I stumbled across this source while looking for components to build wire mesh hoop houses (to keep the deer and other critters from using my garden plots as salad bars again this summer.) As a retired electrician (and amateur plumber) I’m pretty familiar with stock tubular connectors but there are many instances where those trade parts don’t have handy options for the angles needed in 3D constructions. Many of the fittings these guys sell would be useful for building boat racks and carts and their prices are better than what I have paid for similar parts from fencing companies. The black plastic 1/2" to 3/4" split shims they sell for 10 cents each are more convenient than having to saw, slice and trim 3/4" pipe scraps. These can be used as push on clips to lock mesh or plastic fabrics over a 1/2" PVC framework or to adapt 1/2" cross members to fittings on 3/4" main structures. I had bought a box of 200 steel “broom-clamp” fittings for 3/4" pipe for a few bucks at a Habitat Restore so using these shims will allow me to use them on both sizes of PVC. Their site has a gallery of various project ideas.
I’ve been noticing them on pop up’s but haven’t considered the potential applications.
Looks like framework for an outside tent to store kayaks while managing ventilation. Also appears to have substantial anchor brackets.
Since I’ve brought up using PVC for boat racks, I want to mention something that I don’t believe that everyone is aware of about UV exposure and PVC. Plumbing PVC (white in smaller sizes, grey in larger diameters) has a thicker wall per OD size than electrical conduit (to withstand pressure) so people might gravitate towards it for building frame structures. But, unlike the grey electrical PVC pipe, plumbing PVC it is NOT formulated to be UV resistant and will eventually become discolored and brittle with reduced impact strength with exposure. Since PVC conduit is often used in exterior exposed applications, like service entries and in industrial installations, it is made to be UV resistant.
I was a factory rep for Carlon (major PVC conduit manufacturer) for a couple of years so I knew this anyway, but it occurred to me as I started this topic that it wasn’t common knowledge.
A coat of ordinary house paint will protect PVC.
Does it need a primer or soecial primer, like Zinsser Bulls Eye 123 or Kilz? Does it hold up reasonable well to abrasion or is it best to put foam protect the painted surface?
Never a problem for me. I always painted any outside white PVC with acrylic house paint. House painters do this all the time. Sticks well enough but haven’t used it for a high abrasion situation. 123 would possibly make it more bulletproof for a sliding surface. Myself, I would not bother priming, would just be sure pipe was clean with a wipe of acetone or alcohol first.
Per @Coaster, our well head is a PVC pipe sticking out of the ground and I painted it to avoid UV degradation. I just used exterior house paint from a can I had lying around.
I’m a reasonably skilled wood worker… metal not so much.
