I recently acquired a Jackson Journey 13.5
The kayak has all of the rigging for a smart track rudder from the plastic tubing for the toe controls and rudder deployment line, as well as the smart track foot pegs and tracks and cords for deployment control. What would would I need to get a rudder installed and back in operation with this system? Below I’ve attached some photos of the rigging on my kayak.
Please, no responses about why I don’t need a rudder. I would like to have one installed as a safety option should conditions get rough.
But if it’s possible to rig an inexpensive rudder up if I just buy the smart track toe controls, I’d be interested to know. I don’t mind spending the time rigging something if it means I can save money.
Smart Track also makes fixed foot braces for non-rudder kayaks. It looks like that’s what you have:
To get a rudder, you would need a complete rudder kit, maybe like this one (there’s a cheaper one but it’s sold out):
Plus you would need some sort of mount for the stern of the kayak. Maybe like this one:
I don’t know if the example items I listed are the best for your use. I just chose them as examples of the types of items you need.
I wouldn’t invest that much in that kayak, but if you want a rudder you might try a cheap kit like this (you still also need a separate mount for the stern of the kayak):
You don’t need to have foot control for a rudder. I’ve owned 6 kayaks with rudders and none were “steerable” – they had fixed foot pegs and the rudder was either folded up out of the way on the stern deck or I could lower it by releasing the cable for it (that ran along the gunnel near the front of the cockpit) from where it was jammed in the tightening slot and letting the rudder drop straight into a fixed position. One rudder had two separate cables that could pull it to starboard or port, one on each side of the cockpit that I could release manually. I took the rudder off that boat because it kept getting stuck pivoted at 30 degrees or more in one direction or another which made it a pain to paddle. And I hate how a rudder flipped up onto the deck catches the wind and how it can make self rescues more difficult.
A rudder isn’t supposed to be used to steer the kayak, anyway: a kayak isn’t a sailboat. Though being able to pivot it is sometimes useful in overcoming winds or currents hitting you at an angle, such as paddling parallel to a sea coast or crossing a wide windy channel. But, again, a well fitted and ballasted boat designed with an open water hull, combined with good paddling technique can counter those forces, without a rudder.
Maybe explain what your understanding is of a rudder being “a safety option if things get rough.” Honestly, rudders are rare on kayaks as short as yours (13.5 feet). If you are planning to paddle out on large windy lakes, coastal areas or bays where there is a lot of reach and potential for strong waves and currents, you would be wise to consider a longer kayak instead of spending several hundred on a rudder without knowing if you really need one. Have you paddled extensively in open water with a ruddered kayak?
Yes, I know that Jackson markets the 13.5 as a “open water kayak” and suggests the optional rudders will “help with steering”. I disagree with their advice and I have owned two kayaks that were 13’ 6" and 13’ 9", also 24" beam like yours – one had a skeg but neither needed a rudder. I paddled both in sheltered coastal bays and some lakes with sizeable reach, but would not use boats that short in open water any distance from shore. In fact I removed the rudder from several of the kayaks I’ve had that came with them because of the drag and extra weight.
If you are a newer kayaker it is preferable to develop paddling skills, preferably with instruction, so you can control your boat with efficient strokes, edging and body position. Reliance on a rudder to steer or because you have trouble controlling tracking by your strokes is going to limit developing efficient form.
I’ll link this article where a very experienced sea kayaker goes into depth about the pros and cons of rudders. I leave it up to you to decide whether or not you actually think you need one or if it might be more problem than it’s worth for a kayak like yours.
Your Journey has different molded in shapes at the tail than I’ve seen before (not that I’m an expert), but I think it has a non-standard attachment. You might have difficulty getting a generic rudder attached to it. Also, the official rudder kit from Jackson, at $200, really isn’t that expensive for a slam-dunk solution.
I think it makes sense, as willowleaf suggests, to paddle your new ride a bit before investing in a rudder. You might find you don’t need one (or, and this is unlikely, that the entire boat isn’t quite what you are looking for), and you can apply that money to another part of the dream …
I would not recommend a Smart-track rudder system. Instead I would go with a Sea-lect system. They’re pretty much interchangeable as far as mounting. My wife started out with a Smart-track rudder on her QCC600 kayak as it was included. We went through 3 sets of cables due to the way the footpegs route the cables. There are too many sharp bends. Further, the aluminum foot assemblies corroded in salt water and the bolts froze making installing the new cables a nightmare. We switched out the pedal assemblies a few years ago on the advice of Annapolis Canoe & Kayak and Topkayaker and have had no problems since. The Sea-Lect rudder kit comes with all parts and complete installation instructions.
