I recently drove a new kayak from it’s point of manufacture to it’s new home. As this was a considerable distance, the manufacturer was worried that the straps, over time, might mar the still pristine gelcoat. As such, we placed some thin minicell foam (I later switched to microfiber cleaning towels) between the boat and the straps. Later, while loading my boat back on the rack after a trip to the Apostles (pretty awesome btw), this happened when I tugged on the end of the strap that was protruding from the cam buckle to tighten it up
. The end of the strap I was tugging on just pulled off of the rest of the strap (and I really wasn’t pulling on it with a lot of strength). Just glad this was precipitated by me in a parking lot rather than bumps and vibrations while traveling on the highway. So for both reasons, I am now thinking about switching to rope for my tiedowns and am wondering if there is any particular type of rope that works best for these types of applications (I am thinking something with minimal stretch and with a soft exterior so as not to abrade the gelcoat. Also, any opinions on what kind of knot would work best to snug the loop that goes around boat up to the rack (wondering if a taut line hitch would be OK or would it be problematic that the free end isn’t under tension)?
I use pretty cheap rope, and as it starts to show signs of slight deterioration from weather/sunlight, I replace it. A braided poly rope that has a soft, flexible feel works fine. Others here can recommend some really high-quality stuff, with which you can’t to wrong.
For knots, you absolutely can finish with a taught line, but for what you describe, a finishing knot that is flush with the cross bar, a taught line has no advantage over two half hitches. I finish with two half hitches, but that’s AFTER I’ve included a trucker’s hitch so that cinching it down is more effective.
The whole set up, is to start with two half hitches on the ‘dead’ end of the rope, tied flush to the cross bar, then go over the boat, around the bar on that side and back up a little ways to where you have “flipped in” the the “pulley loop” of a trucker’s hitch, then back down to the same bar to finish off with a flush-tied two half hitches. For better “locking” of the tension prior to tying the final two half hitches, I wrap the finishing end of the rope around the bar one time first. Then, for ease and convenience of working with the THREE passes of rope that are now all in contact with each other below the trucker’s hitch loop, I tie off the two half hitches by running its two wraps around the whole bundle instead of trying to thread the needle to wrap only the “home” line. It works fine.
@Rookie said:
@Monkeyhead. Just curious: how old were those cam straps?
Good point. The decision on whether to use straps or rope shouldn’t have anything to do with how strong they are. A rope that’s as old as that strap appears to be would have failed too!
Yeah, the strap was a few years old. I don’t recall how many but definitely past it’s prime. Another factor, I believe, was that whereas I always open the cam buckle before tightening the strap, the guy I bought the boat from while helping me load it just pulled on it (with the buckle closed) and thinking that that was an easier way of doing it, I adopted that approach for several subsequent on- and off-loads. I now believe that pulling the strap through the closed cam buckle was sort of shredding the fibers, already somewhat compromised by age.
The faded colour on the surface of the strap is very noticeable when comparing it to the core colour where it broke.
I have seen a lot of red plastic going brittle or weak when it was faded by sunlight. I have absolutely no scientific basis for saying this, but I think that red is the worst colour one could pick for plastic items which are exposed to sunlight. Of course this will probably depend on whether the plastic is PP, PE, ABS, PVC, etc., but since I don’t know the composition of the red plastic have seen break down so I just try to avoid all types of red plastic.
I prefer 1-1/2 inch wide NRS cam straps over line even though I can tie a secure knot. I would argue the greater width of even one inch straps over contact area of line distributes stress over a greater area and thereby is more kind to your hull. I do manage to keep metal buckles from direct hull contact. Both straps and line are cheap compared to value of load and safety of other cars behind you. Inspect and replace that gear before it causes issue.
I’d like to second what Andy has said about the 1 1/2" NRS straps. I’ve been using them for years and they are clearly tougher and longer-lasting than the more common 1" straps. Upon seeing them for the first time a friend commented “wow! those look like seat belts”. The 12’ long ones are the right length for the canoes that I typically carry.
Peter
As noted above - the fade of that strap is quite noticeable. I have a couple of less robust straps like that, but for quite a while the red ones end up living on the back of the boat as the tail for traffic. I just daisy chain it to get the right length. I have one yellow one of that kind of thinner build, but that usually goes over the neo cockpit cover for long trips (said cover is also clipped into the bungies up front).
My blue Thule and NRS straps are thicker than the more generic red and yellow ones, and seem to be pretty tough.
@Allan Olesen said:
The faded colour on the surface of the strap is very noticeable when comparing it to the core colour where it broke.I have seen a lot of red plastic going brittle or weak when it was faded by sunlight. I have absolutely no scientific basis for saying this, but I think that red is the worst colour one could pick for plastic items which are exposed to sunlight. Of course this will probably depend on whether the plastic is PP, PE, ABS, PVC, etc., but since I don’t know the composition of the red plastic have seen break down so I just try to avoid all types of red plastic.
Red has less carbon black for UV protection
I have several sets of straps and ropes. All need to be periodically replaced-but they can last years if not left in the sun and if rinsed after salt water (and oiling the cams).
