What is the best system for a Ford F-150 with a crew cab and a short wheel base?
I had a doublecab Toyota Tacoma in 05, and I used the Thule “T” thing that goes into the 2" hitch, and I put a single rail across the roof. (I had factory rails running fore/aft, so attaching the crossbar was easy. I really liked it a lot since it kept the bed clear. You would also need to get another rail and two “rail towers” for the cab.
If you are interested, I have the T-rack sitting in my house since I sold the truck, and I would be glad to part with it for a reasonable price. Was about $150 new, and now it’s nearly new- $50 plus shipping?
I also have 2 complete sets of the economy Thule saddles. I would be glad to take some pictures.
Need more info ?
Are you talking about one for over the cab roof or over the bed ?
I have a F-150 with a cap on the back, and I have three sets of bars on it, (one on the cab roof, and two on the cap roof) using Yakima landing Pads.
The ones on the cap are bolted through to the underside, and the ones on the cab use there hidden anchors, that don’t come all the way through to the underside of the roof.
They are rock solid, (like part of the truck) and I am very happy with them.
There is no crew cab with short wheelbase. Do you mean crew cab with short bed? (5 footer)
Thule site offers variety of options. I like the adjustable racks that install in the four existing access holes on the top of the bed. They telescope up and down, allowing you to get over the roof, or keep below the roof level for travel w/o yaks.
I made one for my F-150 out of
treated lumber. Worked great for several years. Yakima makes the Sportsman 300 racks for P/U and they are solid as a rock.
Spring Creek Outfitters…
have a truck rack. One for the roof with suction cups. The other is a rack that clamps onto the bed without drilling. When I bought the latter, it was labelled, “one tuff truck rack” . Pricey though. Telescopes up and down and has bars that pull out an extra 20" to accomodate multiple canoes. Very easy to use and put on…
has several. We have the one that fits inside the stake pockets. It adjusts to fit any truck and there is no drilling. I think if you are a Paddling Perks member there is a 10 or 15 percent discount. KK
For my Ranger I uses scrap 2 by 2’s and 2 by 4’s and some nails. I think the total cost was about $2. I expect it to colapse at some point but like many temporary fixes it just seams to last forever. Tonite I just got back form a 1400 mile trip and it has help up fine.
I would use new store bought lumber for a new truck. Most tuck beds already have holes where you put the uprights and wedge them in.
I will be hauling canoes
and I wasn’t sure if I wanted an over the cab rack or other. I was hoping with all of you out there with trucks that already have racks, I could decide what would be best for me. I just bought the truck. I have been hauling them on racks on top of my right-hand drive(I’m a mailcarrier) Jeep Cherokee or pulling them on a trailer behind my Buick Century. I could still pull the trailer with the truck, but prefer to have them on the truck.
Look at the T-Rac (nm)