We are in a semi drought in New England, with little rain and no storms. Likewise, a dearth of waves. A cold front did pass over yesterday, dropping our record warmth back to normal day temps oflow 50s. The front also generated short period, 5/6 second intervals, sloppy choppy waves. Not good for long rides but great for practicing rolls and braces. So, lemons for lemonade.
With cold conditions around the corner, i appreciate opportunities for rough water practices and play.
Mahalo!
-sing
Does the height of ocean waves influence wave speed in a consistent, measurable way?
Today’s wind waves were steep but sloppy and disorganized, with not much umph or speed. Really, just good for a low key practice to stay loose with the hips, work the brace and the (offside) roll.
Stronger and faster swells come from long duration storms and disturbances where wind energy has greater time to be imparted into the water. I am a liberal arts guy, so my grasp of the science is superficial (like today’s wind waves). I play better on the wave than at trying to explain them. For a better and more accurate explanation, better scientific based articles can be googled. Here is a fairly simple one from Surf Line:
https://www.surfline.com/surf-news/the-importance-of-swell-period/1555
-sing
Thanks. Very imformative. I notice on my last trip that the waves heights were below what I typically experienced for similar wind speed and direction. I assume it had to do with winds that were building as the afternoon progressed, rather than winds that were sustained overnight. Being in the range of just over 12 inches, they were only traveling about 5 mph, so it was easy to overtake them. Waves over 18 inches seem closer to 6 mph and taller waves seen to hit over 7.3 mph to 8 mph. I’ll read your attachment more closely. Looks informative.
Play action video from today:
-sing
It is very informative information. Thanks for sharing.
Another passing front generating a lot of wind and little precipitation for drought relief in New England.
Ocean is stirred up again with 4’ plus sloppy chops in the 4 seconds range. Cross cutting north winds from 18-24 knots. Decided to defer my play to tomorrow when winds turn more off shore.
-sing
Small, 2.5’ winds waves in 6 second intervals. Very clean though with an offshore wind. Mellow but productive session as I was able to dial back in more reliability back to my offside roll. It’s a confidence boost to know I’ll likely come back up, if needed, from either side.
Pretty chilly this AM, just above freezing. Nor’easter surf sessions are coming soon enough.
Mahalo!
-sing
Surf line is forecasting true swells in the 10-11 second range rolling in for Friday. That would be nice for a TGIF surf session. 
-sing
Brrr, good on ya!
I’ll bet the water temps are well on their way downward as well.
I’ve got no toleration for the cold anymore.
Went from Minnesota COLD (where I forced myself to find open water at least once a month in the winter), to Seattle area, much less cold (and a fierce Winter surf), to here (Jax,FL), where, cold to me is in the 40s (air).
Our water temps is still in the low 50s, which I consider pretty warm. I remember going to Santa Cruz surf comp in March, with a 4/3 wetsuit, for the 50 water temp. The locals thought it was “cold” but I was sweating under my wetsuit. I had just left New England where water temp was still in the 40s.
The human body is an amazing adaptive organism. I am used to (and prefer) the colder temps (air and water). I actually find surfing in the summer harder because of the strong sun and higher temps (I almost always end up with a sun/heat rash after a long session).
You paddle daily in (higher) temps than I am used to or care for. Of course, you get to paddle WAY more because it doesn’t freeze! (Your discipline helps too.) I guess if I were go south, my body would find a way to adapt (maybe… LOL!).
I am just really looking forward to surfing this year’s nor’easter season, especially with the better cardio I have because of the heart valve replacement.
-sing
Seriously rough conditions today: 8’ plus waves in the 7 second range, and a cross (north) wind of 20-28 knots. NOT stuff to play in.
Be safe.
-sing
Aw come one, You can do it. 
Well, today is a little better with waves of 8’ plus at 8 seconds, and winds of only 16-23 knots. But, not enough to tempt me out. LOL!
Now that I am retired, I just don’t have the sense of “urgency” to get out whenever waves show and to push my work schedule around to fit a surf session in. The luxury of more time affords more options and likely better choices (for health and safety) for when to go out. Now that I have gotten to this point, I should probably be a little more careful to stay and surf a little longer. 
Tomorrow is supposed to be much better with 5-6’ waves, at 10-11 seconds, with offshore winds. Will have to wait and see. I got time.
-sing
disadvantage of age: loss of strength and other ailments
advantage of age: wisdom
I remember, years ago, when learning the surf, it was ‘safer’ to use a whitwater boat than a seakayak.
In a heavy surf, there was a pretty good chance that I would be able to get out through it (- but then would have to come back in).
In a WW boat in a heavy surf - you just would not be able to get out through it (unless there was a nearby rip).
I have to admit that I have been surfing my longboat a lot more than with my waveskis this year. A big reason is that I can get through the impact zone with more speed and less work than would be required with a waveski. I find waveskiing takes way more stamina and conditioning from me than the longboat. On a bigger day, it is a test of rolling and bracing skills as well as persistence to get to the outside of the break zone.
I am ok with just chilling a bit in the surf zone using a long boat. Wisdom. 
-sing
Catching that “last wave…”
https://www.surfer.com/news/friends-mourn-champion-surfer-joe-roland-after-tragic-death
Condolences to the family. Death comes for all of us. I hope his last wave ride was marvelous.
Aloha.
-sing
Still sizeable with waves near 8’ but with intervals lengthening to 9-10 seconds. Winds have turned diagonal (NW) offshore at 15 knots plus. Still a bit bigger than I want to take on with my current conditioning. Will see how quickly it will drop as the morning goes on.
-sing
Today was at or beyond my physical limit. Sets of 5-6’ waves were coming in at 11 seconds. Offshore west wind of 12-16 knots were stacking up the wave faces. Took me over 9 minutes of chest and face smacking minutes to get outside of the break zone. Caught 2 and a half rides and called the session. Enough adrenaline for the day!
Mahalo!
-sing