The Smart-track rudder itself was fine. We left it in place, but the Sea-lect is probably fine as well.
I agree with @willowleaf that a rudder is probably not that essential on a kayak that short but disagree with the article by Brian Day. He has based his conclusions on the Valley Pintail, which never came with a rudder, it comes with a skeg, and the Sea Lion which handled very poorly without the included rudder and now only comes with a skeg.
I do really appreciate all the input, but I did explicitly ask to not answer with why I don’t need a rudder. I’m just hoping for technical advice.
To answer some questions, I don’t kayak in the ocean so salt and corrosion are not concerns for me. I kayak about 2-3 days a week 10 miles is my average outing. I don’t intend on using the rudder to “steer the kayak”, I intend on A: occasionally using it like a skeg to improve tracking in windy conditions B: very rarely correct for weather cocking in the unlikely event I run into unpredicted/unforcasted weather. It seems counterintuitive to tell me I shouldn’t bother with a rudder since I have a “short” 13.5’ boat when I see 9-12’ fishing barges with rudders all time, and the shorter the boat typically the worse they are at tracking straight.
That said, I’m not looking for a discussion or lecture on rudders and boat lengths, rather input from anyone familiar with the Smart Track system since I can’t seem to find specific model numbers, diagrams or schematics anywhere online and their website looks like it hasn’t been updated since 1997.
My boat already has smart track foot pegs, they just don’t have the toe pedals. The stern has two nylon threaded ports. All of the cable housing is already installed. I ordered the toe controls and steel cables. I emailed Jackson to see if they can give me more info on what particular model the boat is set up for, but I’m not holding my breath on hearing back.
Here’s an unrelated photo from yesterday’s paddle on my 10’ Joyride
I do appreciate your input Willow, but this is one of those things where I have the money now to outfit myself and I’d like to experience using it in my own boat in order to determine if it’s something I want. I don’t mind spending the money when it comes to outdoors hobbies, my passion used to be in road cycling which was not an inexpensive passion
Much like my experience cycling where I started on a Walmart beach cruiser and worked my way up to a $5.5k carbon road bike while branching out to mountain and gravel biking, I’d like to naturally progress my passion of kayaking through play, growth, trial and error.
Every hobby has its snobs and purists it’s to be expected. I don’t think anyone here in particular is being snobby, everyone has their own opinions and preferences. But there are people who think their way is the only way, or look down on others for enjoying something in a different way. I’m very much used to it coming from a cycling background, road cyclists can be huge snobs. Got to take it with a grain of salt. But I’ve found most people in the kayaking community to be pretty cool.
I think the biggest trouble is internet culture, it seems like people in general are chomping at the bit to tell you that you’re wrong. For example, someone could ask for advice on a first kayak for a novice, you’ll get wildly varying answers from “you should start with a stable rec yak in the 10’ range” to “you shouldn’t bother with anything under 14’” and then the discussion devolves into infighting between the people trying to give advice. It’s important to know the persons background, location, skill level or how often they recreate etc. I knew I’d get some opinions on this post because rudders are largely divisive, camp is split between people who refuse to look at them and people who consider them essential.
I appreciate your thoughtful reply, @jeremysart. I share your perspective re road bikers (I was one some years ago, but have shifted to gravel). And those who think their way is the only way are deceiving only themselves.
I stand by my experience that the Smart-track padal system, as designed, puts excessive wear on the cables leading to premature failure due to the way the cables are routed.
This often comes up when people ask for feedback but really just want validation of what they are going to do anyway (and don’t want to hear about potential downsides). Note: I am not commenting on the OP here, just the lurker who likes to be snotty.
This throwing shade sometimes happens when a newbie has limited experience with what they are planning so one would think they would appreciate the pro and con heads ups instead of getting their shorts in a twist. There are a lot of us on here who take the time to share our personal perspectives on the intricacies of paddling and outfitting our boats. Of course we have different experiences and preferences. I try to be specific as to why I am offering my opinion, backing it up with what I’ve found with similar boats in various situations and offering pros and cons. The inquirers are welcome to take it or leave it. Why is it “snobbish” to share information based on 50 years on the water (and accumulated learning from others with extensive experience), including 22 years of that outfitting and paddling 17 different models of sea kayaks, on whitewater streams, sea coasts (Atlantic, Pacific and Caribbean), Great Lakes, fjords and countless streams and rivers? I’ve gotten great advice and benefitted hugely from folks on here in the years I’ve been on the forums and appreciated their sharing their vast knowledge. I would not think of referring to someone with more than or the same background in a subject as me as a “snob” when they took the effort to provide feedback.
Bottom line(s) for anyone to whom I share what has worked for me: it’s their money, it’s a free country and their experience may vary.
