Kinda the point of my post
I strive for one side, but sometimes…
Well, we all do that at times
Looks like Harold was losing his angle on that upstream ferry he was making just above that little drop. A stern pry on the left side would have reestablished his angle, but introduced enough drag that he would have probably gone downstream over the drop. The cross-bow forward sweep is not a very strong stroke and the cross-stern draw is even weaker and cross-forwards alone wouldn’t have reestablished the upstream angle.
It’s funny. Harold told Vern and I he could only run the Mile because he had to get back to the WPASCR. But notice who stopped and played in all the rapids after Vern and I went straight through. Oh well, it was a pleasure watching him.
Hey Pete
I knew all that. Just having a little fun at Harold’s expense. Heck if you video’d me you see a regular occurrence, and Clarion…fuggedaboutit
idiosyncratic
– Last Updated: Jul-13-10 10:17 AM EST –
Harold Deal is one of the better paddlers I've ever seen, and what he can do in the Shaman is truly amazing. That said, it is an idiosyncratic hull.
Harold wants to pitch the hull forward for forward speed and tracking and weight aft to lift the bow and spin. This is exactly the reverse to the way 95% of available solo canoes perform, when we sit back to drop the stern for tracking and pitch bow forward to skid the stern.
Shaman is not wrong, but it, and other WW hulls like it, requires a new hard-wiring of what most of us do the get given result.
Actually, CE, my slalom c-1 and my
Mad River Synergy OC-1/2 both work just like the Shaman. Most swedeform ww boats are paddled that way.
We lean forward to nest the bow in the water and part the water better, and we lean back to lift the bow so we can maneuver it.
On the skidding part, these boats already skid way too easily. To run an upstream gate, just as the boat is threatening to skid, I lean back and out to engage the side of the stern and to try to keep some of the boat’s momentum. This changes what would be an out-of-control skid into a controlled turn.
Now, the new fishform OC-1s, like those from millbrookboats.com, are paddled more like the way you describe. Taking the Esquif Spark and its prototype the Ignitor, they have tapering sterns that aid directionality and such speed as they can manage. The paddler sits up or a bit back to hustle between gates. Because the bow is bulbous and kind of flat underneath, the paddler can throw the bow to one side or another easily. But if, for some reason, the paddler realises that the boat is pointing the wrong way and must be corrected quickly, the paddler leans forward to unload that tapered stern and pivot it around the fat bow.
Before finalising the outfitting on my MR Synergy, swedeform even though MR said it was fishform, I took it to the river and paddled it sitting in both directions. Sure enough, paddled “backwards” it behaved like a fishform boat, with a loose bow. Paddled “normally”, the front 60% of the boat wants to track, and the Swede in the back tends to cause skids unless I lean back to lock in a chine on turns.
Confused
Above, PBlanc described the Shaman as having edged chines in the forward part of the boat, and more rounded chines in the mid-section and stern.
This would indicate to me that Deal intended the boat to be leaned forward to engage those bow edges to enhance carved turns.
Maybe not. My slalom boat has chines
forward but only a bit of chine in the stern. To throw a turn into an upstream gate, one leans back to slice the stern under.
My MR Synergy has fairly rounded chines throughout, but for a turn through an upstream gate, I can lean back and outward, and the stern will bite and accelerate the turn.
There is a certain degree of tubularity, or hull roundness, that makes leaning back, catching the outside stern, and carving impossible. My old Hahn was like that. Also, and more confusing, is that really sharp chines are associated with hull looseness. But none of my boats has chines that sharp. May the new Esquif L’Edge will demonstrate that effect.
This is all complicated, but except to initiate an eddy turn, I don’t find leaning forward helpful for carving.
To be clear, g2d
None of your experiences that you are describing are in a Shaman, correct?
I’m not questioning your experiences in other boats in upstream gates.
I’m more wondering whether CEW’s summary of how Deal intended the Shaman to be paddled is accurate.
