Newbie here first time buying a kayak. Looking at sit on top model on marketplace. Found a really good deal on one with 275 lb max weight and i am 215. I keep readying about the 70% rule. Will I be ok? Would adding plugs help?
1 Like
First, plugs would not help. Not even sure what you were planning to plug (presumably the scupper holes), but I know they won’t help.
Your weight could work, or maybe not. Depends on some other aspects such as your balance, body weigh distribution, and the like. For example, I am 220 and paddle a sea kayak with a stated capacity of 275. Paddled same boat even when I was over 230. But not everyone is the same - some at similar or lighter) weight to me didn’t fit it…
Test paddle is best. If that isn’t possible, I’d just go for a boat with a higher capacity.
4 Likes
If you don’t have your mind made up already it may be best to ask about the “Mission Statement” of your kayaking plans. What are the plans now, and what are the potentials for activities later.
There is a saying that is based in fact but hard to embrace that days 'Buy your last kayak first"
The problem with that saying is that few people have an ability to foresee the future and understand what they will do as skills improve. But the foundation for the thought is to get a kayak that is capable of doing things beyond your initial expectation for it’s use.
1 Like
What is the boat?
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/lifetime-spitfire-10-91172-1752590
I found it on the FB marketplace. It has only been used three times and costs 150. It comes with a life jacket and paddle. I am not looking to go long distance with it just put it in lakes I am camping on to go get better photos (im a photographer). Be about 225-230 with myself and camera gear.
Lifetime (mostly a maker of patio furniture and kiddie pools) is not a great manufacturer. Forget about warranty issues like seat connections or hull seams blowing out, and they are not known for performance including stability and tracking. If you just want a platform for sitting near shore for nature photography and don’t plan to paddle any distance it might suffice. But used boats of somewhat higher quality are usually available on FB marketplace or Craigslist for $200 to $300 at least in my area, if you want something more versatile and reliable. Kayaks from big box hardware stores are not generally a wise buy. We are almost to the end of season when better vendors put their stock on sale and even when rental outfitters sell off their used fleet if cost is a primary concern.
Another advantage of starting with a better brand name boat, even used, is it will have a better resale value if you decide after using it that it doesn’t suit your purposes. If you can be patient and keep searching the used market, there are deals to be have. I have bought half a dozen kayaks and canoes over the years that were worth $1000 to $3000 new but cost me between $100 and $300 – most came with a decent paddle as well as a PFD.
2 Likes
Given you want to do photography, and cameras don’t like water, I would lean toward a kayak that has a higher capacity so less chance of dunking your gear.
Many photographers find a kayak that has a rudder useful, as you can better maintain your direction without your hands. Using pedal drive kayak also has benefits, as you can propel the kayak hands free. Either of these require much more costly kayaks than the Lifetime.
5 Likes
The maximum load capacity is the weight a boat can displace before it sinks. Safe capacity varies with the design, intended use, and the conditions where the boat will be used.
I calculate “practical” safe capacity using 60 - 66% of maximum capacity, in this case 275 lbs (safe cap: 165 -181.5 lbs) vs. 70% (safe cap: 192.5 lbs), because it more closely represents the ideal paddler weight with up to 10 lbs of cargo making the total weight 192.5 lbs for that boat (clothes, shoes, paddle, PFD, fishing gear, each 1/2 gallon of water is 4.15 lbs, etc.). Note that there is no room for much else. At 215 lbs, you overload the boat using the 70% factor by 22.5 lbs, or by 8.1%
Using the cross section of the referenced kayak, you can view the waterline in the above picture as the ideal load water line. The red bracket lines shows the max capacity. The green line shows the distance from the waterline and where the flare of the hull reverses to turn inward, called tumblehome. Once water reaches that point, buoyancy diminished sharply, and balance becomes harder to maintain, especially if you encounter choppy conditions. With a max load capacity of only 275 lbs, there isn’t much fudge factor, so the safe range is extremely narrow.
In the picture below, the adult paddling partner using the same model kayak had already swamped and was being assisted. The adolescent paddler in this boat easily weighs half the weight of the paddler in the swamped boat. That load water line is unsafe.
