Sea kayak rudder controls

I always considered the purpose of a skeg and rudder to improve tracking - one being passive and the other active. While a rudder can serve to turn a boat, that is more by crutch than design. I alluded to it in previous posts but will state now, at least as far as the Wilderness Systems Tsunsmis are concerned. The 145 is a stable kayak that’s easy to track and turn through edging (for me, edging to maintain track only takes minor input but constant hip action, while edge turning requires a more aggressive and pronounced appproac). I gave up relying primarily on paddle strokes for directional control in favor or edging. The reason is that “I” found it more useful to rely on paddle stokes for propulsion and edging to effortlessly correct tracking. When I revert to old ways, the lapse shows up on my speed graphs as a more jagged spike range between high and low, while proper form and techique is flatter and more consistent.

On the other hand, the 175.Tsunami (similar design) is a handful to keep on track without the rudder. The 175 is designed to turn, while the 145 is designed to go straight. While the 175 does track straight in calm conditions, significant wind, waves or current will confound every attempt to track straight without reliance on the rudder.

This is what happens when you have a two point failure, in both the attachmnent, and the raising/lowering lanyard. First time for me. I love the boat, but would feel more comfortable if it would respond better to edging.


Back to canoes. I actually agree with davbart, in that at least avid canoeist are typically more skilled with paddle control. Casual paddlers don’t push adventure.

Forum discussions about paddling technique are puzzling. While anyone admitting to using a long paddle in a kayak is widely condemned as a rube, yet in other discussions, it’s considered chic to use a double sided paddle in a canoe. I’ve never done so, and I have no desire to try because I feel my single bladed technique is up to the task for a canoe. Still, I would never use a single bladed paddle in a kayak. Given the unrelenting attacks specific to low angle induced yaw and the extra effort required due to an excessively long paddle, I wonder how double paddle canoeing escapes the same criticism.

The dicotomy doesn’t stop there. Consider how manufacturers constantly evaluate and drop product lines that are unpopular (discussion about why kayak offerings are geting shorter as years pass), I’m curious why paddle makers continue to offer 250 and 260 cm paddles, when most paddlers seem to recommend 210 to 220 cm paddles. Are there a lot of closet kayakers using 250 and 260 cm paddles. After all, the 240 cm paddles are often in store items.

It was quite a bit of work. I did finally get the NovelBee rudder controls installed in the Perception Shadow. I fabricated an adapter plate that dropped the mounts by one inch, giving me just bare clearance at the deck for the toe section of the pedal. Unfortunately, the main part of the pedal lands on a part of my foot that is quite uncomfortable. Just below the ball of my foot. Bear in mind that I have to wear booties to fit in this kayak in the first place so I feel everything. Size 13 feet don’t make kayak selection easy.

I am now in the process of restoring the sliding rotor pedals. At least they were comfortable. I will use them reversed and see if I like using it this way. If I don’t, I’ll just sell the boat and stick to skegs in the future. The other day I took out a skegged boat and was reminded about how simple it was.

I should mention that the NovelBee foot braces are very nicely made. If my feet had fit I probably would have been quite happy with them and I do appreciate the suggestion.

250 260 still used on Viking ships.

:laughing:

1 Like

Clever, do you have any suggestions on how to equip my 175 Tsunami, or are you just offerings ideas without solutions?

I think the 250-260cm paddles are for fishing SoT kayaks with elevated seats, and canoes. The 230-240cm paddles are for wide recreational kayaks and inflatable kayaks.

Using a double-bladed paddle in a canoe doesn’t require you to paddle at a lower angle than a single-bladed paddle. If you select the right length and blade, you should be able to paddle it the same way once you get used to the different top hand grip. Except you’ll do a lot less C- and J-stroking. Downside is a huge ass expensive paddle.

1 Like

Throne kayaks.

1 Like

I guess different strokes for different folks.

1 Like

I guess it’s not stranger than another current thread about using a single blade paddle and kneeing in a kayak. That makes me feel less intimidated by so many experienced paddlers schooling me about “the pwoper use a pwoper wength of paddle for a pwoper size kayak” that isn’t sat upon wather than sat within, nor used to catch fish. Maybe I just don’t know how to paddle. My first paddles was a 220 cm, then a 230 cm. I felt more comfortable with a 240 cm, until I bought the 250cm. I like the 250cm best.

It does sounds avante-garde, so maybe I could try a straight paddle in a kayak while kneeling (also hard on my knees), or a double blade in my canoe. I feel so decadent. What am I missing, and why do I feel so "out-of-mainstream logic?

I guess that’s a big as they come?

Edit

Bigger :muscle:

Bigger isn’t always better, unless you know how to use it. Most paddlers seem happy with 210 to 220, maybe around 212 to 218, while most are overwhelmed by 230 cm. Bigger isn’t always better. I like 250, but might be just as happy with 249 or 251 cm. 250 seem right. It’s about 4 oz heavier than 220 cm, thays 2 oz per side. But I don’t lift the paddle the paddle over my head and mange 72 to 80 spm. What am I going wrong? I thought about changing length, until I matched my speed that I could hit 15 years ago. Now, Im not sure what to do? How can I go faster!?!?

Simple get a bigger blade and keep the same stroke rate you’ll be faster.

Throw in some roids :laughing:

Until you go anerobic and speed drops off. That’s why speed graphs have wide high/low spike.

So I guess you hit the wall on speed.

I don’t believe I have. I hit the target speed of what I could do when I was in my 60s, but then I was going out at least weekly and had a number of weeks with multiple trips. I haven’t been able to get out consistently once a week so far this year. My logs show that I paddle at least once a week, I make gains of .05 mph each trip. Two years ago it took 20 trip to go from 4.2 mph avg over an 8.5 mile course. Last years I only reached 4.71 mph avg over same course, but I hit that five trips, then didn’t go out consistently and remained around 4.6 mph avg for 20 trips. This year I’ve only been out around 10 times, due to other commitments, crappy westher, a broken seat on one kayak and a broken rudder on the 175 Tsunami, and four of the trips were with others sight seeing at 2.8 mph; not good for training. I had one good power trip with Craig, and still managed to hit one trip with 5.03 mph avg, which was my goal. No, not nearly done with progress yet, because I did manage to go back out after three days and found I could at least match performance. After my shoulder recovery, I needed a full week between trips to feel recovered. I need a regular schedule of one trip every five days to see consistent progress. I reached my goal, but not the final destination.

I attribute that progress to consulting with @szihn, and @Craig_S, as well as comparing paddling info with @Onski326.

Yes you’ll be faster at 79.

Which is my hope.

Hope and dream! :laughing: I

You mean evolve. I hope and dream in a recliner. I evolve and improve using a GPS and paddle in a kayak and use positive feedback from people I trust and respect. It works.

We all fade sooner or later just like Jack LaLanne

Then you find another way, or just give up.