Need to add ferrule to GP

-- Last Updated: Mar-31-07 12:19 AM EST --

I have a nice 90 inch laminated (including the shaft/loom) Mitchell Horizon GP, but need to take about 4 inches off the length. The ends are finished, so I don't desire to cut them, and the loom is particularly long on this brand of GP. So, I am thinking of cutting the necessary extra length out of the loom and adding a ferrule.

I know there is a brand or website where I can purchase a GP ferrule. Does anyone have a link or suggestion?

Any suggestions on securely mounting the ferrule on th wooden loom?

Here is a nice thread from September 2006 started by my fellow paddler b-brasil (thank for the nice OI pics, bb. I'm gonna get one but cannot find even one near me), but although I see several suggestions for pre-made/purchased GP take-aparts (TAPs), I do not see where to buy and how to install a ferrule to convert a single GP to a TAP. I believe the Mitchell would tolerate the conversion well, as the loom shaft is very nicely laminated for strength.

Thanks in advance for your comments.

ferrule available here

I can’t offer any advice about how to install it though.


No, No,not my.

– Last Updated: Mar-31-07 12:40 PM EST –

old GP. I am sure that loom is not round,and getting a ferrule to fit the exact shape will be hard. The only way would to be ,chuck it somehow in a lathe,and part cut to length & turn the shaft round where the ferrule goes. I am afraid that will leave a edge that would have to be blended into the ferrule. That would leave a lumpy looking,as well as feeling shaft. Part of a Greenland paddle useage requires sliding the hand down the loom for extended braces,et. That wouldn't feel right,and may be rough on the hands.In my opinion it would have to be done to exact tolerances,so it wouldn't be floppy,and ruin a good paddle.If transortation is your issue, just bungie between the crossbars of your rack. That's how I hauled it. If it was cut any shorter it would be a storm paddle. A take apart GP,just isn't right,sorry that's how I feel,but it's yours now.

Happy Paddling billinpa

I have
a very nice two piece GP made by Don Beale. It works and feels just fine.

But that’s a…
factory made model,made for TAP purpose. Taking the one he has ,and converting it would be horrible,unless great care,and expertise were used.

Happy Paddling billinpa

Somehow I don’t think Don would consider his little operation to be quite to the factory level.

Precision would be nice, but I’d settle for straight - and thickened epoxy can cure a lot of imperfections (most of which would be hidden inside the ferrule anyway if done right).

Getting the paddle to the right overall length and loom size is well worth the effort IMO. Particularly if there is a hardwood center in their laminations. Otherwise, I wouldn’t do it. Also, odds are that anyone who could do this well would be better off just making a new paddle.

Yes, center of loom will no longer be oval or rounded rectangle (unless you get fancy) - but only one hand at a time’s on it so you’re still indexed for rolls/braces/sweeps/etc. I extend doing these things, but they’re also a small percentage of my overall strokes/paddling time.

Thanks for some nice ideas.

– Last Updated: Apr-01-07 12:39 AM EST –

I think the internal male-female idea, eric, is a fine one, but the shaft is laminated nicely and that might, especially over time, delaminate and become loose.

billinpa, yes, although this is indeed your former beloved Mitchell, I assure you athat I would do a nice job of it. The Mitchell is 90 inches, and too long for me by about 4" by GP standards (either total top reach or the one arm span and a cubit rule). Now here is where the Mitchell is forgiving, because it has a soft shoulder, and it has IMO a very wide loom. I think the loom on this is something like 22 inches! So that leaves me a very nice method to cut out a center piece and rejoin as a TAP. I think I would not need a lathe, just a sander and gentle time to fit it nicely to the ferrule. And yes, the ferrule is round, but I will have to work the wood to round by sanding, and then install the ferrule, and as Greyak mentions, epoxy in the ferrule is very forgiving. I know it would fit me better and be a paddle I could use for years in my 21 inch beamed boats.

:-) Thanks, sharonmb is the only one to have a link for a ferrule purchase, so that might be the one. I just wanted to make sure I am using a quality ferrule to make my efforts worthwhile, not one that will hav a loosenin at the "button" where it feathers. Technically, no need a feathering feature.

Make your own …

– Last Updated: Apr-01-07 9:38 AM EST –

Create jig to hold each blade ( and would be 1/2 of paddle ) as stock that you can pick up / set down with them still relative to original position ..... make sure said jigs hold entire paddle firmly at least 3" off the flat table ..... cut shaft where you like it, and shape match loom as desired while checking for fit by placing blades back in their positioning jigs.

Once settled on loom shape wax both halves, match / mate together one last time with jigs, and wrap 4+ " up each one with 6 -10 plys of glass depending on weight of glass .... if jigs are solid, compress glass with peel ply. Double check positioning and let cure all the way ...... pull new ferule off , clean up and bond one end back on de waxed / prepped loom half. Spring button EZ to set up too .... call me if you want less than synapsized details on how to.

I made a GP with a carbon ferrule a few months ago for a friend. It was my first time adding a ferrule and it wasn’t that difficult at all. For me it was actually the most enjoyable part of making that paddle. It was attached with thickened epoxy which also filled any imperfections. I got the ferrule from The loom is rounded over where it meets the ferrule to make the joint smooth. The ferrule is shorter than the loom so your hands don’t rest on it anyway. Here are some pictures of the process.