Replacing Rudder Cables and Hoses - Necky Arluk 1.9

About a year ago I bought a 1999 fiberglass Necky Arluk 1.9.

I need to replace both rudder cable hoses. But, they are glassed into the underside of the deck. I don’t think they are coming out.

Has anyone ever replaced a hose on an Arluk 1.9? How did they address this issue?

What size hose and cable is best?

I appreciate any comments and suggestions.

What do you mean by hoses? Pictures?

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I think they mean the housing for the cable.


They are the guide tubes that run from where the cables go into the kayak near the rudder to the rear bulkhead where they enter the cockpit. they keep water from getting into the rear compartment from the back deck, little though it might be, and protect the rudder cables from anything that might be stuffed into the rear compartment.

I have the exact same boat, but I’ve never replaced any rudder component. Very rarely use the rudder. What has happened to the tubes?

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Tubes are only about 2" long where cable enters and exits the hull. Cable just runs in a void sometimes created by seam in the hull.

Not sure on a necky but post a picture of entry and or exit points. Tubes is what diameter? Just big enough for cable to go in? You’ll need a swaging tool to crimp on the new cables and new swages. Two thimbles if you can’t reuse yours.


I should have posted photos to begin with. I hope these help . . .

On the port side, the hose no longer protrudes from the hole, so the rudder cable is grinding into the fiberglass. It makes a terrible sound. I need to fix this.

The starboard cable is 1.6 mm thick, but the port side cable is 1 mm and feels flimsy. Since I am taking the port side apart anyway, I will replace the cable too. The outside diameter of the hose is 4 mm.

My assumption was the hose ran the entire length of the void in the deck. I tried pulling on it with some needle nose pliers, but it does not move. If it is only 2", maybe I can clean it out and insert a new 2" section with some adhesive to hold it in place.

Let me know if you have any more questions. I appreciate everybody’s comments.

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Tubes are short. Probably if you grab remaining tube with the cable in it you’re squeezing the tube on the cable so it can’t move.

Tubing may have worn trough and fell off or loosened and the cable pulled it in the void.

Problem is to replace tube the cable has to pass through it so it has to thread through it. Then you needs eyelet at 5he end removed. Doubt you can split a tube and slip it around the cable and adhere it for a long time solution.

I’ll post some pictures tomorrow of Current Designs setup in the evening.

Pedals are probably Yakima sliders? Aluminum with small black rectangular pad?


I don’t see any markings on the pedals. They appear original to me, but lightly used.


You can use 1/4"od plastic tubing for the guide housing and a dab of RTV silicone to seal it to the hull. My Prijon has the tubing running from where it comes into the hull to the seat. Tom’s ( has grommets if you want to go that route.


I looked at the cable setup in my boat (probably for the first time in the 23 years that I have owned it). The cables run in a fairly hard plastic tube that goes from where it runs through the hull to where it exits above the bulkhead behind the seat. About ½" of this tubing is visible behind the seat. It is cut off flush where it begins at the stern and is not visible there. The cables do not rub on the Kevlar deck.

The guide tubing in my boat is glassed into the under side of the deck and is totally invisible. It is likely not replaceable, but at least they cannot move or drop down in the boat.

In your case you might try removing the cable and get some plastic tubing that matches what is visible on the other side and see how far you can push it in. Probably not far at all. Cut it so the length matches the good side. Then, using a piece of cable or other suitable object to keep it aligned use a bit of epoxy of other suitable marine grade adhesive and glue it in place. Be careful not to get adhesive on the cable. After is sets up you can replace both cables. Aircraft stainless cable is extremely strong and you do not really need a thick cable. These cables generally only break where they are constantly bent around something or twisted.

If you are considering replacing the cables you might want to consider replacing the sliding foot pegs with the more popular gas pedal types. I recommend the Sea-Lect foot pedals. You do not have to replace the rudder assembly. I do not recommend the Smart Track foot pedals. The way they route the cables causes the cables to fail much sooner.

My boat is Canadian built and may differ if your boat is US built. Necky was bought out by Johnson Outdoors a year previously and they built boats in both British Columbia and Ferndale, Washington for a time before closing their Canadian plant. They moved to Maine in 2009 and discontinued the Necky line altogether in 2017. I believe the Arluk model was discontinued around 2003.


The tubing is the kind of poly tubing you can buy at Home Depot. It used to be used to hook up ice makers.

Stainless cable in 1/16 or 3/32 is just fine, there is not a lot of pressure against them. The easiest way to replace them is affix a piece of strong twine to the cable, cut off the eyelets , and pull it through, making sure you have enough twine attached that it doesn’t also pull through, that way you can attach it to the new cable and pull it back into position.

You will be able to see how long the tubing was; generally it is just a wear protector.

Clear tubing will last about eight years, the black tubing has UV resistance and lasts longer.

I would also change the footpegs, I hate those sliding suckers.


Sea-lect pedals are great. About 85 bucks for rudder boats.


I’m a tiller kind of guy in sit-ins and a gas pedal type in surfskis.

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These responses are very helpful.

I haven’t used the rudder much. I might upgrade to the Sea-Leck foot pedals. Sounds like they are much more comfortable.

I am going to see if I can clean out some of the old hose. Maybe I can simply insert a 2" section.

I actually have a few things in my cart on the Topkayaker website. I need a spray skirt and a neoprene hatch cover.

Maybe this kayak is kevlar. The inside has the golden color of Kevlar. Maybe I will try to weigh it. Haha . . . the prior owner did not tell me and I didn’t ask. Is there any way to determine if it is kevlar? But, there are decals on both sides near the stern that say “Made in Canada.”

I appreciate the help.


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Looks like glass to me


If there’s a slight, raised ridge running down the center of the kayak on the inside, I believe that’s a reliable sign of a Kevlar build for the older Necky’s.

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If it’s Kevlar it should weigh about 42-45lbs. I think the only choices back then were Kevlar and fiberglass. Don’t know that the fiberglass model weighed.

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I just emailed the customer rep at Old Town with my serial number asking if he could provide some info. Hopefully I will hear back after the weekend.

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I received a response from Old Town first thing Monday morning.

Apparently, they don’t have much information about the Necky kayaks. But, he did say the Necky’s “had laminated Kevlar along the keel of all standard fiberglass layups.” He also included the clip from the brochure below.

So, now I am curious. In a few days when the weather is better, I will get my son to help me weigh the kayak. I think we will each stand on a bathroom scale holding the boat between us, then subtract our weight. Is there a better way?

That should work.
If you want to weigh it without help, you can put one end of the boat on a scale and the other end on a foam block (or similar) positioned so the scale and the block are about the same height. Also the scale and the block should be about the same distance from the bow and stern. Write down the weight and then reverse the scale and the block. Write down that weight, add the two and divide by two. For boats with more rocker, you may have to raise the scale and the block.

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