Hi folks,
I have my first boat with a skeg - a VCP Argonaut. I've been having a problem with it, and since I'm not sure of the system, I'm not sure where to start.
It won't retract into the boat, and the slider bar won't budge more than an inch either way. Watcha think??
Thanks for any advise...
Stuart
My Daughter has a Dagger Blackwater
with a skeg small flotsam is constantly getting stuck up in the slot. On her’s I untie the cord and let it drop away and take a screwdriver and clean it out.
If it is attached with a nut and bolt, it may just be too tight
Not hard…
There are basically two moving parts, the cable and the blade. If the blade is not jammed by debris there is probably a kink in the cable from landing without first raising the skeg. Loosen the cable at the slider then pull the skeg down to check out the cable. You may be able to unkink it if not replace it.
You just have to remember to raise the skeg when landing and not drag the stern on a skeg boat.
It’s not rocket science, good luck.
speaking of skegs, anyone see this:
http://www.kari-tek.co.uk/html/skeg_systems.html
I am waiting on a Valley boat in production in Knottingham…I contacted this company to see if they would be interested in puttin it in my boat that is being built,no e-mail from them so I guess they were not interested…after looking at their website it appears they are more Nigel Dennis Kayak oriented.
Nevertheless it seems like a product that deserves some study.
The more I progress in sea kayaking/control/etc. the more I feel that skeg and rudder are best avoided—easy to say, hard to do.
K.I.S.S. 
Rope Skeg
All three of my skegged boats (Valley, NDK, Necky) have rope skegs. Easy to use and maintain. Does not kink if landing deployed. Easily field repairable should something happen.
Sometimes simple solutions can be the best.
Agreed!
The Kari-Tek systems seems like an overly complex solution to a simple problem. I can think of a lot better things to spend $400 on (it’s nearly $600 if you have them install it).
IThe necky wire skeg is interesting
anybody have experience with it? Does it need an unconventional routing?
On the other hand…
…rope skegs don’t work very well to begin with, don’t allow for very precise setting in use and are generally unreliable. It’s a good thing that they’re easy to repair in the field, since you’re probably going to have to do so on a regular basis.
I own boats with both and IMO, cable skegs are vastly superior in function. Cable kinking typically only occurs if you try to force a jammed skeg down, which is something you just learn not to do.
BTW, with most cable skeg systems it’s possible to replace a cable in the field in about five minutes, as long as you carry a spare and the proper allen wrench.
For some, I know
However, I’ve found the rear rope skeg in my Aquanaut to be reliable and useful. Thusfar in three years of use it has caused no problems. I’ve found it easy to deploy and adjust as needed and to retract.
Though I’ve known some who have had issues with Valley and NDK slider skegs, the slider on my wife’s P&H Vela seems solid snd reiable.
Going hydaulic for a skeg seems like overkill.
Necky wire
Peter, I have retrofitted an Impex, and a Valley Avocet with wire purchased from Necky. It’s an exotic and expensive alloy that can’t be purchased in small quantities (at least that I’m aware of). I did have to slightly straighten the tubing to accept the wire, but it works great, and ZERO issues with kinking. As I recall it’s about $50 from Necky?? BTW, as far as I’ve been told Necky has had zero failures with this wire…zero! I suspect cost keeps others from exploring this approach. I personally have no problems packing around the wire in the rear hatch…just not an issue. After using it in several boats, I’m done with cable.