Plastic Repair

A neighbor gave the kids a used Pelican Canoe, not sure of the model, has the middle seat. Realize this is a low end canoe, but hey it’s free and will be good for the kids to learn boat handling skills and to knock around in.

While in overall good shape, there is a small, 4 or 5 inch crack in the bow, just below the grab handle. I think these canoes are Ram-X plastic?

What’s the best method to repair? Figure I will drill a small hole at the each end of the crack to stop further cracking. Then patch. Will this plastic take fiberglass or should I expoxy in a plastic patch?

Appreciate hearing folks experience with repairing this kind of plastic.

try West Systems G-Flex expoxy
you can either epoxy the crack or fiberglass over it using the G-Flex.

epoxy repair
there’s a product made by …NorthSeaResins…kinda expensive but it’ll supposedly repair any plastic , even underwater.

another option is welding plastic

Plastic Weld
Considered that, but having never done it, am considered about the consequences of a screw up. I could end up making things worse!!

How To:
Tools - You are going to need a P-Tex candle, a metal scraper, and something (like a blow torch) to light the candle. If you don’t have a torch available you can use a just a household candle. BIC lighters are not recommended because they are not suppose to be lit for over 30 seconds. You also want to be in a well ventilated area, these fumes will get to you.

Light the candle. The fine art of a good P-tex is not having carbon in it.

Carbon is the little black flakes that you get in your melted P-Tex. They cause a bad bond are not good when you are repairing your boat.

You can use your metal scraper and back roll the P-tex candle on it to eliminate the black carbon in the ball of it. When you have a clear ball you are set. Don’t let the flame get big and yellow or you will end up with more carbon in the ball. If this happens you will have to start over to get the carbon out of the P-Tex before you start.

When the ball is burning blue you are doing well. It is easiest to keep the ball blue by keeping it very close to the surface you are working with (the scraper or the base of the board.) It takes some time but the ball will slowly drip.

The trick here is to drip the P-Tex to the side of the valley you created with your razor blade. This will allow the drips to bridge to the far side. This will also allow the liquid P-Tex to puddle to the highest point over the middle of the scratch. If you let it roll over on both sides then the P-Tex won’t fill the valley the first time and you will have to go back over the scratch a second time.

After dripping the P-Tex, let it cool to the touch. Take your metal scraper again and using either forward or backward strokes to scrape the excess P-Tex off. If one direction is giving you a washboarding effect try scraping the other way.

Hmm? hadn’t thought of p-tex repair. I’ve done p-tex welds on skis, so maybe

Haven’t tried on a canoe but …
… should stick great (try a test on inside under deck area first for confidence in adhesion), if you aren’t concerned about repair being visible , after you drill the holes at each end cut two patches out of suitable thin material (countertop laminate is tough and thin for flat only area), hold patch to area and scribe around it , tape off just outside scribe , scuff heavily inside taped perimeter , sterilize with alcohol , retape over tape , apply Liquid Electric Tape semi thickly (hardware store item - black color , contains methl Ketone and Xylene) , stick patch to black gue quickly before it sets up (hold presure a little while), later when dry remove tape , color to choice and draw a design on patch … do same to inside but forget the design , lol . … monitor the repair for awhile , if you don’t like it scrap it off but will be difficult … patch should be about an inch bigger all the way around crack …

my best tool is duct tape. I wouldn’t
do it either and prefer taking it to a professional at $45.00 hour.