Loose paddle ferrule?

When I pull each end of my paddle (Werner Kalliste) away from the center, there is a space of about 1/32" where the two halves join. This was not the case when it was new. The space creates a very slight sensation of looseness when paddling.

Is this common? Is it caused by wear on the ferrule? The paddle is about 3 years old.

I had that issue. I coated part of the ferule (all the way around) with epoxy to thicken it. then sanded down to snug fit. so far so good. its been about 6 months so far so we will see how it holds

same here

Which Ferrule?
Just curious. Is this the current ferrule with the 15deg increments and little window that shows where it is set, or is it a different one? I haven’t seen too many problems with this system, and it’s so tight and perfect when new. I’d hate to hear that is an issue with these loosening up over time. I haven’t had any trouble with any of mine, so just wondering.

Any paddle that has a simple
spring button is going to start to wear down.

Something that must be checked once the ferule has been used a bunch of miles while wigging around is the INSIDE of the shaft … As the ferule wiggles around it slowly wears a groove inside the shaft … Basically weakening it from the inside out and you never know … If you can feel a ridge when you slide finger of some tool in, this means your shaft is not as strong as it once was.

If its real bad,but you want to keep the paddle ( not as reliable as new anymore ) I would suggest cutting it down so the ferule is farther up inside the shaft to fresh ID and off the ridge.

A different epoxy method
To reduce sanding I coated the inside ferrule and inserted it into the shaft all the way. Then I immediately removed it and let it dry. After drying it needed only one easy pass with fine sand paper to make it fit.

simplest loose ferrule solution
A very simple solution I used on the 100 year old brass ferrule of a historical double blade paddle: Varnish the “female” end to tighten up the fit. Redo as needed. A very quick and easy solution, although not as long lasting as epoxy coating.


Werner can repair it
If you don’t want to try the suggested remedies, or it doesn’t work out to your satisfaction, contact Werner and ask them to repair it. It’s not likely to be covered by warranty at this point, but the cost is probably low. Shipping it to them might be the most expensive part.

Werner Paddles
has a help line. Used it when my 2 yr old paddle had the same issue. I also got the same advice from Danny Mongno who is now Werner’s rep for the Eastern U.S.

Their answer was simple: take paddle apart and swish both ends in CLEAN water in small tight circles. Do it fast for a minute or so.

The problem is usually minute grains of sand or dirt. This will knock them out. Thereafter rinse the ends in the cleanest water you can find at the end of each paddle, or in a tub at home. Then store in some kind of bag, homemade or otherwise w. the paddle blades UP.

I’ve cleaned the ferrule ends like this a few times and it’s always worked. Works for paddles that are getting hard to pull apart, too.

on precision machined ferrules like Werner, sanding, applying epoxy etc destroys the exact matching characteristic of both ferrules. Voids the warranty as well.

That’s helpful, thanks
I was thinking it had to do with the spring button. The looseness is not in the diameter of the shaft.

I’m surprised because the paddle isn’t that old and I’m definitely not hard on my paddles.

It’s not too bad now. I was worried about it getting worse. The space is only 1/32" now. Not time to go cutting anything. But if it increased to 1/6" that would bug me a lot more.

What is the underlying cause?
of the problem, and how will washing solve it?

To me it feels more like a wear problem than a grit problem. I can pull the two halves of the paddle back and forth due to the small space in the center.

in prior post
I said there are usually minute particles of dirt or sand. Small enough not to be noticed.

If you want to sand and epoxy your Werner paddle - and ruin the precise machining that went into making a tight joint for the ferrules - before simply washing it out, that’s your call.

The logical process is to try the easiest and least disruptive fix first.

Have you actually called Werner to discuss the gap in your ferrule? and why sanding and adding epoxy to a Werner is a very bad idea? Another easy and inexpensive way to learn something.

not too tight
Ravenwing, i think you misunderstood the issue. The paddle ferrule is too loose, not too tight. Washing will certainly help in maintenece and to make the joint easier to put together and take apart. Once it is too loose, your options are fix it yourself with epoxy (which actually works great if you do it right as mentioned above) or send it back to Werner, as you suggest, to have them repair/replace.

oh wait!
Raven, you’re right! I misunderstood, and i think others did as well!

My apologies. I read it as a wobbly joint that is fully engaged, but loose from wear.

But in rereading the OP, i see its a joint engagement issue and your advise is perfect. If the joint is not fully engaging (those little gears meshing completely) then you definitely want to rinse thoroughly.

You were right the first time
"I read it as a wobbly joint that is fully engaged, but loose from wear."

That’s correct. The joint is fully engaged. I “assume” it’s loose from wear.

Normally there should be a tight fit where the two halves of the paddle meet in the center, right? Presently there is a space about 1/32" and I can slide the two halves back and forth 1/32". When I bought the paddle I believe there was a tight fit.

Removing material would only make the problem worse, I assume. That’s why I’m wondering why washing would help, since, as you say, the joint is fully engaged.

believe she means that the button is not fully deployed because of dirt or other foreign minute matter…it would allow the paddle to not be fully together and tight.

No. It’s the opposite
The button is absolutely fully deployed.

So the ends of each paddle shaft half are not fully butted together at the joint. And yet the button clicks and the two halfs will not pull apart.

Too bad pic sharing is so hard on Pnet

This is a weird problem, I’d contact Werner if you haven’t already. No amount of epoxying will fix this and it doesn’t sound like a debris issue either if the button clicks and is fully engaged.

I’ve seen something like this with our rental paddles (Werner Skagits) when they get all mixed up and the sizes put together incorrectly. Could you have ended up with half of someone else’s paddle that has the exact same model? They tend to match ferrules together at the factory and make small changes to each paddle for exact fits.

Sort of
Correct, the button clicks normally, but then I can move the two parts back and forth a bit.

Now that I think about it, maybe this movement is necessary. The button has to fit into the hole, meaning it has to be slightly smaller than the hole. That might lead to a bit of movement. And I can imagine that the button could cause wear around the hole over time.

Maybe if someone else has a Werner paddle they could check and see if they have this movement at the joint.