Plastic stern repair - need help

A real “duh” moment…I recently noticed that due to dragging my kayak up & down the launch ramp, that I had worn the stern down considerably. I have an old Pungo 120 that I really enjoy for fishing/floating so I want to save it. It hasn’t worn all the way thru and doesn’t leak yet, but I can feel what must be the last thin layer of plastic. How can I best repair this - Cheap?

You may not need to repair it if you
can remember to stop dragging it. That portion of the stern should get little wear from normal landings.

One approach to repair would be to find a plastic welder who would add some poly to build up the stern. Another would be to get the thickened version of West G-flex Epoxy and follow instructions EXACTLY about preparing and flaming the surface. You would have to tack on some side dams to keep the epoxy in place, and then push the stuff down between the forms. It will adhere well enough to poly for fixing a spot that does not flex much. I think the epoxy will cost less than $20, and you can probably borrow a propane torch for the very brief heating needed.

But use the boat without draggin the stern and see if you can’t get in the habit.

depending on how much material (thickness) is left on the hull …maybe the best option would be to custom make a rub pad for it and then epoxy /screw it to the boat.

Once had to repair a whole fleet of rental boats with the same damage. We found some aluminum tracks that fit over the hull and screwed and glued them in place. They could drag the boats anywhere they wanted after that.

A quick repair
Use the Adhesive Rec’Repair, specifically the 3x10 inch patch as a rub patch in that areas. It will cost you less than $10, but will need to be periodically replaced.

And stop dragging your boat.

an ounce of prevention …

– Last Updated: Dec-28-09 9:14 PM EST –

...... is worth a pound of cure , or maybe even a couple pounds in this case ??

There , that was helpful wasn't it ??

If I could only practice what I preach , I'd probably make out much better too !!

proper fix…
weld it. a well executed plastic tig welder will fix better’n new. Find a pro and it’ll cost $20+ have ‘em build up a grunge layer and STOP draggin’ your boat.


remember reading that cross link …
… polyethylene won’t take a weld , is that correct ??

Linear polyethylene welds up ok though ??

Yep, the Dagger isn’t linear poly so can’t be welded.

Once it’s worn thru it’s shot pretty much, not much sticks to poly. Might try West resin’s new epoxy that’s supposed to sorta stick to poly.

Bill H.

is an easy way to go. It is used for ski base repair. It comes in several different forms. I use it with great results. Google P-tex, there is a lot of info.

Best luck, Tom

on second look
I went to The West System site to check out their Kayak Torture video. I’m get’n some G-flex and drilling holes in my boats.

that’s what grey things are for

Toco’s right.
I have used p-tex candles to fix up some issues and it worked pretty well.

had one o those
cut a peice off a poly cutting board that was sized to the yak , countersunk a few holes and used waterproof pop rivets. Worked with it another 2 yrs. an then the shop closed .