I ended up picking up this canoe yesterday and think it is a Solo Tripper by Curtis Canoe.
http://www.hemlockcanoe.com/images/photo_album/curtis_canoe_catalog/solo_tripper_1983.jpg
It is too bad that the previous owner varnished the gunwales with them on the canoe and didn’t do a very good job on the under sides of them. The logo on the bow reads Canoe Specialist. This canoe is 15’ 7" long and 30" wide. Weighs in at roughly 44 pds and even with my recent neck surgery I am able to pick it up without any problems. It is a F/G layup. HIN is CPI0099OM83L. I know there is a site to find out what that means but I can’t recall what it is. Here’s links to pictures of it:
http://picasaweb.google.com/douglas.doremus/Curtis#
Can anyone provide anymore insight on the history of this canoe? I think I got a nice boat for a good price and it will fit the bill for me once I can get back on the water. Many thanks.
dougd
That’s the Site
Thanks DD, it’s the one I’ve used before. Bookmarked it now.
Nice Doug!
Congrats! How are we going to recognize you now if you show up with that boat?
Andy
Contact Dave Curtis
at www.hemlockcanoe.com He probably built it and can tell you exactly what it is...does sound like the Solo Tripper though.
Edit...nice piece of solo history..hold onto it.
Solo Tripper
CPI is Curtis, seems to be their 99th hull, probably overall, and was laminated in December, [L], of 1983. The solo tripper was replaced in the Curtis line with Nomad,a shouldered / tumblehomed hull in ~1989.
It is the First of several David Yost designed trippers, including, in near order, Sawyer Autum Mist & StarLite, Curtis Vagabond & Nomad, Loon works Mistral, Swift Heron & Loon, Bell Merlin II and Placid Boats RapidFire.
Of interest, Solo tripper was the only DY tripper to be flared. All the rest are tumblehomed to improve ergometrics and paddle physics.
That’s a nice looking boat, Doug.
Nice find. Not unlike my Indy in some ways. I hope you got it for a good price and I know you’ll enjoy it as much as I have my solo boat. I’m glad your neck is up to hoisting it. Now you’re gonna have to get a fancy bent-shaft to go with! Mud season’s coming!
Sweet!
Nice lookin’ canoe. Too bad the water’s solid now - you must be itchin’ to paddle her! I know I would be.
Congrats Doug!
Great looking boat.
But how are you going to hide her from the Hog Backed Saint, Number One-Fifty-Eight?
More Info or Suggestions, Placement?
Since this canoe is “older” I’m not sure if the placement of the seat and thwarts are correct from orignial. Hell, they could have been moved many times. It seems to me that the seat, from looking at the picture on the Curtis site, is now set to far back.
The current measurements are front thwart at about 68", the front of the seat is at 8’ and the rear thwart is at 116".
I am thinking that I would like to move the front thwart forward to give myself a little more room for, being bold here…poling, and the keep the rear thwart the same as it is. I am also thinking of adding carry handles just a few inches back of the decks as I don’t like picking up any canoe by the decks, even my hogged backed Disco.
Not owning a solo canoe before I am really wondering about seat placement. Should it be more centered or set back like it is? I’m used to my OT and Malecite which have the seats set way back as they are tandems but have moved the seat way forward for solo use on occasion.
I’d appreciate any thoughts on this. I’m like a little kid with a new toy that can’t use it! 
Of course I can’t take it out on ice but hell, maybe there will be a thaw!
Many thanks.
dougd
Well
It is normal for the seat to be placed back from center. How much depends on whether you’re a sitter or a kneeler and the design of the hull itself.
The drops that are in your boat right now are part of a two part system. Right now it is set up for sitting, the blocks are flat and the seat level. Also included originally would have been a pair of 15 degree? wedges that stack under the flat blocks to cant the seat for kneeling. If you want to cant your seat for kneeling you can contact Dave Curtis and he will have or make current style drops. The current Peregrine drops may fit.
citrus stripper
Btw, one of the citrus paint strippers should allow fairly easy removal of the runs down the inside of the boat without effecting the glass in any way. Much much easier than trying to sand or scrape them off. That boat is so pretty I’m assuming you’ll want to clean it up 
Bill H.
Seat placement and angle
The front machine screws that hold the seat in place should be ~6" aft of center. This places the seat edge ~ 4.5" aft of Center, which works for trim paddlers. Those with success lapping over the belt buckle might move the seat aft to compensate.
One can also acquire solo seat drops from Ed’s Canoe Parts. You’ll probably need longer machine screws which are available from McMaster Carr.
The old Curtis hulls used washers and split washers; I’d go ahead and pop $0.20 for lock nuts.