Minwax Sanding Sealer as paddle finish

Have any of you ever used Minwax Sanding Sealer on wood paddles. I have some newly made cedar paddles that have never had any finish. Do you know if this is a good product for outdoor use? Or will it hold up under sunlight?

Any reason to use this, rather than
Minwax 209 clear oil finish, which I’ve used for paddle handles?

I bought a can to do a desk and thought maybe I could use some on my paddles. The stuff goes on to the wood very well.

Here’s a definition I swiped.
“It fills the pores and hardens the fine ends of the grain so that when you sand it, the grain sands away smoothly. It provides an excellent base for finishes such as polyurethane, varnish, wax etc.”

Doesn’t sound like the stuff has any protective function on its own. It’s just used to make sanding easier and to provide a base for finishes. I saw comments that sanding sealers are seldom necessary. Maybe once in my woodworking activities did I use a sanding sealer.

I again suggest Minwax 209 Clear oil as a finish. You can apply many coats, patiently, and pretty much fill the surface grain, but the wood will still breathe easily.

lacquer sanding sealer correct ??

– Last Updated: Mar-25-10 11:59 PM EST –

...... it is strickly a grain sealer that has easy sanding properties and deep grain penetration , not to be used for finish top coat(s) . A sanding sealer in itself is not a durable finish even with multple coats .

Because it is a lacquer , it is thin . Lacquer is basically a term for "sprayable" viscosity finishes , that require multiple extra coats to develope a reasonable film thickness .

Many times I will just use cut coats for the initial 1st few coats (cut 25%-30% with mineral spirits) of the same product that will be used as the final finish .

Often a (lacquer type) sanding sealers or shellac are used as a seal coat over water base dyes or stain before finish top coats , if the finish top coats are to be a water base product ... this prevents the water base top coat from re-activating the water base dye or stain , and/or causing it to smear or change in it's tone .

Thanks for the help! I’ll plan on top coating with polyurethane.

You’ll end up with a slippery paddle

– Last Updated: Mar-26-10 10:39 AM EST –

There's a lot of personal preference involved in finishing paddles, but varnish will create a slippery finish that many people don't like. Oil or oil/varnish blends provide a much better feel IMO and I like the look better, too.

I'm really not sure sanding sealer is a great idea, either, as you want the finish to penetrate as deeply as possible into the end grain, in order to harden it and make the paddle tips more durable. This is assuming that you're not going to coat them with epoxy or another type of finish.

The paddle blades are epoxy/fiberglass, I’m talking about the shaft. Would you say oil definitely for the shaft?

My preference is an oil/varnish blend
Mix either boiled linseed oil or tung oil with varnish 50:50. You can wipe it on just like plain oil and the resulting finish will be similar (satin surface, nice feel), but it will be more durable.

What kind of varnish would you suggest for mixing with linseed oil?

It really doesn’t matter much…
…as long as it’s oil-based varnish. I’ve used conventional spar varnishes (like Epifanes) and polyurethanes, and they both work well. Just make sure that the varnish is designed for exterior use and you should be fine. There is no need to use a satin or matt varnish, as the oil takes the shine out of gloss varnish.

yeah , but exterior grade varnishes …
… and urethanes already have the oils in them , or have I missed something .

Those added oils (mfg.s choice of types and quanities) … are what makes Spar finishes different from the interior use class , correct ??

Adding extra linseed to a “Spar” varnish , is that a good thing to do ??

I’ve just never considered it for reasons mentioned above . What is the objective trying to be obtained by adding the extra oil to a Spar grade ??

To make it take longer to dry.

Varnishes are blends of oils and resins

– Last Updated: Mar-27-10 6:38 PM EST –

The differences between them are whether the oils and resins are natural (traditional varnish) or synthetic (polyurethane) and the proportions of the various components. Adding tung or linseed oil changes their properties, creating a satin finish that feels more like real wood, rather than like plastic.

And to counter tkoo's comment, no it doesn't make them take longer to cure (varnishes and oils don't "dry", they "cure" by combining with oxygen in the air). The varnishes I typically use take 24 hours to cure anyway, which is how long it takes "boiled" linseed oil or tung oil to cure. Adding "raw" linseed oil would increase the cure time, but there's no benefit to it so there's no point in using it.