My (admittedly very dim) recollection of paddling Harold’s composite Shaman in the Neversink Gorge about 12 years ago is that you could pivot turn it just like other the other soft chined WW boats of the time, or you could supposedly carve turn it by engaging the forward chines. Never having been an edged-boat paddler, I probably didn’t try the carve technique often enough in that one Shaman run to evaluate its performance in that respect.
Freestyle flatwater canoeists pitch the bow down by scooting their weight, or entire bodies, forward off the seat in order to facilitate stern sliding turns. I’m not aware that WW boaters do that in any boat in order to paddle straight. WW boaters are locked into position on non-sliding seats.
I opted not to buy the Shaman after that run because, other than the light composite weight, I couldn’t really differentiate the Shaman’s handling that much from my Encore, at least for my style of river running.
the designer’s write-up
– Last Updated: Jul-13-10 12:20 PM EST –
Got this from Harold:
SOME FEATURES, TECHNICAL INFO and PADDLING TIPS for the SHAMAN 12
Technical playboating, whitewater freestyle, upstream attainments, playing rapids in a slalom-like manner - all ways of describing some excellent exercises for boaters to develop or challenge their skills. It can also be fun just reading the water and feeling how it effects the boat's motion.
The SHAMAN responds very well when paddled naturally, or in a conventional style. The hull's basic simplicity yields a user friendly playboat that lets you focus on enjoying the river.. Becoming familiar with its handling characteristics should be quick and pleasant.
A blend of complimentary design features distinguish the SHAMAN 12 from other boats in its class. Gradually integrating these features and tips into your paddling will allow you to experience a higher performance level. Remember, experimenting and discovery are part of the joy of paddling.
Dynamic trim sensitivity allows the paddler to actively change the waterline footprint. Applying deliberate but subtle stern weight shifts or knee pressure to engage selected segments of the hull will change water flow characteristics and therefore the boat's reaction to currents and paddle strokes. The overall performance range is broader because of the asymmetrical rocker and waterline. Weight focus is on the bow section for forward speed, the stern section for spinning and maximum maneuverability.
The slender shape is comfortable to paddle and is a contributing factor to the SHAMAN'S superb speed and glide. Natural extension during the forward stroke places the traveling emphasis on the sleek bow. A defined entry at the waterline reduces frontal resistance and enhances directional stability by directing the water flow. Outstanding bow control can be achieved by combining knee pressure and appropriate stroke placement for the desired turning effect. Snappier eddy turns are possible when crossing mellow eddy lines by putting pressure on the outside knee and catching the bow chine. This may take some practice to get used to but can be done smoothly because of the soft chines and flared sides. The crisper the eddy line, the more dynamic the turn gets. Relative hull speed also effects the dynamics. Start mild and work up. It soon becomes part of your paddling style. Classic inside leans remain the appropriate way to cross the more invigorating eddy lines. Outside leans can initiate carved turns or spins too. Edging is usually, but not always, complimented with a control stroke or turning stroke in the bow area. Hull speed must be sufficient with neutral resistance on both sides of the bow to be the most effective. This can be done with finesse and eliminate some turning strokes, but a stern correction stroke will be needed if too much pressure is allowed to build up on the opposing side. Using knee pressure can also help make minor adjustments in ferry angles by catching or releasing current flow on the bow.