Depending on boat shape is my usually decision. Sit on tops tend to leave most of the strap to vibrate in the air-so tend to only use rope. Canoes leave almost none to vibrate, so I often use straps. Beside vibration, cams can slip on straps, so they do have an extra failing point.
I keep an eye tied on my ropes (with a figure 8 knot). Then I use them just like a loop strap, going through the eye and securing with 2 half hitches. Reversing direction helps with tightening the loop (just like a loop strap). Bow line uses a truckers hitchto make a loop with the tie down point (usually thread the boat with the eye on the other end-most of the time this line just stays tied on the boat). Then fasten the tie down loop with 2 half hitches to the truckers hitch. I usually secure the tail with a tent taut so it does not fly arround.
I have been tying my boats down with three strand 1/2" twisted nylon rope for many years and there has been absolutely no erosion, or any marks of any kind and I’m still using the original rope I started with. The rope I use is specifically designed to resist wear and is very soft. It is dryer rope used on paper machines. This stuff just never wears out and is very gentle on gel coat if you keep it clean. You can buy this type of rope at just about any marine supply store.
It is easy to splice eyes and crowns in this rope and it does stretch under extreme tension, but that should be of no concern for tying down a boat. I would put a loop around a crossbar–figure 8 over the boat and a double half hitch on the bar right next to the loop. Do not cinch the boat down too hard, or you will risk spider cracking in the gel coat eventually. Tie it down firmly and use fore and aft lines to prevent it from moving forward, or back. Always double and triple check those lines especially, because if they come loose and you run over one, it will ruin your boat.
Fwiw, was once told not to cross straps. When you snug down, it is a binding point, potentially giving a false sense of tightness that will work itself out on he road causing loose straps.
I’ve been using Thule straps with J-cradles for 6+ years with no obvious degredation. I also use ropes for front / rear bumper tie-outs, with a simple taut-line hitch to secure.
I had a set of padded canoe thigh straps made from that same red webbing. Total junk. UV ruins that stuff very quickly. I’m guessing every time you handled that strap, your fingers would get pink from the dust coming off the threads. Try tearing it like a piece of paper - I’m betting it rips easily.
Spend the extra dollar or dollar fifty per strap and buy yourself a couple of blue NRS straps. If you’re a typical paddler who only uses the straps when carrying a boat to and from a trip, they’ll probably never wear out.
I have a variety of straps. I sorted through a few until I found ones that didn’t have too much Xtra strap hanging past the buckle. Just happened to be red. I had no idea, nor would i have ever thought that there was a difference in quality or longevity or susceptibility to UV. I think I got the red ones at REI. They’re made by Riverside.
Although I’ll use cam straps on occaision (mostly on the bow end of a kayak on my rack) for the most part I use lines for the tie offs that hold my canoes and kayaks tight to the rack bars. These lines stay on my bars so they are always ready for use. I use a truckers hitch as described earlier in this thread.
Over time I’ve dispensed with cheap line – nylon stretches when wet, many cheap lines don’t handle well and can be difficult to tie knots with, their resistance to UV can be questionable. These restraints are keeping your boat from flying off the roof of your vehicle, being cheap here doesn’t make sense to me.
My solution was to answer the question, “where are lines used that get wet, are UV exposed, and require good handling properties that make tieing knots easy?”
Sailing - the low end of sailing line is very, very good line. Double braided polyester is my choice and I’ve been very pleased with its performance. I’m surprised I don’t see more boaters use this on their racks. The 4 lines that live on my rack cost me about $32, far less expensive than any boat I own.
Here’s one source for high quality line: http://www.apsltd.com/new-england-ropes-sta-set-line.html
I> @Waterbearer said:
Although I’ll use cam straps on occaision (mostly on the bow end of a kayak on my rack) for the most part I use lines for the tie offs that hold my canoes and kayaks tight to the rack bars. These lines stay on my bars so they are always ready for use. I use a truckers hitch as described earlier in this thread.
Over time I’ve dispensed with cheap line – nylon stretches when wet, many cheap lines don’t handle well and can be difficult to tie knots with, their resistance to UV can be questionable. These restraints are keeping your boat from flying off the roof of your vehicle, being cheap here doesn’t make sense to me.
My solution was to answer the question, “where are lines used that get wet, are UV exposed, and require good handling properties that make tieing knots easy?”
Sailing - the low end of sailing line is very, very good line. Double braided polyester is my choice and I’ve been very pleased with its performance. I’m surprised I don’t see more boaters use this on their racks. The 4 lines that live on my rack cost me about $32, far less expensive than any boat I own.
Here’s one source for high quality line: http://www.apsltd.com/new-england-ropes-sta-set-line.html
That is the place to get quality rope that will last for years. Cheap never pays.
I have always used NRS Straps. A couple have been retired because of UV damage but they have served me well.
Got a couple of Yakima straps that came with racks. Not so good.
I killed the cams on some straps with salt water. I am using some woven rope that looks almost like my big boats anchor rope (accept smaller), but got it cheep at a local hardware store (so much lower load rating. Think it is about 1/2" 6 strand. Since I did all my anchor and mooring lines lines, I took my time melting the ends and whipping them so they should last pretty much forever.