I have a one year old Explorer LV with the older skeg system and have developed a leak in the rear hatch. I traced it down to the
area where the skeg cable inside the plastic tubing goes into the skeg box. I’d like to ask a question before I start taking it apart:
How far should the plastic tube go down into the box? My guess is that it was pushed out by camping gear packed in carelessly, but the tube doesn’t seem to go in very far and I don’t want to force it. There are nuts and bolts at the insertion point and I wonder if they need to be loosened to get the plastic tube back into the right position. If so, should I glass the system in to keep it from dislodging again? I do alot of camping if this makes a difference. If not glass, then silicone to keep it from leaking once it’s in the right position?
Thanks for any advice but not if it’s NDK bashing.
Lyn
Skeg fittings, etc.
The threaded fittings should be bonded solidly to the skeg box. Epoxy is probably the best material for this, but a high strength sealant like 3M 5200 or perhaps Lexel will work. DO NOT USE SILICONE or anything containing silicone. It bonds weakly and it leaves a residue that prevents anything else from bonding to the surface.
The tubing at the threaded fitting and does not extend into the skeg box. Depending on the type of fitting, the tubing could either lock into place when you push it into the fitting (the most common type), or you may need to loosen a compression nut on the top of the fitting.
Looked at mine
Yeah, the plastic tubing does not extend into the skeg box. I’d have to get it onto the ground with a flashlight to confirm exactly how things are sealed down there, so can’t do that at the moment. But the skeg cable housing in my rope skegged LV matches the above description.
The latter
I found out on the NDK owners board that it’s the type that has a compression ring. I’ll use epoxy putty once I get it all back in line.
Thanks for your help,
Lyn