I’m only an “expert” in sizing my own paddles – can’t really assess what would work for you. But there are several makers that post suggestions based on basic body metrics. I lucked out in having a custom paddle builder advise me based on measurements I provided at his request. My kayaks run 21 to 23 inches wide, all fairly low decked, I’m 5’ 5" but more like 5’ 3" in upper body (long legs) and have shortish arms. My unshouldered 84" GP (213 cm) with 19" loom works perfectly for me – maker also made the oval loom a little smaller in cross section for my hands which are small palms with long fingers.
You can always shorten a wooden paddle by shaving down the ends and lengthen the loom by carving a bit. So if you are uncertain, I’d go for a shorter loom and a longer paddle. If you use a 210 for your Euro’s you may find you want shorter for the GP but maybe not. Since the Etsy one is unshouldered, the loom width is not as critical as if it had a sharp shoulder anyway. I don’t find that a few cm makes much of a difference. My two piece Gearlab GP is a 220, a couple of inches longer than my venerable cedar, and the loom is 20". Don’t notice a difference in use.
I know guys who have made themselves a dozen or more iterations of GP’s for personal use, all of varying sizes and dimensions that they prefer for different boats and conditions. I’m not that particular.
I’ve never used a drawknife for paddles, mostly because I’m too impatient to learn how to use one. A bandsaw is nice, but not required. I’ve made paddles with only hand saws, a plane and sandpaper and maybe a rasp.
@willowleaf said:
By the time you bought the necessary tools (drawknife, bandsaw, plane) and materials (clear-grained cedar or fir, tung or linseed oil, varnish) and possibly had to start over with a second piece of wood, not to mention the time involved, you might as well pay the $130.
I beg to differ. The difference is that if you buy the tools, you can make as many paddles as you want for a nominal cost each and you own tools that can be used for other purposes. You’ll also gain useful skills during the paddle making process, which can be applied to other projects.
If you buy the paddle, you get just a paddle.
Considering how skilled you apparently are, I’m really surprised that you wouldn’t encourage a DIY approach.
But the OP has never even used a GP. I agree that the DIY approach would be fine for some people, but as a neophyte user I think the OP would be best served by buying the reasonably priced ready-made one.
I see it both ways. I’ve built 10 and improved every time. Now I build with the user’s input.
I semi finish them, the user paddles and tells me where adjustments are needed. I guess you can call it tuning.
One day I may even charge for one.
It would be bad if it was true, but I don’t get that impression based on the description. The outline looks similar, but the loom is shorter and the description sounds like a pretty traditional design.
The BB paddle had a long loom and flat blades. It was designed for the silly “scraping the deck” stroke that Doug Van Doren promoted (and perhaps still does). According to actual Greenlanders, only children who are just learning to paddle use that type of stroke.
Short answer, nothing. I know several level three coaches the use a Betsie Bay as their primary paddle.
Longer answer, The Alan’s paddle design differs is several important ways for what we now consider a traditional West Greenland paddle. The loom is too long and the blade is pretty flat and will interact with the water differently. I have both a Betsie Bay and a stick that I carved under the direction of Don Beale. These days, I much prefer that one to the BB although I do carry the BB as a back up and for a change on a long paddle. Here is a picture of the two showing where the loom meets the blade.
Thanks.
But, to prove my newbie-ness I don’t get why you can’t just hold your hands wherever you want on the loom, and why its length has to be just right for your shoulders or kayak width.
In my case I find that it has several advantages: It indexes the paddle naturally for a angles/canted blade entry. It also keeps me on center unless I want to shift the blade to one side. It helps keep my arms at distance apart for reasonably good mechanics.
The Greenland qajaqs and paddles were designed around the body measurements of the paddler and the qajaqs were designed as low volume hunting craft. If you dig around you will find discussion as to whether paddle dimensions might be modified to suit wider & deeper kayaks. Me, I don’t really know enough to have a firm opinion. When it comes down to it, loom length is a personal thing. You can read this http://www.qajaqusa.org/QK/makegreen2.pdf for some history as well as carving instructions.