Buoyancy is gained by reducing the weight of the boat or load, and by increasing draft, width or length to achieve acceptable performance. The deeper a boat sinks, the more “piggish” the handling, but both “underloading” and “overloading” a boat has negative impact on performance by forcing a load water line outside of the design parameters. Consequently, the boat rides high in the water so it catches wind, or it will ride low , which hampers edging and increases the chance of being swamped by waves or becoming overly tippy when leaned. Using an ill fitted or uncomfortable boat is a shortcut to giving up paddling.
3 Likes
70% rule??
That is is best to no load a boat up to 70% of the manufacturer’s stated weight capacity. As a boat gets closer to its stated capacity, it becomes less and less stable. 70% if capacity is a guideline that many use here for max the amount you should load a boat.
1 Like
Man I need to go on a diet….
Well, I’m sitting at about 75% capacity so I guess it could be worse.
I predict this boat won’t be satisfactory. Don’t let the price be the deciding factor here. Keep looking for something a bit longer and it’s really easier to paddle if you don’t excide 50% of the weight rating as this reduces the wetted surface that causes drag. You are free to make your own choices, but this is my thoughts on the subject.
Something like these would be a better choice if you need a sit-on-top.
https://oldtownwatercraft.johnsonoutdoors.com/us/shop/kayaks/recreation/ocean-kayak-malibu-115
or this;
or this;
or this;
Correct. It depends on the degree of performance and level of safety you desire. It ain’t over until you sink, but that depends on where you are when you manage to sink.
I owned a Caribbean and a Skimmer. I weigh 230 and didn’t like the way either handled. I have a high COG and found both slow and squirrely.
1 Like
I’ve never thought much about kayak weight capacity but my husband is a big guy so I looked up the specs of his boat (Old Town Cayuga 130) and he actually exceeds the weight capacity listed (239 lbs). Factor in an extra 5-10 lbs for clothes and essentials (PFD, water, paddle) and he’s well over.
He’s not a water sports guy at all and manages fine, but we only paddle flat water and that’s a sit inside kayak from a reputable manufacturer. Cheaper brands just don’t design boats as well, and I wouldn’t trust that they would handle as well when near/at capacity either. Hubby’s biggest challenge with that boat is getting in and out, as the cockpit doesn’t give him a lot of wiggle room at his size.
IMO when it comes to canoes and kayaks a reliable name brand manufacturer is always worth it. If you scour FB Marketplace and Craigslist long enough you can typically find a good deal on a good used boat. I’m also a photographer and routinely use $10k+ worth of gear from my kayak (Wilderness Systems Pamlico 120) or sometimes my husband’s yak. I would strongly recommend a stable, sit inside kayak with a large cockpit if photography is the goal. Your gear is much more protected but still readily accessible that way. I know people who shoot from SOT kayaks and SUPs but have been grateful for having my gear a bit more sheltered many times. For exploring lakes and ponds I like a 12-14 foot boat as they are small enough to navigate narrow channels but big enough to not track terribly on open water.
If you can find a used Wilderness Systems Pamlico 120 that might be perfect. The weight limit is 350 lbs, which is plenty of buffer for you, and it is incredibly stable, albeit not the fastest boat out there. The cockpit is huge (both wide and very open) - I’ve used it with my 65 lb dog, our 3 yo child, or a couple drybags full of camera gear, and my husband finds it much easier to get in and out of. WS doesn’t make the Pamlico anymore (the Pungo is most similar but a little more nimble and less stable) but I’ve seen used ones out there from time to time. It is a fantastic boat for photography and nervous beginner paddlers or anywhere primary stability is key.
2 Likes
The lifetime boat you want to buy might work if you are more of a floater than a paddler. I’m very much a try it and see if it works kind of person. In fact, four months ago, I tried a short rental lifetime sit on top in mexico. Unfortunately, I was just too heavy for it. I was swamping out in small waves and immediately returned to shore. If your goal is to try getting out into nature and you want to do it on the cheap then by all means buy it. I think you’ll float ok. Although, I do think bigger would be more than ok. The boat I tried was clearly too small but I was probably well over its weight range. Think about how you are going to haul it around and store it.
Most of the people on this message board are looking to do more than “floating”. Some cover distance, some go fast, some like fishing, the wilderness or open water or whitewater, or surfing. For many of us it is a combination of these things. The lifetime is not the boat for that. Thus you are going to get a lot of other suggestions.
