QCC's Q700X good for beginner?

tippy boats
My second boat was a Looksha 3. Looking back I would have called myself an ambitious novice as opposed to me now, an ambitious intermediate. It was much tippier than my 700. I never fell out and I took it to some wild places. It definitly improved (quickly) my paddle bracing skills. It was only after I bought an Epic 18 and 700 that (when I finally paddled it again) I came to the realization that the Looksha 3 was a tippy boat! It’s amazing what you can get used to. I sold the Looksha.

I don’t know how old you are, but if you think way back to elemetery school, jr. and sr.high, you may remember the different types of people. They were probably all great but some just seemed to be able to do every sport with ease while others stuggled regardless of the sport.

We don’t know you and don’t know your athlete ability or fortitude. My guess, being in the military, you probably have a lot of both.

I guess you can probably figure out which direction I think you should go.

The hunt is lots of fun!

Good luck

Franklin

Intersting views.
Again thanks for all of the advice.



Buying a good paddle is something I intend to do. The guy here gave me that same advice and it makes sence to me. Even if I don’t purchase a boat from him (only because he doesn’t carry what I am looking for) I will buy my accessories there.



Well I am 37 now and have been fairly athletic since I was a kid. Played soccer for 7 years was in martial arts for 5 years and the list goes on. Not tooting my horn but I always seemed to do better than most. However ever I never was the best at anything but did many things well.



As for plastic boats, ahhh! From what I have seen they tend to deform over time and the resale value isn’t that great. So if I buy a glass boat and decide to sell it at least I can get my money back. Correct me if I am way off here.



Hmmm. I do like the Solstice GTS… :slight_smile:

Getting money back

– Last Updated: Feb-19-08 8:35 AM EST –

Probably correct that a new RM boat will drop in value more than a glass boat. The deforming over time thing is not a big issue unless you store or haul it in a way that just leaves it no choice but to oil can badly.

That said, you keep returning to the idea of getting your money back. You will have more success at getting a high percentage of it back if you get a boat at a very good price, which is not the easiest thing to do with a new new boat. The only other way I can think of to get a good return would be to choose your boat based on what is hot and sought-after in your area.

A number of people here are really trying to save you some bucks, but frankly this doesn't seem to be going anywhere. So heck - get some boat that you think looks pretty and get on the water once it's warmer. You'll go thru the same thing as the rest of us and will end up with more boats or a different boat eventually anyway.

I'm not being cranky. It's just that this reads as though you really only want to figure out how to buy a new boat and do it now. IMO, that's not the same as the question of how to get into big water paddling. But that's just me.

Ballast
How do you add a ballast to a kayak?

EAT
donuts, cake , ice cream, deep fryed foods…etc etc



Best Wishes

Roy

For what it is worth:
From owning three QCC’s:


  1. Only you know your balance and only you can answer your “tippy” question.

    I bought my first one after paddling a two inch wider boat for several years.

    I bought it for a race, and it didn’t get to me until the day before the race. I sat in it for about ten minutes, and then the next day raced it thirteen miles.

    I have had it for five years and it has never ever felt “tippy” to me - Could be just me?


  2. I hate the Seal-line rudder with a passion. I am now an expert on changing out the broken cables, the broken adjusting screws and the broken gas pedal controls and the side brackets.

    I hate how delicate each of the thirteen pieces that make up each side are, and I hate that stupid “wedgie” thing at the rudder.

    I keep two boxes of parts in my truck, and I am going to work on adjusting two cables this Pm.


  3. I hate how the Seal line rudder sticks up in the air compared to most others that lay down on the deck. it won’t bother you unless you do a lot of creek paddling or mangrove tunnel paddling like I do.

    Also after an extended period, the rudder line keeper will wear out and the rudder will constantly fall down after you pull it up.

    (All of this rudder nonsense comes with several thousand miles on it, so you won’t have any initial problems unless you use the rudder pedals to brace off)


  4. I will bet that each of your water tight compartments will leak a spongefull of water if you are constantly plowing through big water.



    With all of this said, I love my QCC, and if I ever have to get a new boat, will replace it with the same.



    Maybe we can work on Phil to look for a new rudder?



    Cheers,

    JackL

And candy fried bacon

– Last Updated: Feb-20-08 11:37 AM EST –

We even had a recipe for that here lately. Yum!

I Started with QCC700
My first boat was a QCC700. On my first day I was out in open ocean water in 1 - 3 footers. I met a couple other paddlers out there and joined them. After a couple hours together they were very surprised to find out it was my very first time in a sea kayak.



But, the first thing I did in the QCC700 was capsize while trying to get in. I had no training at all. It took me about a half hour to get comfortable with paddling a sea kayak. The lesson here is that a beginner who uses a short demo paddle to determine which boat to buy will likely buy a boat that is too stabile for where their skills will be after some seat time.



If you are half-way coordinated, you will not have any trouble with a QCC700. In fact, I think a boat like this will stay fun for you as your skills improve.



My only regret was not committing to a wing paddle and full-time rudder sooner. I’m not saying this is for everyone, but if you do decide to head down this path, the QCC700 has the speed capacity to reward your aspirations for greater efficiency, speed and range.



I agree with Onnopaddle. Don’t get the SmartTrack rudder system. Onno’s system is vastly superior. It will take a little extra work and $$ to install the Onno system, but the results will be welll worth it.



If you want a rudder from the factory, then the Feathercrtaft system is a better choice for the QCC700. The blade is larger, the housing does not drag in the water, and the foot pedals operate with much less friction.

