Making composite boats spiffy again

Hey paddler land- I’ve got an NDK explorer (red over red) whose deck looks like it has frost on it which I understand is oxidation. Once, before a symposium, I used a polishing compound on the boat in addition to an application of 303 and it looked great for a few weeks, then returned to the “frosty” look. Do I need to get more aggress ive with the polishing and go to rubbing compound first to really eliminate the oxidation or what?

The duct tape over the wear-through spots on the stern and bow keels are not an issue- they are underwater when paddling and you can’t see them- I, in my vanity, are only concerned about the deck and fiberglass oxidation resulting from too much sun and miles on an explorer. Cheers---------------------Kevin

Gelcoat
NDK boats have lots of gelcoat so remove the decklines,wetsand with 600 sandpaper and rub down with polishing compound.The boat will look great for a long time to come.

This stuff works.
Poliglow. You will have to apply it every year or two, but a bottle will last a long time on a kayak.



You can also touch it up as it disolves itself.



http://www.poliglow-int.com/index2.phtml



You will need the kit with the poliprep and applicators.


New Glass
There’s a product that sailboaters used called New Glass or something like that. I’ve seen it used on a boat and it turned out looking like new. I don’t know how long it lasted.

"You can’t shine $h-t"
as my uncle was fond of saying…



The rub-on products are only temporary. What I would do is to strip the boat, sand the scratches with 400 grit then the boat with 600 and then 800. Switch to a POWER BUFFER with med grit compound and then with fine compound. Top off with a couple coats of good wax.



A bit of a job but you will have a new looking boat.

Rubbing Compound
I just used rubbing compound on my '01 Explorer’s blue deck. Wasn’t worried about all the beauty marks on the hull and it came out very nice. Rubbing compound is more abrasive than polishing compound, and I did use an inexpensive random orbit buffer with a terrycloth pad. Just keep it moving, don’t push down (much), take your time and you’ll be fine.

Stop buffing … go paddling
Get your boat wet and it will look shiny and new.



Who cares what it looks like sitting in the roof rack.

I’ve got instructions and pics…
…of a gelcoat restoration on a VCP Anas Acuta at:



http://community.webshots.com/user/brian_nystrom-reg



They’re on the second page of the gelcoat album.



I’ll warn you in advance that it’s a LOT of work; I probably put ~12 hours into this job. The end result was gorgeous (the pics don’t do it justice), but I only did it to see what was possible and I’m not sure I’d do it again. Additionally, it will only work on boats with heavy gelcoat, like VCP and NDK. On most boats, aggressive sanding will result in translucent spots in the gelcoat that would look horrible.

experience
Some years ago I had my VW Jetta in for a tuneup at the dealer. On the way back home, I was on the highway when I heard a sound like a gun shot and horrible shaking of the car. I lost engine power very soon and had to make my way, through traffic, to the side of the road. The incompetent techs at the dealership forgot to tighten the rear plugs. One of them shot through the engine block and into the hood. Another one got stuck in the engine block. I called AAA to tow me to a local shop who looked at it and wouldn’t touch it. I understood. This was not his fault. I called the dealer and had them tow it back to their shop at their expense, which they did. The argument, which I never won, was about what to do with the head. They wanted to drill out the threads and repair it. I wanted a new engine head. I argued all the way to the owner of the dealership and could not win. I gave up because I had not time and money to deal with lawyers. I was very unhappy though. In my case, the car was old and I ended up selling it after some time. But I decided then that I would never take a car to a dealer unless this was warranty work. I’ve had way too many problems with dealerships. I found an excellent independent mechanic who specialized in German cars and had wonderful service ever since.



Avi

experience
Some years ago I had my VW Jetta in for a tuneup at the dealer. On the way back home, I was on the highway when I heard a sound like a gun shot and horrible shaking of the car. I lost engine power very soon and had to make my way, through traffic, to the side of the road. The incompetent techs at the dealership forgot to tighten the rear plugs. One of them shot through the engine block and into the hood. Another one got stuck in the engine block. I called AAA to tow me to a local shop who looked at it and wouldn’t touch it. I understood. This was not his fault. I called the dealer and had them tow it back to their shop at their expense, which they did. The argument, which I never won, was about what to do with the head. They wanted to drill out the threads and repair it. I wanted a new engine head. I argued all the way to the owner of the dealership and could not win. I gave up because I had not time and money to deal with lawyers. I was very unhappy though. In my case, the car was old and I ended up selling it after some time. But I decided then that I would never take a car to a dealer unless this was warranty work. I’ve had way too many problems with dealerships. I found an excellent independent mechanic who specialized in German cars and had wonderful service ever since.



Avi

TRY A STARBRITE PRODUCT! :slight_smile:
I have had good luck with a Marine Grade product named “Starbrite Marine Polish with Teflon”. The Teflon in it helps keep it clean, and the polish is a chemical polish, not an abrasive polish.



It really takes off the oxidation, and keeps it looking nice. It states on the plastic bottle that it has “Extra UV Protectants” in it too, to protect from further oxidation.



If your deck is realy far gone, I can’t promise anything, but this stuff works well for me.



I put two coats on my deck and Hull, and it works wonders!



Since is is a Marine grade product, specifically designed for Gelcoat, Plexiglass, and plastics, it is safe to use, and designed for this purpose.



Several of us did reviews here on P-Net on this item, so read and believe! :slight_smile: