Paddle grip glue

I am shortening a few Carlisle paddles for rafting (kid size). I purchased new grips, and have cut the shaft to the proper length. Does anyone have first hand experience with gluing the plastic grip to the aluminum shaft? Whatever Carlisle uses, it is tough stuff, as I cannot drive the old grip out. Any thoughts on the proper glue to use? (I have e-mailed Carlisle, but no response yet).

Go for epoxy. Any of the Hardware store or Home Depot brands in the double-barrrel syringes (Loctite, Duro, Devcon) will be fine for this.

No first hand experience with a paddle, but I used a Duro epoxy to glue a plastic snow shovel blade to its aluminum shaft about 9 years ago.

The blade is worn down to about 75% of its original size, but the joint remains rock solid.

Yup, epoxy.
I shortened some similar paddles (but went through the trouble of cutting/chiselling out the old grips. I put them back in with 3M epoxy. I use the paddles for whitewater and I’m sure the grips will never budge.

I took a long screw and swirled it around the inside of the tubing to roughen the surface. Both surfaces should be scratched up & clean for the epoxy.


removing old grips
If they used epoxy, you might be able to use a heat gun to heat the area until the epoxy softens, at which point you can twist the grip out. I’ve done it with carbon fiber canoe paddles (per Zaveral’s recommendation), and can’t think of any reason it wouldn’t work on other paddles that are epoxied together.

Epoxy may not hold to aluminum
unless the aluminum is etched properly. Oh, you’ll probably get away with it, but frankly, I would use a urethane, even Liquid Nails. I have used a lot of West epoxy, and the one situation where it is least likely to work is when gluing two smooth, impermeable surfaces, like aluminum against plastic.

I used to have Norse paddles, and occasionally the tapered grip would come loose and turn in the aluminum-fiberglass shaft. This was very unnerving when trying to roll a c-1. Later, what I did was to drill through the top of the shaft tube and through the plastic handle, and put in a single long pop rivet. This served to keep the handle from turning or from coming out.

After roughing up both surfaces, I slapped a coat of epoxy on both parts and allowed them to dry overnight. This morning, I have pulled, twisted, etc., and can’t get them to budge. Only time will tell now.

Further investigation of the manufacturers method indicates that they “dimple” the aluminum inward to force it into the plastic in 4-6 locations. I have pounded the living snot out of their attachment method and can’t get it to budge.

Thanks for all of the input!

Carlisle got back to me…
… I wanted to shorten a set of Carlisle “RS Magic” paddles, and they told me they used hot melt glue to hold the plastic blades onto the fiberglass shaft. Also they use a Pop Rivet. I drilled out the rivet, and used a high temp heat gun to heat the paddles and shaft. The hot melt glue finally softened enough to pull them off. I used a “Monocote” heat gun for shrinking the covering used on Radio Controlled Model Airplanes. Your local Hobby Shop would sell them if you were interested.

… I didn’t have hot melt glue to put it back on with, so I used GE Silicone Sealant & a pop rivet. I roughened the surfaces, and put this inside the paddle and on the shaft. This stuff glues just about anything, and stays flexble. They have stayed on OK so far.

… Good luck, & Happy paddling!

I think the 3M epoxy I use is a urethane epoxy. I guess I didn’t know there were other types. Either way, scarring the surfaces is important.


With true epoxy, the surface should be
etched with acid. As for 3M, they make two part structural adhesive, which is urethane, not epoxy.

What’s the dif between an “epoxy” and a “urethane adhesive”? I’ve been using the terms interchangeably. P.