We are in a semi drought in New England, with little rain and no storms. Likewise, a dearth of waves. A cold front did pass over yesterday, dropping our record warmth back to normal day temps oflow 50s. The front also generated short period, 5/6 second intervals, sloppy choppy waves. Not good for long rides but great for practicing rolls and braces. So, lemons for lemonade.
With cold conditions around the corner, i appreciate opportunities for rough water practices and play.
Mahalo!
-sing
Does the height of ocean waves influence wave speed in a consistent, measurable way?
Today’s wind waves were steep but sloppy and disorganized, with not much umph or speed. Really, just good for a low key practice to stay loose with the hips, work the brace and the (offside) roll.
Stronger and faster swells come from long duration storms and disturbances where wind energy has greater time to be imparted into the water. I am a liberal arts guy, so my grasp of the science is superficial (like today’s wind waves). I play better on the wave than at trying to explain them. For a better and more accurate explanation, better scientific based articles can be googled. Here is a fairly simple one from Surf Line:
https://www.surfline.com/surf-news/the-importance-of-swell-period/1555
-sing
Thanks. Very imformative. I notice on my last trip that the waves heights were below what I typically experienced for similar wind speed and direction. I assume it had to do with winds that were building as the afternoon progressed, rather than winds that were sustained overnight. Being in the range of just over 12 inches, they were only traveling about 5 mph, so it was easy to overtake them. Waves over 18 inches seem closer to 6 mph and taller waves seen to hit over 7.3 mph to 8 mph. I’ll read your attachment more closely. Looks informative.
Play action video from today:
-sing
It is very informative information. Thanks for sharing.
