Opinions on a kayak, please?

I have the oppertunity to buy a Perception Carolina 13.5 at a very good price. I have been told it is in very good condition with one exception. It apparently fell off a truck and appears to have a decent scrape on the stern.


What say you?

That’s not a scrape. That’s a hole. :slight_smile:

If they want it gone for FREE you could try a repair. Otherwise run. Without a doubt. Even if you fixed it, resale would be nill, IMO.

Can’t tell if it’s all the way
through or not from the picture, but it is a significant ding that affects the value of the boat. If it doesn’t leak, it might be worth $200. Most mfg’s put a lot of plastic here and at the front, so it might be fine. I doubt it would affect the performance drastically, but at some point you might want to try to make this area a little more symmetrical to be sure.

I’d take a long look at it before I parted with my money.


a hole by any other name
is a hole. I don’t think I’d take it if they gave it to me.

Might be able to close the apparent
hole with a variety of goopy adhesives, but I agree with Eric that this is a plastic welding job. A welder might build up plastic and shape it so it could be brought back close to the original contour.

Thanks for all the replies. I really appreciate the different views on this.

I’m waiting until my local shop opens this morning so I can get info from them. As for plastic welding, is it something that I would ever have to be concerned about failure at the weld site? Is there anything in particular I should ask the shop before I agree to anything?

Because of the location
a decent repair should last a long time. Unless you paddle backwards most of the time, this area just doesn’t get a lot of abuse.


what about loading?
I’d say this is the single most wear-prone area of any plastic kayak. I’ve seen a few kayaks with holes in that area, just as a result of years of use (or misuse).

As for reliability of the repair, I’d ask the welder. My understanding is that the potential for crosslinking, that is creating a chemical bond, between new material and the existing material is only moderate. You can’t make a plastic repair that’s as strong as the original, unlike a composite repair, which is fairly easy to bring back to original or better strength.

pass !
i’d pass up on it unless your really good @ plastic welding !!!

I am surprised at the unanimous response
from the forum when you guys say that the kayak is toast.

Gee, I really thought that plastic, in the hands of an expert, could be fixed.

Something like this would be a piece of cake to fix in a composite boat.

Hmmm, makes me rethink about the “bombproofness” of a plastic kayak.

I was considering adding one to my composite fleet (currently 5) for really gnarly trashing sessions.

Looks more like it was dragged
Plastic welding doable or not, something about which I have no idea, are you sure that you are getting the full scoop on this boat from those selling it? That damage looks a lot more like being dragged than dropped to me.

It obviously fell off the truck
at speed to lose that much plastic and to make those kind of striations.

And there are a few of us who think a repair is possible, but probably best left to someone who knows what they are doing. Not exactly unanimous.

And I don’t think any kayak is bombproof at 50+ MPH out on the highway.


not bomb proof
but repairable, composits (fiberglass) SOF’s, wooden.

Plastics are tough but when holed, that’s another matter.

Ah dunno about that

– Last Updated: Mar-13-09 12:04 AM EST –

The last time I dropped a plastic boat (my own) it immediately compressed and bounced up. It showed no inclination to stay in one position long enough to create those kind of striations. Granted it was from a still car, but...

Not important though - a hole is a hole. BTW, is anyone else seeing a dark line to the right of the hole, up along the side of the boat, that looks like it could be a crack?

How much does the OPer know about the sellers?

Probably just one end fell off

– Last Updated: Mar-13-09 12:27 AM EST –

I agree that the striations are very consistent, indicating pretty constant contact across the entire scratched area at the time the final marks were made. I would guess that one end fell off the truck while going down the highway, and in the 300 feet or so it took them to stop, the highway rubbed off a good inch of material at what had been the highest point of contact, and less near one end of the damaged area. The damaged spot is also a very sturdy location on the boat. If the boat is cheap enough, almost anything is worth a try. I'd be surprised if a brass or aluminum patch attached with screws didn't end up lasting for the life of the boat. An alternative would be to shape a piece of brass or aluminum to snugly fit within wedge-shaped area on the inside of the hull, and put a two bolts right through the patch and that shaped piece and crank it down tight (using gasket cement, of course). Plastic welding sounds like a nicer way to fix it, but I'd put a sizable wager on being able to make a permenant repair using a little "hardware". People have told me before that such a repair would be "too heavy" but in this case it would only be about 50 to 80 grams.

Find a shop with a drader gun
and it’s totally and securely repairable. No big deal with the right tool and operator.

I passed on it
It turned out to be more work that it was worth for me to have this particular boat repaired. All the replies to the OP are truly appreciated though.

The search for a new-to-me boat continues…