perimeter deck lines, re-entries

Anybody here ever add perimeter deck lines to a poly Looksha Sport 14? Did you use existing deck fittings or add additional ones? If someone could share a photo of their perimeter deck line layout it would help me determine mine.

Also, I want to practice paddle float assisted re-entries. Would you use shock cord and/or the perimeter deck lines to secure the paddle to the hull?


On a Looksha IV
I added deck line to the front, running it through all the fittings for the bow toggle, hatch straps, and the deck bungies.

I personally prefer to hold the paddle against the cockpit rim to do a paddle float rescue. Then the skill is transferable to any craft I happen to be in. I know a few folks who have rear deck bungies or straps that they use to secure their paddle - they always struggle releasing the paddle after the rescue - putting them selves at risk for another capsize. Just something to consider.

I was taught the heel hook self-rescue
by a local instructor. We lashed our paddles to our our deck rigging for that technique. I’ve seen videos of other paddle float assisted self-rescues but the paddle secured heel-hook rescue is the only one I’ve done so far (the easiest I’m told).

I’m only a few months into kayak paddling and I just got a dry suit and paddled in the ocean for the first time. I plan to learn to roll.

Must-have for heel-hook
Good point on the heel-hook re-entry with paddle float. That style requires the paddle blade be firmly held to the deck on both sides.

If the existing behind-the-cockpit bungies don’t lend themselves to holding the paddle, then you are probably going to need to either add bungy or ‘rescue straps’ held properly by footmans loops. I’ve seen those with a quick-release buckle on one side so you can more easily release the paddle shaft end of the blade.

Just think about your knuckles
If you add some fasteners to secure deck lines, just think about any place your knuckles might come in contact, and arrange them to not be in those places. You’ve probably thought about that, so I apologize if I’m just stating the obvious.

I agree with desertdave regarding securing the paddle float. It’s a great way to practice and learn. Gordon Brown, a BCU 5 star coach has a video for sale in the store on this site. In this 2nd video, he demonstrates paddle float assisted re-entry. A couple versions actually. I think the way he demonstrates it helps a lot. It lessens the reliance on the paddle float to a degree from having it solidly secured under your bungies and decklines, but it demonstrates how it can be quite useful if you’re not feeling too steady out there.

Deck lines
I remember in the assisted re-entry class the deck lines were very important for both the rescuer and the rescuee. I think I can use the existing hardware to run perimeter deck lines.

As for recovering from a capsize, I’m a solo canoeist who just started kayaking to be able to paddle in the ocean. I’ve become pretty concerned about my inability to recover from a solo canoe capsize and the dangerous situations I have put myself in paddling alone in big or fast water. The kayak has it over a canoe in that respect.

I’ve studied a couple of the roll instruction videos and I have a contact for a good instructor. I’m going to learn to roll. I got some impressive bruises from my first re-entry class.

Thanks for the input.

Original fittings OK
These photos show pretty clearly how I added perimeter lines to my Looksha Sport a few years ago:

I used the existing deck fittings and was able to simply slip the new line through the fittings along with the originals. I didn’t run my lines all the way up to the bow, simply because there were no handy fittings there and because that’s a relatively short section of hull anyway …

Hope this helps!


Even on a rec kayak
I added perimeter deck lines to my Emotion Glide, which does have x-crossed bungees, but not the usual fittings. I used nylon non-stretchable paracord - available at most outdoor stores for a few bucks.

My kayak doesn’t have external fittings per se. Its bungees are looped through molded holes in the polyethylene deck. So I didn’t have the ease of merely tying or threading on the line.

What I did was find strong nylon cable ties (used in electronics) that I slid through the holes to make a nylon loop. I then tied the new deck lines to those loops and it’s worked pretty well so far. Only broke one nylon loop once; all others are holding and I’ve put the pressure on the deck lines to test it out.

hold paddle
I also hold the paddle on when I do a paddlefloat rescue. Learned the more traditional form, not using a heel hook. Much faster for me to hold it on during the lunge, and then make sure my body is right on top of the blade for the part where I spin to get my legs in to the cockpit.

On deck lines on a Looksha Sport, seems getting something up front is the most important one for doing T-rescues and such. I’ve seen ones done where the line was worked into the front deck deck bungee fittings and also the front toggle.

Could perhaps do similar for the back deck.

I did as you suggest
and put a 3/16" poly perimeter deck line on the bow using the existing fittings. It worked great.

I’m now considering removing the rudder due to problems with my big feet, sliding foot rests and leg pain (see other thread).

How important is the rudder on the Looksha Sport?

depends on you
I paddled my Looksha Sport for a year or so without the rudder, after I snapped it off going over a pour over that I didn’t quite clear (snapped the bolts that held it on when the stern dropped quickly on the rock). The Lookshas do weather cock more than many other boats, but I think removing the rudder would help this some (a rudder in the up position does catch wind, making weather cocking worse).

Heal hook only works with some floats
I noticed when I use a heal hook and a small float I just pull the float under and the boat over. Since I think a foam float is much better and faster in cold water I use the standard paddle float rescue and only do the heal hook as an assisted rescue.

Your results may vary and I could be doing things very wrong given my level of skill.

A double-chambered paddle float
is what I bought for the heel hook re-entry. I also had trouble sinking a single chambered paddle float.

Check this out . . .
A way to keep perimeter lines taught for grabbing . . .

Twist bungee with perimeter line as shown.