I’m getting some leakage in the rear compartment. I’m out for a few hours and get about a cup of water out of it when I’m done. I’ve heard of the Tempest’s having skeg issues in earlier models, but this is one of the new Chinese ones. I’ve tried filling the rear compartment with water to check to see where it comes out, but that came up with no results. I then flipped it over and filled the skeg box, still nothing leaking. I thought it could be condensation, but there is no water in either of the other hatches. My best guess is that the water is entering the slider next to the cockpit while I’m leaning a turn and it’s flowing down the tube and into the cargo area. Is that a reasonable possibility? Any thoughts on how to remedy the situation? Thanks!
I think you’ve located the leak
I had a small leak into the rear compartment and first tried a bit of sealant on the joint of the skeg tube and skeg box. The leak seemed to have stopped afterwards - you might try that first.
Any special technique or tools used in applying the sealant? It’s kind of a stretch to get a had back there. Also what kind of sealant did you use? Thanks
I have a
2010 Tempest 170 and have not had issues with water coming through the hatches. However, I’ve only had it out about six times and it most stayed dry. I’ll put it to the test today as our club is having the annual safety practice and I’ll have the chance to get it wet inside and out for five or six hours. Will report back if I have water issues.
By pressurizing that hatch you will find the leak quickly.
Get a hold of an inflatable boat pump or similar.
Remove one deck fitting.
Insert the pump with the appropriate adapter snugly into that hole.
Carefully pressurize the compartment. Don’t go crazy. You don’t need to blow it up like a balloon to be able to hear the air escaping.
You can get advice on how to seal the leak by contacting Steve Scheerer on the Tempest Owners Yahoo Group.
I own a 2008 (American) Tempest Pro and a 2010 China-made Zephyr Pro. The glasswork on the Z is about a million percent better than the T. Both are perfectly watertight but I had to “finish” the T to make it that way. The Z came that way right out of the bubblewrap. I doubt that it has to do with the hull. Probably fittings which are installed on this side of the pond.
I probably used silicone
as I usually have a tube around for automotive things. Downside to silicone is nothing else will ever stick there should you wish to try a different product. However, there’s nothing else in the vicinity to be contaminated by the silicone so I didn’t worry.
I’m sure I just spread a bit on there with my finger.
…for what it’s worth, Steve says:
Marine sealant – 3M 5200, Sika-Flex, Marine Goop - NO SILICONE- won’t stick/ last.
I have heard him preach against using any silicone sealer many times. Seems pretty important to him.
There is a PP file on the Tempest Owners Yahoogroup site that describes the leak resolution process. Another presentation on replacing a Tempest skeg cable. Definately worth a look. Lots of good information there for Tempest owners & operators.
I have a 2010 t and the construction is great. I have no leakage and its been submerged everyway it can be…im curious what you find
must’ve been made by a bunch of welshmen
Fill & Flip
Your leak might be at the or around the rear hatch. Put in half a compartment of water, seal it with the hatch and flip it on some saw horses to see if you get any leak out from around the hatch rim.
See you on the water,
The River Connection, Inc.
Hyde Park, NY
the Tempest owner group on yahoogroups.com has the file for figuring it all out as stated above. When you find something amiss let your dealer know and it should be covered by warranty.