Yup. The “T-types” need a bit of self awareness, reflection and hopefully the exercise of due caution (before something bad happens).
At my homebreak, at high tide, the waves would roll right up to and do a dumping break right onto the cobblestone shore. Have to admit early on, in getting my cred as a paddle surfer with “local boardies”, I played the unofficial “game of chicken” which is to ride head high plus waves right up to point of the shore dump and to peel back over the wave crest before getting slammed into the stones. Fortunately, I never got caught in the game of chicken, although I have had plenty of dings and slams into the rock jetty in the normal course of surfing the homebreak.
I earned my acceptance by (and treated as) the locals because they know I can control my waveski as well as most of them. I surf that break right through the winter when the “visitors” and the fair weather surfers have given up by Thanksgiving.
Is it worth it? Well, again, we are social animals and the fact is there is unofficial hierachy at play, whether we recognize it not when folks are thrown together in defined space (as the local break is). Having earned my cred, i can do my own thing. None of the locals hassle me. I have had a few incidents but with visitors, but they backed off when they sense the vibe that I am part of the “tribe”, despite that fact that I am on waveski rather than on a surf board.
In paddling groups, there too exist social dynamics, no matter how subtle, even if the newer folks aren’t fully cued into it.
Surfing/paddling alone gives a (needed) break from the social dynamics.
A game I call ‘Chicken of the Sea’ is to paddle parallel to shore, tying to judge where the wave will break, and being just on top of it when it does.
+1 pt if I am right on top of the wave (just before it breaks), -1 pt if it breaks on me, -5 if I get trashed (flipped).
I would say not so much “coincidence”, as it is the fact that “T-types” exist everywhere and hence the shared games of bravo (or stupidity) that get played.
Strictly speaking as a T-type myself (with borderline stupidity disorder).
There is a certain sense of freedom being out on big water. There is this same sense of freedom when paddling solo.
Some of us crave the senses coming alive and focused in the moment.
Being on the water always carries risk. The level of risk varies of course, and we as individuals may tolerate different levels of risk. Regardless of all this becoming skilled and knowledgeable helps reduce the risk. Wisdom however does not necessarily follow skills and knowledge. That often requires experience.
I often think back to the story that 3meterswell posted about the guy who paddled solo offshore to photograph sea birds, and did much of the paddling at night. It wasn’t perhaps an advisable or wise thing to do. He had local experience, and I suspect he knew the risks, but he went anyway. At what point does the difference fall between foolish and epic. I suspect he went because for him the risk was an acceptable price of admission to the epic. However, that epic ended in a capsize with a fishing boat and the USCG becoming involved in the rescue.
I don’t know about him, but I would be proud of the accomplishment. I would be mortified about the outcome. I do know I would not have made the same decision to do what he did. As an individual he thought he was capable. Perhaps if the timing of the return had been better it would have ended more successfully. I would think lessons were learned from the experience, which should improve his decision making in the future. A bit of knowledge gained. Perhaps a bit wiser too. He probably knows he could have died.
I sort of like the sound of “Chicken of the Sea”. Maybe the next time I am playing in the surf, but I don’t claim to be wise.
Your enthusiasm is fantastic and you’re obviously smart because you worried.
Here is what I would do;
Learn how to navigate without digital tech. I am not saying don’t take tech, I am saying be able to function with out it. Orienteering is a lot fun and will add greatly to all outdoor experiences.
Get with a group who does these types of trips going alone into remote areas regardless of your exp level is Suicide by nature. Eventually anyone will and can disappear.
Have you ever been seasick? It makes me wish for a quick death. The way to avoid it is to snack on ginger (I use ginger candy) the day before and the day of big water. It works. They tested it on “Myth Busters” and it works.
Lesson learned. Should have gone with Chick-fil-A or Popeyes.