Rhino Liner on your kayak?

I was wondering if anyone has ever tried spraying their kayak with Rhino Liner. I am thinking that it would be a wonderful way to protect the hull and bottom of your kayak from sratches, dents, and dings. I don’t have a truck, so I have never used Rhino Liner, but I did see a demo in which a cender block that had been sprayed with RL was dropped from 20 feet up onto a concrete slab and it didn’t have a mark on it!!!


Good idea, but…
If all the whiners that say their boats are too heavy to lift onto their vehical would actually have a reason to whine if they did that. Would add too much weight. Plus, you have to spray it on hot… Don’t think that the boat would take that abuse very well…

Paddle easy,



– Last Updated: May-06-05 5:56 AM EST –

Coffee, I am like 100% in agreement with you on this one! :)

Even if it works, think about it... Instead of having scratches on you kayak, you have scratches on your rhino liner. What's the difference? It certainly isn't about actual protection for the boat. Heck, I have a used whitewater boat that's got about 6 years of hard paddling in on rocky runs. It has its scratches but I can tell you it's got a lot of paddling life to it, probably another 6 years or more if I keep it that long.

Most rec boats don't see anywhere near the amount of use and abuse as white water boats. The cost of getting a rhino liner is probably the cost of a perfectly usable used boat, albeit with scratches.



I drag my boat over pavement of all types, sand, rocks, anything between my truck and the water. Still paddles great. I woundn’t sweat a few scratches.

i had the same type of idea
Same thing but different application.

I had that idea for aluminum canoes, but not for the outside, the inside. Help traction, reduce noise, help with hot and cold (if you got it in a nuetral color). If you don’t portage the canoe then weight isn’t that big of an issue.

rhino lining
whether you portage a canoe or not, adding extra weight makes it no picknic to load/unload. Rather than the cost of Rhino lining, I’d rather get a used fiberglas canoe if weight is no object.

Truck beds NEED the protection
from scratches/dings to prevent exposure of bare metal which will rust. Your boat will not rust or be damaged in any way by scratches etc.

If you want a “pretty” boat, go buy a yacht and you’ll look like a million bucks :wink: Kayaks are meant to be used.

Too heavy
Also, some spray-on liners have a rough textured surface. I doubt that would make a good hull interface with water.

If it’s a plastic boat you are worried about, there’s no point in Rhino-ing it. Plastic is already very tough. If it’s a composite boat, you are just going to make it heavier than if you’d bought a plastic kayak at half the price.

not sure it would stick that well either
also the boat bouancy might not be well. The sprayliner stuff is heavy.

Liner material on a hull
Might allow you to experience the “rock magnetism” of a Grumman canoe, but without the noise.



bottom coat
I mixed graphite powder with epoxy and applied it to bottom of my hull of my wooden kayak and it made it slick and durable.

Won’t Stick…
he has a poly boat. Might tried that on my S&G, if I ever get around to re finishing it. Right now, deep gouges where the wood shows get a coating of 5 min epoxy. Quick and easy. :slight_smile:


Skid strips
The usual mix cited in www.kayakforum.com contains epoxy, graphite powder (for slickness), and silica powder (for hardness).

A couple of months ago, I made some pseudo-skid plates/strips at the bow and stern keel ends of my wood kayak. I masked off the surrounding area with two layers of blue painter’s tape, sanded off the varnish in the open area all the way down to where the top coat of epoxy was, and then applied 4 coats of the mix. When it dried, I sanded it smooth, waited 2 weeks for it to cure, and then put the painter’s tape over it while I lightly sanded the rest of the varnish (for revarnishing). I varnished both the skid plates and the rest of the kayak.

I have no idea yet how much protection it will provide, as I am trying very hard not to get any of the boat scratched at all. (Yes, I know, this is an impossible goal.)

Mike and Rikki wrote that they had given up on varnishing the hull, period, because it was easier to just fix up the epoxy than to go through all the varnishing also. Might be worth considering in some locations…just not here in high-UV land.

I would love to put on a hard 2-part LPU instead of varnish but cannot bear the thought of covering up the wood grain.

LPU comes in clear too

2 Part LPU
is what is covering my paint, or my paint over the LPU? Well, all know is that builder use two part LPU. :slight_smile: