Does anyone ever done that themselves and how can it be done?
You need to explain yourself more
Are you talking Gel Coat, skid plate, epoxy ???
Explain the problem and you will probably get a lot of good answers.
Is your wood, canvas, cement, metal,
plastic, composite, plexiglass, … ?
Is the present “protective coating” clear coat, painted, gel coated, lead paste, pigmented resin, varnish, … ?
What are you actually asking about here?
Wow! I guess I am a bit naive about that
All I can say is that the outer matetial of my canoe is very easy to crunch into tiny pieces upon a small impact with a rock wich leads to water infiltration. Its probably the chepeast material someone can get for a canoe but I am emotionaly linked to it so I would like to try give it a second life with an extra coat. I dont know the exact material but what I can say is that it has the texture of dryed/aged grenn plastic (sounds awful I know).
"dryed/aged grenn plastic" makes me think of something that really can't be fixed, like maybe a Coleman canoe. Can you tell us the brand name of this boat? That will probably get you some suggestions. I don't think I'm going very far out on a limb to suggest that you might not miss paddling this boat nearly as much as you think if you can get your hands on a used boat made with better materials, since that usually means a better design.
With that in mind, the question "what canoe should I buy" is a common one, and a search of the archives will get you some good answers, or you could tell us how you use the boat and ask right now.
If the hull is in such bad shape as you say, a good repair is likely to add a lot of weight. I think you'd be hard-pressed to find a way to justify resurrecting this beast. Of course I'm speculating a bit, based on what I think you are saying about the boat's condition.
It does sound fatel. If it a plastic and
doing as you discribed it is probably has been badly abused (like stored in the direct sun far too long) or is very-very old, and is most likely too brittle to use more than in calm water near shore.
If you can get the name, model, and/or serial number that would be helpful. The serial number is most important as it will give manufacturer and year built. The serial no. is suppose to be under the right gunwale (wood, metal, or plastic trim and structure support running along tops of the sides of the hull) near the stern (rear)either inside or outside the hull. It may be written on or scratched into the hull. It may be on a tag or plate attached to the hull. It should be 12 plus or minus alphanumeric characters. If hard to see and etched in take a tracing onto paper with flat pencil lead or crayon.
There is suppose to be a second serial number as well, but it will be hidden under something on the craft, just as hidden VIN on cars. You would have to remove parts to find it. In this case probably not worth the effort.
Hope this helps get you more answers, questions, answers, ...
I ll get back with more info
Thanks everyone for inputs.
I ll be back with more precise info such as canoe type/brand, serial number etc.
I used to
work with a maintenance mechanic who used to patch his “whitewater coleman” by melting plastic from a milk jug onto the hole. How he got it hot enough but not too hot I don’t know.
I have heard of that
I have read somewhere about using milk jugs. I forget where it was and how, but ihave heard of it. I was just going to say to fiberglass the outside a few layers, mostly on the bottom and the bow. it wouldn’t be the best fix, but i woudl think it would prolong it’s life.
Just like melting P-tex into the dings
and gouges in the bottom of snow skis. Light the P-tex which burns like a candle with hot molten plastic running off which you would drips into the damaged areas, cools, and sticks tight. Slice off the extra and you are done. Have a hunch the milk bottles will do the same thing. And fix the hull as you mentioned.
Someone want to try lighting a milk jug and letting us know. I would, but we do not drink milk and have no milk bottles around.