The no-name storm that battered and flooded NYC and southern New England is winding down. After a late brunch at the Stars Restaurant at Hingham Harbor (great post-paddle pigout joint), figure I go and check out the wave action at the south shore break.
The short period 3-4’ waves were coming in with astronomical high tide and lapping at the sea wall.
North diagonal wind is down to just over knots but the 4’ plus waves are still looking messy and disorganized. Cool and foggy out there. Feeling no impetus to rush out there!
What am I saying. Every day is coffee day. The only thing I enjoyed about the Army is I that I liked the coffee. I dislike decaf and would rather drink tea. My daughter cant drink caffeine - it makes her nervous when she drinks it. So she drinks this Brand in decaf version. I actually liked it and asked what it was. I felt nervous when she told me it was decaf.
Yup. Medium roast for me. No sugar, no cream, please, to dilute my coffee.
Now, that summer is over, I can reflect this has been most “wavey” summer in my short and medium term memory. Felt like I had some surf riding every week! Enough coffee, off to surf some waves!!!
The waves were still rolling in. According to Boston Buoy, 4’ plus with a combination of 10 second swells mixed in with steep wind waves of about 4 seconds.
The rides were ok. I would drop down a steep face and shoot off for bit, only to run into a smaller wave in front and have everything mushed out. I did manage to link a couple of good sections into a longer run to the shore.
So, it’s a wrap for me with the ReVision. I rode it all summer to get a handle on how it surfs. The most recent lesson is to edge quickly if i have a late drop on a steep face. Without the highly upturned nose, like my waveskis, the ReVision’s bow acts like a shovel by digging in deep into the trough and stopping, leading to inadvertant endos and capsizes. When edged aggressively, the bow slices into the trough but then slices back out as the air volume pushes it back out from submersion. No endos today.
While there is always more to learn, fall is here and winter following quickly behind. I am going to switch back over to the Stratos and the Progression for longboat surfing.
Leaning into the sense/concept of “mahalo”, I am grateful and appreciative of the gift of nature in the form of ocean waves, of the opportunities to feel and blend with that energy, for the leisure to paddle and play, and to make it through the summer waves to land safely back on shore…
Still getting leftover waves from that no-name storm. We have very clean 2.5-3’ waves with 10-11 second intervals. These are being cleaned up by a slight offshore breeze.
I need to head out later and get some seat time and reaquaintance with my waveski (before the bigger Phillippe waves this weekend). Practice, practice, practice…
Glad that I went with the waveski for this sesson. I REALLY needed the seat time. After a summer of just surfing the longer ReVision, I have a skewered sense of the take-off zone. The ReVision is able to pick up waves sooner - before a waveface has gotten steep and critical. Had a lot of futile sprinting today with the waveski and not get the reward of dropping down a waveface. First, I thought I was in rip current. But the same futile sprinting happened when I moved 50 yards over. Dawned on me that I was too far out. I needed to be closer in where the waves were much more pitched but not yet breaking. The rides started happening after that.
I admit to loving this spurt of warm weather, although it is supposed to rain this weekend and we then go into our normal fall temps.
What I don’t love is that the sun doesnt’ rise until after 6:30 AM and then sets before 7 PM. The coming seasonal nadir is dreadful. I hope we get to February quick, when the days are noticeably longer again.
