Resealing bulkheads

-- Last Updated: Mar-08-15 5:31 PM EST --

Need some tips for resealing bulkheads in a poly kayak. I'm planning on using Lexel based on previous readings here. Advise if this is wrong (or of any better alternatives).

My main question is: what is the art to applying this stuff? I don't think I can reach the bow bulkhead either from the cockpit or hatch side. What do I do, get my 7 y/o godson to crawl in there and do it for me? Seems annoying.

Lexel is the best
stuff, because it stays on and it’s flexible.Put one in my poly yak and yes, the word fun does not apply. Had mine upside down, bow hanging from tree limb. Anyway possible to get to the darn thing,and I was just installing one in the stern.Bow is a pain to do, but at least all you gotta do is reseal.A good tip I can leave you with is use mineral spirits (just dipping your fingertip in some) to keep the work smooth and neat looking. You’ll need it anyway to clean excess from kayak and hands.As far as reaching the bulkheads, just get creative, but the kid is a good start !

look thru

– Last Updated: Mar-08-15 8:05 PM EST –

3m is available for email or phone consulting

for better access, hang the yak on a wall then work with arms horizontal to floor at a effective arm/yak height.

Rotate hull for gravity enhanced application.

Lexel may be rebranded 3M

The tip I got
from the guy who does the warranty work att the local kayak shop,

Apply it (Lexel) to the kayak so it touches the bulkhead instead of the other way around.

I use Lexel

– Last Updated: Mar-08-15 8:22 PM EST –

I suspend the kayak up side down at a level so I can stand and reach into the cockpit or compartment,( I have four kayaks that I do)
I then use a head lamp which allows me use of both hands as needed.
Prior to using it, I clean the area with a brush using alcohol

Jack L

No art
What kind of kayak and why can’t you get through the front hatch?

  1. Clean, clean, clean the surfaces to be glued

  2. Roughen up hull where bulkhead has detached, 60-80 grit sandpaper should do it.

  3. Jam the tip of the tube or glue cartridge between bulkhead and hull squeezing all you can while moving steadily along. When done wipe mess into a fillet along edge of bulkhead.

  4. Don’t move kayak for 24hrs, 48hrs better.

Good, direct advice.

To answer your first question, my arms aren’t long enough to reach the bulkhead through the bow hatch.

What if You’ve previously used a silicon
I have a Perception Corona, about 13 yrs. old and once tried resealing the the rear bulkhead with a silicone calk that never stuck for long. I didn’t do my research beforehand, and wonder what my go from here actions should be. The probable reason it didn’t hold was I installed a backband and probably ratcheted more than the bond could tolerate… I have’t used the boat much for a few years because of this, even though I have NRS bags to keep leakage down if I was to tip over, which I do playing in Lake Erie surf. Any suggestions? thank you in advance…

JackL suggestion is good
Most manufacturers seem to just goop on smooth hull and outside the bulkhead/hull interface. Roughing up the area between bulkhead and hull as well as totally dry/clean seems to make the difference.

You left out model and type of hull/bulkhead.

I bet you can peel the silicone out
in one piece.

Apply Lexel in it’s place.

Fillet or glob, depending on who will be sticking their head in your cockpit.

I agree with Jack, judicious use of alcohol is always appropriate

Extension and position
The extension would be a yardstick or similar stick. The position would be UNDER your kayak, by setting it upside-down on sawhorses. Strange as it seems, you can reach in farther if you are below the overturned boat. An extension will give you whatever additional reach you need.

I did the above when epoxying deep toward the ends of a wood kayak I built. I needed to reach farther In than you do, and it worked.

cruiser forums

that works. The overall caution is sanitation. The silicone pick up with solvents is careful dabbing in a given area, then careful dabbing I a second area using clean paper towels or shop rags for each pickup.

The idea is do not spread silicone debris from one area to another. Debris and liquid control is essential.

When wire brushing or using solvents, masking the area is not too compulsive.

If you brush and wipe out 3-4 times, the next adhesive has a 50% chance of success.

Thanks, all. The deed is done and all went well. We’re now water-tight. And, if I must say, it even looks halfway decent.

…was the way to go.

Did my comment make sense to you now that you’re done? It was the advice given to me and I have passed it on to others as it made sense once I started doing the work. I have given others the same advice but not sure if they felt the same as I did.

I see what you’re saying. It’s easier to push the sealant from hull toward bulkhead to get good coverage/complete seal than the other way 'round.