Develop the habit of leaning back to achieve the best turning characteristics. That is the biggest difference in paddling the SHAMAN. Major directional changes like spinning are executed with some stern lean to release the bow. The spin zone is actually behind the center of the boat so the paddler's torso becomes the pivot point. Turning strokes are often placed in the bow section and modified as needed, but it is important to shift upper body weight toward the stern for maximum maneuverability. The sensation is vaguely like a stern pivot with the bow being controlled in a sweeping motion. Torso weight is naturally shifted behind center during stern correction strokes. More deliberate stern leans may be used for aggressive turns. Surfing steeper waves or lifting the bow over a wave crest or hydraulic are other examples. Tweaking the bow to the side of a wave crest or blocking waves are good tactics for keeping dry. It is usually counterproductive to lean forward to spin the boat, except sometimes when utilizing current differentials. Dropping the bow or stern on the edge of an eddy, or into the corner of a hydraulic, or the face of a wave can also initiate a spin. Reverse strokes slow the boat in fast current so you can set up a spin or a backferry for sideslipping obstacles. Additional volume in the stern actually enhances overall stability in bigger water. Stern strokes are used more often in these conditions too. Leans are adjusted as needed throughout playboating situations. Typically they are subtle or completely natural. Control strokes executed in the bow area make adjustments in the boat's direction while providing some forward momentum. Stern strokes are stronger and more effective when maximum correction is needed.
A shallow arch bottom, soft primary chines and flared sides from bow to stern permit you to roll the boat up to block waves with confidence. The feel is consistent and predictable. The flare also deflects chop. The weight bearing knee is comfortably positioned so the center of gravity can be concentrated over the lowest part of the hull when leaned up. The boat firms up at the shoulder giving a steady reference point and optimum overall final stability. The SHAMAN 12 is smooth and forgiving in squirrelly water or when side surfing, working diagonal hydraulics during upstream attainments and so on. These characteristics minimize bracing so the paddler can focus on active strokes.
Mohawk outfitting positions the saddle and knee cups or pads to best take advantage of these design features. Be sure to refer to our recommendations if outfitting the SHAMAN 12 yourself.
Mild streams, technical rapids or big water - your personal goals will determine where you choose to paddle. With practice, you can paddle with precision and fluidity. Work in harmony with the river's features.
Timing and placement of strokes are related to efficiency. Develop an awareness of how body movements, paddle sensitivity and energy transfer among muscle groups all effect the boat's reaction. Selectively combining the appropriate control signals creates a more effective response. Anticipate and set up your moves in advance. Practice and fine tune your skills on flat water and mellow rapids. Physical conditioning, muscle memory and quicker reflexes are additional benefits of repetitive practice.
There are several good instructional books and videos available covering up-to-date playboating techniques. You may also want to seek qualified instruction if you have limited paddling experience.
Paddle safely,
Harold Deal
I’m confident that what I say is correct
Weight shift strategy in ww OC-1s is just about the same for the Shaman, the Encore, the Outrage, the Ocoee, the Rival, etc. One leans forward some to engage the bow and paddle fast. One leans back to disengage the bow and to tip the stern outward to hasten an eddy turn. Depending on the hull shape, some ww boats will respond better than others, but they will all respond similarly. Only perhaps in the fishform boats (Spark, Ignitor, etc.) might there be a change in weight shift strategy.
Thanks for that Deal writeup
He’s using a lot of words to help market the shorter Royalex Shaman, but let’s assume he would say the same about paddling techniques for the longer composite Shaman–although it is necessarily more difficult to pitch a longer waterline than a shorter one.
I think Deal is saying that the Shaman paddles mostly like a regular WW boat, which was my experience and what I think g2d is saying.
He is, however, pointing out two subtle techniques that can be tried for eddy turns. Lean a little bit further back on the stern volume for (inside) pivot turns; or, the opposite, lean a little bit more forward to engage the bow chines for (outside) carved turns.
As to paddling forward, I again don’t see any basic difference from the technique used in other WW boats. Deal suggests that the that the narrow bow waterline can aid forward paddling. But that’s simply a result of the exaggerated forward-leaning-catch technique used by WW boaters to accelerate. As Deal puts it (emphasis mine): “NATURAL EXTENSION during the forward stroke places the traveling emphasis on the sleek bow.”
He’s not suggesting that the paddler do something unusual to paddle forward–such as the stern pitching that flatwater canoeists do with sliding seats or body or gear repositions. He’s just saying that the sharp, low volume bow will help direct the forward vector when the WW paddler takes a natural forward stroke.