Freya used skegs before she parted with NDK and joined the Epic team (whom she has long parted with as well).
Her opinion on rudders is shared by many long distance racers, when going from point A to point B, as fast as possible, is the main goal. Not everyone has that goal. Other people, who have fun with blended strokes, hanging draws, side slips, bow rudders, surfing, rock-hopping, etc, will have different criteria entirely.
Also keep in mind Freya went through several rudder failures on her Australia trip.
Yeah, Freya was first using skegged boats. Possible she had an add on rudder as well, there was a time when you could get them. But she changed sponsors and then was in ruddered boats.
I agree the angle seems unfavorable. But l think it is at least worth research.
Unfortunately Jim ( my now gone husband) drilled any holes to add those lines. Where they were needed, thinking maybe in the older NDK boats but not in my also older P&H. But l believe he just used a normal drill bit, a pretty small one. The line on our boats to pull the skeg is thin, l am thinking about the thinnest static line you can get from EMS in a store that carries climbing stuff. Guessing just a couple of mms? Somewhat conditioned by the stores you have locally, EMS is closest to us for static static line…
Seems to me he used used the same drill bit to drill the hole for the skeg pull line as he used to drill the hole in the rear cockpit bulkhead for the NDK boats (the p&h boat already had the hole) to allow for proper water pressure between the cockpit and the day hatch.
But honestly l don’t think it has to be too precise. As long as the little knot to hold it in there is not too big, that it isn’t going to get in the way.
Thanks BTW for making me think about taking off the Hullivator cradles. I saved a bunch of gas miles when l had to run back home for a funeral halfway thru my time in Maine.
Rookie, pick a line that is small enough for minimal drag, but not too thin to prevent grabbing securely or cut your finger, pick a matching drill bit and drill. Drilling is fast and easy. A tip is to cover both side of the skeg with masking tape (more of an issue with glass skegs) and use an awl or another sharp instrument to make a small surface indentation to prevent the drill bit from skating across the surface). Biggest decision is where to drill (lowest edge of the skeg that protrudes or almost protrudes when skeg is almost retracted) and don’t drill too close to the edge or it may break. No need to overthink this, it’s a quick 5 minute job.