I like that the lifetime spitfire is a sit on top. If it were me, I would buy it. I would practice climbing -onto the boat from the water just so I knew my self rescue ability. Because it is a sit-on- top, you won’t have to worry about the boat sinking! Stay close to shore and start in the shallows when you do start paddling around. You have 100% my permission to go have some fun. Wear a pfd, aka personal flotation device, aka lifejacket, like the most experienced on here do.
It is ok to be a floater. Very chill and enjoy your new boat. We may never hear from you again or perhaps after a time you’ll be back on here wanting an upgrade. Welcome to the world of paddling and floating. Warning! It can be addictive! Go out and enjoy the water. We’ll be here when you are ready for more. Even more important than the boat size, is the pfd size. What comes with the boat may or may not fit you. It’s important to wear it properly. If it is not comfortable or doesn’t fit then you will need to buy a new one. Be sure to share how it goes. We like giving advice and enabling the fun.
The Cayuga is a good example for comparison to other kayaks in the same class, for example the 125 Tsunami. Agree that a reputable manufacturer is a better option than a fly by night boat from a big bix store, but its important for a new buyer to be aware that proper selection is more than length and width.
Marketing strategies differ with each manufacturer. Testing and furnished stats depend on targeting a market, concerns about liability, and how exactly to calculate a maximum load. It’s probably practical to proceed with selection based on the standard that the manufacturer accepts the liability of rating a product.
Superficially, it would appear both the Cayuga 130 and 125 Tsunami would have the same capacity (13’1" x 25" x 13" deck, vs. 12’9" x 26" x 15" deck).
So how can there be a 64 lb range between both kayaks. The first difference is the flare, with the Cayuga being more streamlined, and the Tsunami being an inch wider and more full overall. The second and probably the most significant difference is in the deck height of 13" vs. 15". A higher front deck deflects waves better as the bow rises then plunges on the wave peaks.
My first sea kayak was the 125 Tsunami at a time when I weighed 255 lbs. The boat fit comfortably, was exceptionally stable, easy to handle even in rough conditions, but tended to be wet as the conditions of wind and waves increased. Upgrading to the 145 model Tsunami added an extra 21" overall and 1" in deck height, as well as 50 lbs in capacity. Since dropping 30 lbs in body weight, the 145 handles much better. I’m sure the 125 performance would improve as well, but rather than going back, I upgraded again to a 175 which is 18" longer and 400 lbs max capacity, which is the best weight class for my current 230 lbs weight.
You can exceed the safe limit, but then you compromise seaworthiness, handling, performance, and safety. Before buying a boat, test it or at least do a side by side comparison. Little differences can mean a lot for comfort, tracking, speed, how dry the boat will be under the same conditions. A longer hull with a higher deck might handle waves better and be able to keep up to speed, compared to the other boat. A higher max capacity might be more seaworthy, but it also might expose more upper surface to winds that push the boat around.
Bottom line is that one boat could more safely accommodate a 163 lb paddler while the other can take up to 210 lbs (or a 163 lb paddler with 47 lbs of gear), and perform within the design.
1 Like
Excellent response and insight.
Like many things, skill of user and conditions of use are huge factors. With horseback riding, many stables have weight limits for rental/trail horses that is often around 200 lbs, yet a very skilled 220 lb rider with excellent balance may ride “light” and feel far more comfortable for a horse to carry than a 150 lb inexperienced rider who rides “heavy.” Similarly, that 220 lbs might be fine for short rides in a riding arena but would be uncomfortable over fences or for extended rides on rough terrain.
My husband is far from skilled, but we primarily paddle on calm ponds and small lakes in ideal conditions, moving at slow speed, and not in very remote areas. All those things reduce risk. We’d probably switch boats more often if not for the fact that I’m a far better swimmer, more experienced paddler, and safety training that my husband doesn’t, so I always carry the “high value” cargo (our kid, our late dog).
We recently got a canoe with 1100 lb 6" freeboard capacity. My husband actually seems excited about it and has confessed he doesn’t really enjoy kayaking all that much. Canoeing and kayaking offer different experiences, but I’m also sure his kayak doesn’t handle nearly as well for him as it does for me, who is about 100 lbs lighter.
Paddling is supposed to be fun. Its well worth spending a little extra $$ on a good boat that fits the user and intended use, as it makes the experience that much more enjoyable.
2 Likes