QUOTE Peter-CA: “It is made of a single layer of polyethylene.”
In fact it’s made of Old Town’s proprietary 3-layer PolyLink 3 with a foam core, as Leob1 says. You know this from the photo—the interior is beige because it’s a separate layer from the red exterior layer. PolyLink3 is considerably stiffer than regular rotomolded plastic, especially the thin see-through plastic that Old Town uses today. Hence the 2001 kayaks were a better product. One important caution: do not puncture or crack your kayak! If you do, the foam will absorb water and you will never get it out. This happened to me and the kayak gained several lbs. (The damage was done by an auto mechanic who cinched down the stern strap so hard that he cracked the stern. Unclear why he was messing with the straps while repairing the starter?? The crack was repaired but the water was in there permanently.)
To restore the shine you can use 303 Protectant. It works miracles—but also makes the kayak slippery to handle for a while, so be careful not to drop it when loading it on your vehicle. If you need a large quantity of polish, Novus is cheaper.
Some people like to sand out scratches on the bottom because they slow you down a bit, but that could be imperceptible on a kayak of this weight. It’s not a speed demon. I buff out light scratches with 220 sandpaper and rubbing compound.
One reason people buy rotomolded plastic is that it can take some abuse without cracking, but it is a softer plastic that scratches easily. This is expected and over time you will stop worrying about it. But polishing the deck is worth the effort cosmetically.