Repairing a Rip In Dry Suit

I have this dry suit I picked up last spring:



http://www.nrs.com/product/22502/nrs-extreme-drysuit-closeout



Only used it twice and the last time I got it out of the closet I found a rip in the leg. Being my first DS I could have cried! Have no idea how the hell that happened. A patch came with it but don’t know if it is heat activated or goes on with something like Aquaseal, which I ordered and am picking up tonight.



I did contact NRS but they focused on selling me Aquaseal and more patches and didn’t go into specifics on the fix. Anyone have advice on the best way to go about fixing this? I have looked at videos on line but if someone whose done something like this I’d love to hear a first hand account. Thanks for any help!



dougd

Peel and stick
Patches like the McNitt GoreTex repair or tenacious tape shown here https://www.mcnett.com/gearaid/gore-tex-fabric-repair-kit#15310 are peel and stick.



Smearing some Aquaseal around the edge, and on the inside of the tear is probably good.

Gore tex tape
I would try not to use aqua seal and just tape it. If you use aqua seal go sparingly, can put a piece of plastic bag on it and sandwich it between something heavy. Sometimes helps if you make the edges of the patch round, less likely to catch and get pulled off.

second the tenacious tape
I carry that and some 3M aluminum flashing repair tape for boat repair in my PFD.



Put the tube of aquaseal in a glass of hot water for a few minutes to make it flow better. A big rip can be stiches then sealed.

fyi: aquaseal and seam grip are the same thing.

Store it in the fridge, it will last longer.

Douglas, Douglas, Douglas.

– Last Updated: Nov-06-15 9:41 AM EST –

You sure you didn't precipitate that tear by ramblin' midst the bankside multi-flora rose brambles whilst looking for prodigal constituent pieces? I mean, you know how those riparian yard sales can send carbon fibre paddles and Hal's cooler on sneaky downriver escapes into the strainer piles. Or, maybe it was some clumsy-fingered rogue of a brute try'n to help you with that stubborn, catchy relief zipper? ("Help me out of these wet clothes and into a dry martini," as Bugs would vamp a little Mae West, n'est pas?)

Anyhow, seems as though the proceeding recommendations regarding AquaSeal, McNett's tape and seal (Hell, I remember when McCrea had me running to the Water Bed Shed to get some of their heavy duty patch kits and glue to fix air and dry bags!) seems to be the standard.

But, one thing that has me a little puzzled is often the prep directions for this procedure, which usually just mentions to make sure the fabric area to receive the glue be clean and free of oils. Well, since most "waterproof" fabrics are usually an inner PTFE derivative on the inside, but a normal polyester or nylon fabric exterior which is most often treated in a urethane-derivative DWR, as the industry fondly acronyminates (OK, a little Al Haig lexicon creativity in the verb department there), would it not be better to break down a little bit of that "durability" for the sake of better glue adhesion to the fabric? (In your case, the nylon of NRS's TriTon.) It just seems to me that the urethane or whatever poly-chemical coating makes it a bit more difficult to get a full tack, fabric-tight seal.

You could always retreat the patch area afterwards with a new water-repellant coating. But then, just how to go about such urethane removal without weakening the fabric per some solvent or abrasive action eludes me.

But then again, Douglas, what with your track-of-attacked record, perhaps it might just be better if your were to lay yourself down in a vat of G-Flex before each and everyone of your outings - NAY, each-and-every morn you arise!

Hang in there, my dear friend, and may all that which has been torn asunder for thee be re-stiched! (There goes Clarence Carter singin' in my head Patches.)

Thomas

Did you buy it from NRS?
I assume not or you wouldn’t be seeking repair advice, but if you bought it from NRS they’ll take care of it.