I bought a used QCC 600. Love the boat, but the carbon fiber on the inside floor of the cockpit is beginning to wear. There are loose ends which stick in my skin, which is mildly painful during the paddle and remains irritated for a day or two. Has anyone else encountered something like this, and if so how did you fix it? I am thinking some type of coating would help, but not sure what to use or how to prep the surface.
You can coat the areas with epoxy…
Clean, dry, brush on, wait a day and paddle…
West Systems epoxy. I started a spot in my CD Solstice that needs a good coat. I may thicken the epoxy a bit so I’ll never need to do it again.
In my Kevlar canoes the manufactures painted the bottom. I don’t know what kind of paint they use. Don’t try to sand the Kevlar It will make it worse.
In my 22 year old boat, my heels were starting to wear down to the Kevlar fabric. I used the WEST SYSTEM 105-K Fiberglass Boat Repair Kit | West Marine and glassed in a 24" square piece of fiberglass to cover and reinforce the area. The kit had everything I needed and was easy to use. Doesn’t look like a factory job, but it’s not visible from the outside and works. I can always add more epoxy if needed in the future, but the repair will probably outlive me.
Clean the area to be repaired thoroughly and then wipe down with acetone. Allow to dry completely.
You could give it a thin coat then sand and coat again.
The epoxy exposed to UV light will photodegrade over time. On fiberglassed wooden boats you varnish or paint it for UV and scratch protection. Might not be much of a problem in the foot area of a kayak cockpit.
Did bottom of my Extreme 10 years ago below and in front of the seat. Epoxy looks like the day I did it. Now I need to coat it with some yellow interlux 2 part epoxy so it looks professional. I fractured the bottom on DUMBASS kayak launch with rollers. I could have used clear West Systems hardener at the time if I knew they had it. Clear hardener is much more money.
I painted the area around the point of wear with polyurethane paint, Interlux Brightsides, actually.
I used that because I didn’t want to ever have to do it again. Also because I already had the paint. If you have to buy paint I would suggest an auto parts store. Spray in truck bed liner would be great, it is incredibly durable and doesn’t get slippery when wet.
If you want to epoxy it; check<a href= [
Raka, Inc. 772-489-4070, Epoxy-Fiberglass-Carbon-Kevlar
http://www.raka.com
](https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwiF5eLzxYHyAhU5RjABHXPSAZAQFjAAegQIBRAD&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.raka.com%2F&usg=AOvVaw3FIHRTyUXUoR8nsegy697G)>Raka, you can buy a gallon of epoxy there for what West sells a quart for. I’ve built five boats with it and not a problem yet
<a href=https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwiF5eLzxYHyAhU5RjABHXPSAZAQFjAAegQIBRAD&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.raka.com%2F&usg=AOvVaw3FIHRTyUXUoR8nsegy697G>Raka
Fuzz is from wear…
Clean , epoxy, lightly sand, epoxy again…squeeging thin coats each time to cover the “cloth” . You don’t have to cover with varnish or paint but its would help.
Thanks to everyone for the helpful replies. I ordered some epoxy and cloth as the heel area is rather worn as well.
If there are areas that are significantly more worn than others, like where your heels have worn the hull, it’s a good practice to cut smaller pieces of fiberglass for these areas. Glass these in and before the epoxy dries, then overlay the entire area with fiberglass cloth and epoxy that in.
Have everything ready to go as the working time for most epoxies designed for repair have fairly short working times.
The epoxy working time is indeed short, especially for a few ounces of the stuff in a cup. I am happy with the finished result. Thanks again to everyone who contributed.
One tip is that the more confined the container the more heat is created and the faster it goes off. If you can spread it out, say in a tray or dish the longer you have to work it…
They make a slow cure hardener it gives you much more time. They also make clear hardener.
Also chill resin before you mix it on a hot day.
Good tips above Mixing small amounts at a time keeps it from heating up as much. Use slow hardener in hot weather.
Keep mix shallow not deep container as stated above.