kayak…in practice, do this slowly and watch the blade when it is in the water.
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like most of us, your grip alternated between occasionally relaxed and mostly overtight as if you were trying to strangle the paddle shaft. You already know that the relaxed grip is more effective.
Basically looking good with some tweeking needed. Keep working on it, improvement is noted.
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Edge the boat to help your turn and sweep.
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As said above by Hank forget about cadence and forget about speed til you get your strokes smoother.
Drip rings may help you center or keep your paddle centered. Measure them and even pit a piece of red tape so you can see if they move.
Agree with Hank on sweep strokes. Also when you do a sweep bit less power when paddle is most perpendicular to the hull. That part of your sweep is really making you move forward. Go wider and when you finish end closer to the hull.
When I bought my ikelos the sold me a 215. Probably because it was what they had. You can always sell your 205 down the line if you like and take a small hit
I use my 215 in my Libra XT tandem which is 32" beam and go with a lower stroke at times she takes the 205. You can brace and paddle float rescue with a 205. Someone on here turned me on to shorter ikelos idea and I found one used on ebay.
It’s all muscle memory, practice, and concentration. Yes at times I lose concentration and reign myself in if just cruising slow and looking around at things. Maybe you can have someone video you as you pass from the end of a dock. You could also mount it and just go back and forth if alone.
Also when there’s minimal wind, or current aim bow at a fixed object. Then take 20 - 25 strokes with what you’re comfortable with and see if you stay aligned on the fixed point. Take 5 strokes at first till you get comfortable with it or even less. Just find a safe spots to try it.
Try feathering for some of your time out for me it became natural. When I try ZERO now it’s a struggle
Enjoy and look at some videos on YouTube and apply them to yourself.
Enjoy!
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I also noticed my hands moving off-center when adapting to a new paddle recently. I wrapped rings of automotive pin-striping equidistant from the blades to create reference points. The pin-striping is waterproof and very thin so your hands can still slide easily over it.
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Once the mechanics of an effective stroke are settled upon, The best way to improve speed efficiently is to increase your recovery rate imho
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The only legitimate reason for feathering a paddle is if a feathered paddle is more comfortable for you. Some like a feathered paddle and some don’t. Either is valid for a particular padder. The idea of feathering to reduce wind resistance is mostly BS and once you choose a particular paddle angle do not change it due to conditions. You want the have the paddle orientation in muscle memory. Changing it due to conditions risks slicing the blade through the water on a stroke, brace or roll. I don’t think feather angle affects speed very much. Feathered or not the blade should be oriented the same when in the water.
As far as paddle length, you want the entire blade, no more and no less , in the water for the majority of a forward stroke and not hitting the side of the boat.
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Took off the drip ring and noticed I keep preferring to hold left hand closer to the blade. Kept adjusting but my left hand left hand keeps finding its way there
Made some adjustments planting location and reaching mor forward to also keeping blade closer to boat. I noticed my speed went up a notch. Still keeping a slow cadence in these practices. Right now it’s at 51 SPM. Not sure what my max sustained cadence will be when I push myself hard for 5+ miles
This is super long video. Music added makes it good for the holidays background video get together
When I feel my hands drifting around, I remember the basic paddler’s box. Often times my hands drift because I’m windmilling, paddling using just my shoulders and arms and not moving my torso. So I reset in between strokes, when the boat is gliding I get my hands and arms back into the box.
This is an instructor at an ACA workshop. Someone else, it may have been Marshall, said to think about how you’d position your arms if you were bringing someone hot tea on a serving platter.