Friends car only has 48" wide cross bars and we would like to use the car to transport two solo canoes one is a royalex Vagabond the other a Bell Merlin. Not very wide canoes but too much for the 48" bars. Trip is only 80 miles each way. I was thinking of using my kayak hull raiser for the royalex canoe. Anyone try this with a canoe? Wenonah doesn’t know and neither does Yakima. The only thing that worries me is the canoe catching too much wind on end. But thought of using it bottom side facing out.
if it is a Yakima rack
You can buy black metal or galvanized pipe at Lowes or HD and slip it through the 48" bars. For a temporary thing, you can just use a solid pipe cut to the length you want. Put a hose clamp on each end to keep it from sliding out (better yet, use two just to be safe).
I’ll try to take and post some pics of my more permanent and adjustable set-up. I could describe it. But looking at a picture or two is easier and would make more sense than my description.
Longer bars
Bars are fairly cheap, I’d recommend just getting longer bars and be done with it.
Clarion’s idea works well.
I copied his idea, and made a couple of changes. I use the galvanized rigid conduit as a splice and sections of Yakima x-bar for the extensions. And I modified hairpins to lock the pieces in place. I too will try to post some pics.
Jim
Not my car…
– Last Updated: Mar-26-07 12:03 PM EST –
so really can't tell my friend to buy new long bars. She really doesn't want them anyway as it will extend 9" each side on a small car. My car is in the shop with perfect sized bars at 66" and can't use it.
Please post the photo's I'm sure I am not the only with with this predicament....wish someone has had experience with the hull raisers looks promising.
I would be leery
if the boats are lightweight composites. Are you thinking of cradling the huill with the HullRaisers (hullfacing up/out) or with the gunwales in the “J”? (down/in)
If you have to purchase the HR’s, and this is not going to be a forever situation it would be much cheaper to go the pipe extension route.
Jim
Already own the HR
because that is what I use with my kayak. The royalex Vagabond was what I was intending on using in the Hull Raisers with hull bottom facing out. Wenonah had no issues with the integrity of the boat being damaged but thought the wind would make it a problem.
I’m looking forward to your pics
Sounds like the idea I have in mind for hopsing/ness’ setup. I figured on using the pipe as a splicer attached to Yakima bar stock. That way, hopsing can put his Shearwater on Yakima gunnel thingies and ness can take the extensions off when it’s her and her kayak.
here are my pics
– Last Updated: Mar-27-07 6:23 AM EST –
everyday set-up:
http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2983610090043436830bgYXKv
Extended for when I haul 3 boats:
http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2956365430043436830RVxric
close up of clip:
http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2448262360043436830ycedVi
Even with my pipes extended, I still have around 16" inside the Yakima bars. (I know it doesn't look like it from this pic, but my bars extended do not go past my side mirrors.)
Like I said, for a quickie set-up, just run solid pipe (to desired length) through the Yakima bars and put a hose clamp on each end.
The ability to do this with Yakima is what keeps me from using or recommending Thule.
My biggest concern
with an open canoe is that it catches far more wind than a kayak. Do you trust the HR’s for highway speeds with a giant kite? One advantage to carrying canoes gunwales down is that a certain amopunt of airflow is directed up and over the hull by the shape of the vehicle. Having a boat on edge might cause massive turbulence.
I will go on record as being against the idea, but I have only a “gut” feeling on it.
Jim
there’s certainly that, and …
– Last Updated: Mar-26-07 5:56 PM EST –
An open boat cannot resist sideways compression the way a decked boat can.
Unless the thwarts fall where the cradles are located, I'd be concerned about tightening it down.
Very nice!
Thanks Clarion that’s easy and certainly inexpensive solution to the problem. I’ll go to the giant depot tomorrow and pick up 4 - 24" galvanized pipe, drill a hole and find that clip you’ve got or figure something else to use. Where did you get that clip?
I have to agree with both of you on the concerns of wind and the canoe on those HR’s. It was Wenonah’s concern as well. Yakima didn’t flinch much about it.
couple tips
– Last Updated: Mar-27-07 6:28 AM EST –
I got the clips at Lowes. They are in the metal drawers with all the specialty hardware odd 'n ends.
Wrap duct tape tightly around the junction of the two pipes before drilling. This prevents them from moving while drilling. Then, drill through both pipes at the same time.
Also, rotate the pipe inside the Yakima bar until you find the orientation where the pipe easily slides in and out. This is the position you want to be in when you're finished drilling.
Good luck (not that you'll need it).