I have appreciated everyone’s input
very much and after weighing it all and careful consideration I have decided to take the plunge (pun intended) and get a QCC 700. Some have said it is to much and others have started with this boat and have done fine. I believe I fit into the latter catagory and will have fun learning even if I go for a swim now and then. So thanks again! With this decision I will start a new thread on recomendations for the boat. What people would have done differently to theirs if it was to be built again…

Get a used kayak first
My wife and I bought two used Seawards, an Endeavor and a Chilco. Unlike you, we had never kayaked before but I did my research after checking in with local dealers which used Kayaks they had for sale and then going online to do the reading. We had anticipated that we would be changing kayaks as we understand kayaking better. 4 years later, I am still very happily using the Endeavor and my wife just bought a Seaward Quantum because the only reason she didn’t like the Chilco was that it has a rudder that she never used.

Anyway, for reference, I’m 5’6 150# and my wife’s 5’0 110#. We go to all the local symposium every year to try out new kayaks but still love our kayaks that we spent very little to purchase.

I had also initially looked at buying the QCC boats, but I had absolutely no regrets trying out something else.



One advise if you are serious about kayaking, get at least an intermediate or intermediate-advance boat. You’ll learn to get good at kayaking very fast. I must have fell off my Endeavor half a dozen time initially, but now I can do a wet exit and get back on my kayak without a paddle float, it’s that stable.



Also don’t get too hung up on maneuverability, my wife has a the Chilco and it is a painfully straight tracking kayak, she learned to edge with Derek Hutchinson’s video “Beyond the Cockpit” and now turns the kayak like a dime. She tried using the rudder once when we first go the kayaks and never used it again.

I would not have understood how to choose a kayak 4 years ago when I first started even if I had tested 30 boats; my criteria for a good kayak then would not be appropriate now. Be open to kayak options, get a used good kayak and start having fun and refine your skill. You will change, so plan on changing kayaks when the time comes.

Good luck.

Add water to …
both front and back hatches until they are both filled. Don’t forget the day hatch if you have one.

get what you want
i bought a plastic perception eclipse and upgraded to a glass cd extreme within 3 months. even though the extreme (21 3/4" beam) felt a bit tender at first, i quickly grew into it and enjoyed every minute paddling it and improving my kayaking skills. I enjoy fast paddling, surfing waves, etc… and would find a beamy boat boring. However if one is into photography, fishing, or just chillin’ with pals, then a beamy boat may the way to go. if you’re ambitious and love the challenge, and are reasonably coordinated, get the boat you want - the one that inspires you - the one that you’ll shirk other obligations to sneak out on. and when you’re ready for speed and even more excitement, get a surfski and a wing paddle in your stable - they’re the bee’s knees!

Kayaking is a life long journey
I started off with a rec boat and after about a year of paddling mainly flatwater rivers I decided to try whitewater kayaking. I fell in love with it, but after a few years of paddling ww I started to like the idea of kayak camping on lakes and rivers so I purchased a plastic Necky Elaho sea kayak.



I’m also an avid cyclist, but became burned out of cycling all the time for fitness so I looked into fitness paddling and racing so I bought a very tippy, olympic style sprint kayak that I paddle regularly for fitness.



I now have seven very different kayaks. My point is that kayaking is a wonderfully diverse sport and the journey is just as fun as the final destination. If you’ve demoed the 700 and it feels right, then buy it. If you find another boat or a different type of kayaking you want to try, then try it. You can always sell your 700 and purchase another boat. You might lose money, but you’ll probably get your monies worth if you paddle a lot. The important thing is that YOU like it and that you will paddle it lots so as to get your monies worth.



I have some boats I would never part with like my first rec kayak or my beloved ww boat (pyrhanna micro 230). I have other boats that I intend to sell in the spring to purchase a faster sea kayak (epic 18x). I suspect I will always be buying and selling boats because there is so much you can do with these beautiful kayaks.



Anyway, good luck and welcome to the exciting world of paddling. Enjoy the journey!



Jamie

Easier with WW boats

– Last Updated: Feb-20-08 11:38 AM EST –

Empty out boat, put boat back in water, proceed to roll and scull with the drain plug still out. No pesky hatch covers to manage.

Thanks heavens for float bags or we'd have had to winch my WW boats out of the bottom of the pool several times now.

ballast-seriously
Adding weight low, on center, and roughly centered fore & aft will make a kayak feel more stable. The safest way to add weight is with water, because it becomes “weightless” if you capsize. Drybags make good water bags.



Bagged lead shot makes very efficient ballast if you accept the risks.



Just putting water in the compartments doesn’t work to add stability because the water is free to move.

If serious…
A weighted object, whether it be lead weights or a bag holding a lot of water, can create problems for me rolling up if it’s knocking around as I bring the boat up. I may just be too easily disturbed. But I have found that adding something as intentional ballast also means adding float bags or some other stuff that’ll tend to hold the ballast stuff still should I need to roll or do a deep brace.

Ballast seriously.
I hope no one took my previous post seriously. But then you never know for sure.



You can get diving weights that come in various sizes that are a mesh bag with lead pieces inside. For my Eddyline Falcon I just slid a couple under the seat. That is about as centered and low as you can get. If you can’t get them under the seat, glue on some rings that are made for inflatable rafts behind the seat. Then you can easily secure a variety of weights.

I didn’t
Same thought as you though - worth mentioning the float bags in case. I’ve seen people put loose heavy objects into boats as ballast who weren’t thinking about what would happen when things started moving around.