So now that the P-net community has solved all remaining mysteries surrounding turbulent boundary layers and wall shear, let’s see if another physical phenomenon will fall to the awesome depth of knowledge out there. The question is this:
Under what conditions will a wave begin to shoal?
I have heard and read several theories, but none that I ever felt were really solid.
D
Some Concrete Examples
The Wedge
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fwHuJh-gk9U&feature=related
Boomers
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=830oOK_CK2o
Blacks
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V2GmjZh5_Qw&feature=related
here are a few sites I refer to
http://www.surfline.com/surfology/surfology_forecast2.cfm
http://oceanworld.tamu.edu/students/waves/index.html
https://www.meted.ucar.edu/loginForm.php?urlPath=marine/mod2_wlc_gen&go_back_to=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.meted.ucar.edu%2Fmarine%2Fmod2_wlc_gen%2Ffetch_wave_growth.htm