Replacing dry suit zipper: DIY?

Last weekend at Delmarva camp, the front entry zip on my Kokatat GFER drysuit self-destructed: both of the molded rubber stops at each end detached and fell off, so the pull came completely off track. It’s a 13 year old suit (inspection tag says 2011), but I’ve really only been using it off and on for 7 years. I bought it “used” in 2013 with a torn neck gasket – which I replaced – but it looked pristine, as if it had barely been used once by the prior owner. I’ve kept the zip clean and waxed and always rinsed the suit promptly after use and kept it hanging loosely over a wooden hanger in an upstairs closet. It’s in excellent shape otherwise – no leaks at all, seam seals are solid and I have replaced all the gaskets by now, so I hate to give up on it. I do have a second drysuit (same model a few years newer and the next size down) but this one has room for the extra insulation needed for colder water or conditions.

I’ve made and repaired my own gear for years so I’m thinking I would like to try to replace the zip myself. I understand that repair by a drysuit service outfit would cost me $300 to $400. Looking for feedback from others who have had this done or have done a DIY.

I doubt I could get a warranty repair since I am not the original owner and the suit is rather old. I do have a Stohlquist “drysuit” in good shape that my local outfitter gave me (it had been donated to their consignment department but is made of coated non-breathable fabric so it would be a nasty sweat bag to wear – likely why nobody bought it). But it has 5 intact untrimmed seals so I was going to recycle those. Wondering if I could also remove the zipper in that one and glue it onto the Kokatat. It’s the same length (28") but plastic coil tooth rather than brass. My understanding is that, though the plastic ones are not as durable, they are functionally better for front entry suits because the brass ones don’t handle wrapping around sharp curves as well (metal being supposedly better for the straighter line of a back cross shoulder zip). As far as durability, so far I have not tended to wear a drysuit more than a dozen times a year.

I can buy a new either a brass or plastic replacement zipper for around $150. Any recommendations?

Kokatat will repair or replace a zipper for $265 if not under warranty.

You could send it in for evaluation and see what happens. When I sent my drysuit in for a leak around the knee they determined that the GoreTex was delaminating and gave me a free replacement suit. I don’t recall them asking me if I was the original owner and don’t recall ever registering a Kokatat product. There is no identifying information on drysuits.

Age is not an issue unless it is normal wear and tear. I had a Gore-Tex Kokatat drytop that was 14 years old and all of the seam tape was coming off. I bought it for $40 in 1999 and only paid that little because it had been hung on a rusty hanger that had worn a small hole in the shoulder. A little Aquaseal fixed that. I asked Kokatat what to use to repair the seam tape and they replied that it sounded like a warranty issue and to send it in. A couple of weeks later I received a phone call. The suit was not repairable and no longer made. What color of drytop would I like for a replacement. They sent me a new Rogue drytop costing $450 at the time.

I would be hesitant to try a DIY repair on a Kokatat drysuit with a third party zipper. Price of a failed repair could be very high.

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Appreciate that information. Sounds like it would be worth the cost of shipping it to see what Kokatat can do.

I looked at that Stohlquist zipper and though it is the right length, it is installed in a wholly different way – stitching backed with seam seal tape. Really wouldn’t work in the Kokatat placket. And you’re right – I could screw up a still valuable suit in otherwise good shape by trying a DIY modification.

I only paid $400 for it so even $265 would be a better deal than $1400 for a new Goretex suit.

Additionally, I believe that there is an offer for a free evaluation for the drysuit on their web page with any other service that presumably will check for leaks and look for any problems with the Gore-Tex .

This used to be automatic and I’m not entirely clear how the signup works.

Thanks for the additional info. I just finished repairing the torn seam (some stitching gave way) on the left sleeve over-cuff on that suit (those old model sleeve and ankle over-cuff gaiters are outside of the gaskets and not part of the “dry capsule” of the suit) and found a box that I can ship it off in. Since I had to really work to burp it through the neck gasket when I last wore it, I think it is pretty intact but I wouldn’t mind a pressure test.

I’ll need to rinse it off (still has a bit of saltwater on it from last weekend), dry it and get in touch with Kokatat to get a return authorization/work order number to send to them.

Kokatat wants the suit washed before you ship it to them.

Rubber deteriorates when exposed to UV or to air pollution. I keep my dry and wetsuits in airtight plastic bags in plastic bins in my basement and far away from the furnace and gas water heater.

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Just washed it, usual cold water gentle cycle with Woolite and it’s draped over the basement clotheslines now. Chilly enough here that the heat is on so I opened one of the deflector vents on a nearby duct to circulate some warm dry air down there.

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When it’s wet, it should be easy to spot any bubbled areas that indicate delamination. If you find any, that’s a warranty issue and the suit will be replaced.

I shipped it to Kokatat Tuesday, prepaying for zipper replacement and requesting an evaluation. Awaiting their judgement on warranty status.