Some nice chest to shoulder swells rolling out of the haze this morning, from the local disturbance that has blocked Florence from a northward track. Only three… then two… and then me out in the break. Plenty of quality but unclaimed rides. Reminder to not do ab workout the night before a dawn session. Was beginning to spasm and cramp from all the cutbacks and rolling.
Looks like Helene will be driving some long period, surfable swells our way by this weekend.
@Rookie said:
Cool looking ski. How far apart are those waves, generally?
The second period was the average interval recorded by Boston Buoy. The reality was separations that were shorter in some cases and longer with others. The preference is to pick a wave with longer running room in front of the face which provides room to manuoever and play. I would estimate an spacing of about 3-4 long boat lengths today for the better waves.
Ugh, got some weird type of infection on my neck, cellulitis, and am taking a course of antibiotics. Need to keep it clean and dry. Going to have to sit this one out.
Hope you’re getting out!
@Johnnysmoke said:
Ugh, got some weird type of infection on my neck, cellulitis, and am taking a course of antibiotics. Need to keep it clean and dry. Going to have to sit this one out.
Hope you’re getting out!
Get well. I think this weekend would be a perfectly relaxing surf day at even a beach break because of the smaller but long period (and more juiced) swells. Should be fun to be out at Nantasket this weekend given the more summer like conditions and diminished post Labor Day crowd. I may do this venue instead of risking my fin box on the rocky homebreak.
I forgot you mentioned getting an infinity ski, is that a stinger? Nice looking in the photo. How long, it looks a bit longer than mine that is 8’4" I think. I’ve dedicated a month to surfing my waveski, may do the Ventura contest this year if I don’t injure myself by the middle of next month. We have gotten some clean surf with decent waves, I am much better on the ski than SUP, but I forgot what a beating you take in big surf when you are strapped on the board when things don’t go the way you want.
Had a stunning morning at Nantasket. The medium-long period swells with a gentle diagnonal offshore breeze made for beautiful, clean peeling breaks that don’t happen much at a beach break like 'tasket. Lots of surfers but, with a beach break, so much room. I found a sand bar/hump a farther out that had the waves stacked and peeling and then mellowing slightly in the deeper water closer to shore. The wave would then steepen and peel again with the shallowing bottom towards the beach. Made for a pretty long ride, if one can anticipate the mellowing part and keep an active paddle to stay with the wave. Although the waves were only waist to chest, there were zip and juice them for some fun rides. The paddle out was also leisurely with some much room between the waves.
@SeaDart said:
I forgot you mentioned getting an infinity ski, is that a stinger? Nice looking in the photo. How long, it looks a bit longer than mine that is 8’4" I think. I’ve dedicated a month to surfing my waveski, may do the Ventura contest this year if I don’t injure myself by the middle of next month. We have gotten some clean surf with decent waves, I am much better on the ski than SUP, but I forgot what a beating you take in big surf when you are strapped on the board when things don’t go the way you want.
Wow. Cool that you still want to do the contest scene. Is Ventura part of the US Waveski sponsored events?
My stinger is 9’x26", same dimensions on paper as my Island longboard ski. However, it’s got more width and volume in the nose where I hardly ever pearl and find popping over the foam piles easy. My Island does sharper cutbacks because of the lower volume rails and 3 fin set up. The infinity can also do cutbacks, but in a more loopy fashion with it’s big single fin set up. I am enjoying it. It’s a faster more leisurely ride.
@Johnnysmoke said:
Sounds awesome! Glad you’re getting out, good to hear Nantasket is delivering the goods.
Still a lot of groundswell out there. Likely, lingering from Helene and Joyce. The ghost of Florence now expected pass out into Atlantic over us. That is going to churn some stuff up too.
Trying to rearrange work stuff Friday morning to allow for a long dawn-to-morning patrol.
I still have a nickel sized hole in my neck I’m hoping heals up well enough to get out sometime at the end of this week. Been laying low trying to take it easy while the antibiotics do their thing. Could try putting a waterproof bandage on it but don’t want to aggravate it, I guess staph infections are something you don’t want to play around with.
So if I don’t get out for this one I’ll get out for whatever comes around next. When I’m fully waterproof again, might take the surf boat out for a flat water paddle to get comfortable in it again, and polish up my roll. Just spending an hour paddling around in flat water gets the old core going. Sprint for 12 strokes, do a few rolls, then try to sprint again. Just paddling the surf boat straight can be challenging. All goes a long way when the waves do come back again.
Hope you get a few more sweet September sessions!
BTW. There was older guy surfing a ww boat while I was out. Don’t know the boat brand, but the guy said it had a drop down skeg. Didn’t seem to make much of a difference as he was surfing pretty much straight in. Once in awhile he seemed to have a slight diagonal going in and then losing the hold. Still, he didn’t run anyone over. So, no prob.
Reminder to not do ab workout the night before a dawn session. Was beginning to spasm and cramp from all the cutbacks and rolling. 