Shortening a Lendal shaft?

Can anyone suggest a good way to shorten a Lendal straight carbon shaft from 220 to 210 or so?

I might just trade it in for a shorter one if it turns out it would be difficult to do at home, but since I got a very good price on it, I want to see if shortening it is a DIY job.

Have not looked carefully at how the lock system works - if anyone can provide a link to a drawing of it, that would help.

Got lots of tools and know how to use them -:wink:

Lendal paddles use epoxy
to bond shaft to blades.

A friend of mine shotened his paddle by taking it to a kayak manufacturer. He heated up the end of the blade/shaft junction with a torch and carefully brought it up to about 80C (using a digital thermometer) to soften the epoxy enough to slide off the blade.

He cut the end of the shaft with a very sharp drop saw and reinserted the blade onto the shaft.


I wanted to do the same to my Werner paddles but apparently it is not bonded with epoxy and he could not do the same (tried thought…).


4 piece - no epoxy
The paddle I have is a typical 4 piece Lendal. The blades are not epoxied to the shaft. The shaft is just two tube pieces, open on both ends, so that’s why I thought it would be easy to shorten. The only concern I have is if thre is anything inside that is related to the locking mechanism? If all the mechanism is in the paddle blade pieces (as it seems it is), then it should be no problem…

end size is larger than the rest of the shaft…look at your paddle. if You just cut off the end…it will NOT fit.

trade if You can…it will be the best solution

Best Wishes


Thanks, will check the ends
tonight with the micrometer to see if they indeed change diameter inside.

I did not think of the ends being wider, since on the outside they appear to be the same as the rest of the shaft. But I have just been eyeballing them and I might be wrong…

I was thinking of this also
the open end of the ferrule does appear to be the same size… so trim that and drill a new hole…

I would also try to trade it, sell it or keep it, and get a new shaft.

Try here for a new shaft

Thanks - that’s where I got mine
and it was even a few $ cheaper at the time. I might just get another and sell mine - it is still pretty much brand new and I will not be out by more than a few bucks…

You want to know how the lock works. with the key, turn the screw aprox 1 1/2 to 2 turns out(not too far or the clearances will stop you)…then using the protrusion on the back of the key/wrench, push the button in until it clears the inside of the shaft…push it toward the open end , using the key.

The allen side is just made the right length to continue pushing the mechanism out with.

careful when you get it almost out…cup the two sides as you clear the barrel of the shaft. ITS SPRING LOADED…things can fly

every thing then just is able to be taken apart for cleaning or replacement.

put it back together and slide it in carefully so the button is lined up with the hole…they are made to take apart in the field…

Best Wishes


Thanks - if I can do that
Did not know how to do it - being able to take out the mechanism for maintenance is good to know.

Can’t shorten - here’s why
It appears that the junction sections on each end (b/w the two halves of the shaft or b/w shaft and paddle blade) are of the same internal diameter as the rest of the shaft.

However, the external diameter on all of the above is bigger than the center sections of the shaft. This means the ends of the shaft are reinforced (e.g. thicker). Therefore, while I could just cut and use, it won’t be strong enough most likely)

3 for 2 deal -:wink:
The good news is that if I buy a second 210cm shaft, I am pretty sure I can combine pieces of the two and get either a 210, 215, or a 220 cm lengths with only two shafts -:wink: Not as good as convenient as the adjustable length I suppose, but lighter and if a half breaks I have a spare …