Paint for S and G canoe.

I want a white paint to put over the epoxy.I have already checked the archives. I have read a very convincing article extolling the virtues of latex exterior house paint.I was thinking of using refrigerator enamel, but don’t know if it is UV resistant.Then there is auto paint.

Comments please.

System 3 makes a product called WR-LPU. It is a two part water based Linear polyurathane that has UV protection. It comes in a variety of colours, including clear (which I have used on two of my boats).

It can be a bit of a challenge to apply but it offers excellent resistance against scratching and UV damage.

More info can be found on their website:


Marine topside paint?
CLC recommends Interlux Brightside polyurethane. Pygmy recommends System Three WR-LPU polyurethane.

The big downside is the expense – the stuff starts at around $25 per quart.

is good stuff, I don’t know if it can be brushed but I spray all my boats with awlgrip

Interlux Brightside and Pettit Easypoxy are both pretty good single part urethane paints. Both go on very easy and have excellent coverage. A primer is recommended for brightside but realistically it isn’t nessesary. I used both on my S&G kayak, Easypoxy(what a misleading name, there’s nothing epoxy about it) for most of it and Brightside for trim. I think Brightside dries a bit faster, looks a bit glossier and self-levels even better than easypoxy. Durability, honestly either is scratched off pretty easy if you run it up on shore or plow into a log or whatever. both take a pretty long time to dry completely, dry to touch in a day but i wouldn’t really use the boat for at least a week or two even.

Honestly, I think the generic General Paint brand marine enamel is more durable/harder ,but it’s also a lot less glossy.


– Last Updated: Jan-08-07 1:41 AM EST –

You can add powders to the epoxy to color it. I thought I read somewhere that there is a white one.

I'm using powdered silica (for hardness) plus graphite (for UV protection and slickness) on the bottom two panels of my S&G kayak. Have two coats on and am about to put on the 3rd coat. It's black, though, not white.

If you haven't already done so, post the question at's Building section.

When I had to repair my QCC using
epoxy, I called Phil who is the chief cook and bottle washer there, and he said use the cans of spray paint that you get at a auto store. I had good luck with it, but if it is in a place on the bottom of the hull that will get scraped while coming up on a sandy beach you might have to touch it up every so often.

Mine is right on the base of the bow, and I was surprised at how many beach landings it took before I had to spray it again . (two years ago, and one touch up).

That is for touch up- it would cost a bunch to do a whole boat.

Kind of like when we were kids and got our first 20 year old car and were going to paint the whole thing. Then gave up after the first fender, since the paint was costing more than the car.



Gloss or satin, high or low finish?
It depends on the finish you desire, also how much money you want to spend. For a high gloss, mirror finish you’ll need sandable high build primer and a polyurethane finish. You could also spray on a mirror coat as in automobile painting.

My S&G decked sailing canoe didn’t need a high finish. I used “Rustolastic” from MAB Paints. It is a high build alkyd based semi gloss enamel and has held up very well the past two years.

Though I MIGHT use an acrylic paint on a bigger boat that is dry sailed, I wouldn’t think of it on a smaller canoe or kayak. Not enough abrasion resistance.

LPU gets my vote as well. But the stuff ain’t cheap.

White pigment goes Bone color :^)
I have three white pigmented resin boats. They turn Bone color with exposure to the sun. I like the color. Reduces that white glare and looks much more natural.



Plain Old…
…anti-rust paint (TremClad)works fine for me - lasted five years on my first S&G kayak before I had to repaint. Easy to find, easy to work with, easy to match - and cheap too.

LPU is best sprayed
All I read on LPU said it cannot be brushed and rolled but must be sprayed, and with an HPLV system. Mot something everyone has in their garage.

I’ve rolled it with a foam roller with no troubles. You have to watch for air bubbles that form and pop them by gently dragging a brush across them.

But that’s all the trouble I had.

pigment and lpu
Pigment doesn’t give epoxy any real LPU protection,thats why the color changes. still have to varnish or LPU over it.

LPU has been done by brush/roller. aparently extremely durable finish.

if you want to go the 2-part route there’s a bunch of paints out there.

Additional info

Check here for additional info. I have that link saved as a favorite because that’s the paint I will use in my Mohawk later this year. Check there and maybe you can find something to fit yours.

epoxy shield
Get some of that garage or basement floor paint. I’m pretty sure its called or made by epoxy shield.

Did that to a small s&g canoe I built for my daughter on the cheap - luan, resin (bondo resin bought at lowes for $10/quart), bondo cloth (also from lowes), and a piece of cedar decking for the thrawts and guns. I just taped the seams inside and out and then applied the epoxy paint inside and out. Holding up just fine after a couple years and all for about $75 to $100 - for that price one season would have made me happy.

they used to have one
for outdoors with UV protection. I used that one a cheapy canoe and it’s held up well.

I’ve used Brightsides Toplac on kayaks($35/quart) and it gives a hard finish and does work well. Having said that, we have recently used spray cans of Krylon Fusion for plastic (off white/satin) and found it to go on really well. Dries fast, no brush marks, $4.00 a can. I don’t know how it will hold up, but it is easy to spray on another coat.

Interlux Brightsides - roll and tip…
… gives good results as the stuff levels nicely.

Pigment questions is another place to ask.

I wanted to go with graphite on the keel area of the tern but the time frame (dead of winter)dictated otherwise so when warmer weather came I went with a thin copper sheet covering the fore and aft sections of the keel with an epxoy cover.