The examples show the limited market and poor resale value of long boats, selling for a quarter or third of their initial cost. He can probably sell his viper for $50 below what he paid for it!
Hmm. I actually think it’s just that most people who buy on Craigslist are looking for a deal, and probably don’t have much money, so higher-end items are subject to a bigger discount. But I’m sure that depends some on where you’re located.
Anyway the aim is for the OP to get a boat he likes at a price he can afford. All I’m saying is that, whatever boat length he prefers, he can get a much better one for the same money if he is willing to wait and look a bit to buy used.
@Doggy Paddler said:
Hmm. I actually think it’s just that most people who buy on Craigslist are looking for a deal, and probably don’t have much money, so higher-end items are subject to a bigger discount. But I’m sure that depends some on where you’re located.Anyway the aim is for the OP to get a boat he likes at a price he can afford. All I’m saying is that, whatever boat length he prefers, he can get a much better one for the same money if he is willing to wait and look a bit to buy used.
Tru dat.
Actually, the seat backs in most of the later model Easky’s are made to fold down to be backband width and mounting height, below the coaming. Or they can be removed and replaced with a backband. I’ve always kept mine folded down and it doesn’t interfere with a spray skirt.
Didn’t see anybody pushing a $2000 boat. We were urging consideration of used boats. I’ve also found good touring boats for under $400 – requires being patient and knowing what to look for (plus showing up fast with cash, knowing how to make an offer and having a way to haul the boat.) Over the years I’ve picked up (for myself and friends) a great Dagger Magellan for $350, a Perception Monterey 14.5 for $400, a Necky Looksha 17 for $600 (both the last two came with good PFDs and Werner paddles), an Aquaterra Scimitar for $325, a beat up but functioning Aquaterra Chinook for $75, a Venture Easky 15 for $600 and 5 different folding kayaks for less than half their new price.
Thanks for confirming my point with more examples.
I’ve bought lots of stuff on Craigslist for great prices. It doesn’t necessarily mean those things have poor resale value. It might just mean the seller is in a hurry, isn’t knowledgeable about what they have, or doesn’t care much about getting the maximum value. Also we all can agree that a new kayak, like a new car, loses a lot of value the moment you drive, or paddle it away. That’s why to advise buying used.
If you’re patient and look around you can find some outstanding deals on CL and Paddling.com. I recently purchased a fiberglass Betsy Bay Recluse for $200. Needed some minor work and $120 in materials (foam seat, deck lines and deck plates), but at 10% of the cost of a new boat it’s worth it. Looked like crap when I bought it but with some rubbing compound she looks pretty good. Years ago the seller had health problems and stopped paddling - he just wanted to get rid of it.
@willowleaf said:
Longer means you paddle with less effort to glide farther – why wouldn’t you want a more leisurely ride?.
I agree with virtually all of willowleaf’s advice, but this statement is not always correct. Longer boats have more frictional drag than shorter boats, so paddling with less effort is only a true statement at relatively high speed (say, over 3 or 4 knots). It’s well-established that below 3 knots, shorter boats paddle with less effort. At low speeds resistance is dominated by friction, so shorter boats have an advantage. At higher speeds, resistance is dominated by wave-making where longer boats have the advantage.
If a paddler doesn’t anticipate going fast very often, a 14 or 15 ft boat is likely a better choice than 17 ft. or more. The OP is big, but there are plenty of mid-length boats that would serve well - my Q400 is an example, there are loads of others. Brian Schulz at Cape Falcon has a good discussion on boat selection - it’s focused on skin boats, but the discussion on length and speed is relevant for any kayak, here under ‘modern kayaks’:
http://www.capefalconkayaks.com/choosing-a-kayak.html
PS absolutely agree with everyone about used boats - many paddlers cycle through many used boats to find what they love. I think I’ve probably been through 8, which is not many compared to others here.
Yeah, it does depend on a lot of factors other than absolute length. My fastest boat (at any speed compared to people in other shorter kayaks) is also my longest – 18’ – but it’s a narrow beamed Greenland replica that has a shorter actual waterline (probably closer to 16’), a skegged keel and weighs 31 pounds, also low-decked so it’s not much affected by wind. A good bit of the ease of straight-line paddling on rivers and lakes is tracking well so you don’t have to do a lot of correcting.
Some kayak metrics detail for the OP:
http://www.kayarchy.com/html/01equipment/004seakayakdesign.htm
After all this and Tchuck’s photos, I’m ready for an inflatable.
That Feathercraft Java Chuck and Paris use is a cool boat. Occasionally see used ones come up for sale – I hesitated and lost buying one about 6 months ago.
Bunch of good info here guys. Thanks. Lots to think about and look for
We really need more info on the type of paddling and waters you’re going to do, and you may not be able to get one kayak that suits everything you want to do. What is it you are hoping to “upgrade”? Fit, speed, maneuverability, storage space, seaworthiness, beer holders? On small rivers, I would certainly not want to use a 17-18 foot kayak. On larger lakes, I would not want to use a wide 12 footer.
@willowleaf said:
Some kayak metrics detail for the OP:
http://www.kayarchy.com/html/01equipment/004seakayakdesign.htm
Sorry to be disagreeable again, but there are too many simplistic half-truths and a serious amount of misinformation mixed in with some correct information on this page - many grains of salt are necessary for its consumption.